Maxspect ethereal

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I get that small buzzing sound from the AC plug, I did open a ticket and got a replacement but still does the same.
I was recommended to use an iPhone AC plug so that work to stop the sound.

You can turn off the moon light by lowering all colors to 0%.

I did the same thing got a replacement from them and it's the same thing so I am doing the same running a iPhone adapter on it
 
I just turned off the fan light, I don't have a shot yet with the tank running LOL!
20161208_181922.jpg
 
Does anyone's cooling fan ever come on? I have yet to see my cooling fan run in six weeks of running these lights. It is winter so the house is around 70.
 
I did the same thing got a replacement from them and it's the same thing so I am doing the same running a iPhone adapter on it

I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one, this is a little bummer but so far I'm happy with these lights and I hope I don't find any future problems and reject selling my Kessil.


Does anyone's cooling fan ever come on? I have yet to see my cooling fan run in six weeks of running these lights. It is winter so the house is around 70.

Mine does but is very quiet and I notice goes on for short periods of time when I run the light around 80%.
 
Glad I found this thread. I have a 66g from SC Aquarium 32 x 24 x 20 how may Ethereal would be recommend for this tank.
 
I use 3 ethereal on 150 gallons. I currently use a preset program start 7:00 am et finish at 22:30. This preset reach a pick of 90%.
Do you use preset? Or custom program?
 
Review after half a year: I wish I didn't buy it.

1. It's UV channel is dangerous. One time I raised it by 10% at peak, and it burnt half of my tank. It was my bad that I didn't test for PAR when doing the change. Later I did test it, I found that, raising other channel by 10% raise PAR about 20~50 at 6" depth, but raise UV channel from 80% to 90% raise PAR by more than 80. Now I kept that below 70% at peak to be safe.
2. The sexy looking mount is actually very inflexible in practice. Because the angle of the arm is set, rising the light will also push it towards the front of the tank. My tank surface is 30" x 18". In terms of power, it's capable to give full coverage of the whole tank at peak. But that requires it to be mounted at the highest point of the mount. Unfortunately, that position also push it literally on top of the front glass. It's front edge is actually out of the front glass, and the back, where the top of rock is, is very dim. And if it's mounted lower so that it's in the center of the tank in its depth, it will be too close to the water than produce significant hot spot in the top middle of the tank. So now, I mount it at the middle level, put it on about 70% at peak, and have 2 Kessil A160WE, which I happen to have around, to cover two corners. For that setup, I wish I bought a A360WE at its place and it would do a better job and cost less.
 
You burn sps right? So can you tell the level of nutriment when you burn it?
 
Review after half a year: I wish I didn't buy it.

1. It's UV channel is dangerous. One time I raised it by 10% at peak, and it burnt half of my tank. It was my bad that I didn't test for PAR when doing the change. Later I did test it, I found that, raising other channel by 10% raise PAR about 20~50 at 6" depth, but raise UV channel from 80% to 90% raise PAR by more than 80. Now I kept that below 70% at peak to be safe.
2. The sexy looking mount is actually very inflexible in practice. Because the angle of the arm is set, rising the light will also push it towards the front of the tank. My tank surface is 30" x 18". In terms of power, it's capable to give full coverage of the whole tank at peak. But that requires it to be mounted at the highest point of the mount. Unfortunately, that position also push it literally on top of the front glass. It's front edge is actually out of the front glass, and the back, where the top of rock is, is very dim. And if it's mounted lower so that it's in the center of the tank in its depth, it will be too close to the water than produce significant hot spot in the top middle of the tank. So now, I mount it at the middle level, put it on about 70% at peak, and have 2 Kessil A160WE, which I happen to have around, to cover two corners. For that setup, I wish I bought a A360WE at its place and it would do a better job and cost less.
Wondering what depth is your tank? I have this led and don't have a problem with it. My peak is 70%blue and 50% uv on a 20in tank. I wish I had a par meter. My Sps seem to be growing fine but there not really bright in color. Wondering if that's because of the light.
 
Wondering what depth is your tank? I have this led and don't have a problem with it. My peak is 70%blue and 50% uv on a 20in tank. I wish I had a par meter. My Sps seem to be growing fine but there not really bright in color. Wondering if that's because of the light.

It's 30"x18"x18". I mean the light is not that bad, I'm still using it. It's just that its mount limited its usbility. It could have cover my whole tank if it can be mounted in the position I needed it to be, and free up the two A160WE on it's sides. Keeping UV low is smart choice. I'm just disappointed that they allowed such dangerous channel exist on the fixture. It's like a noob trap. They should change some led from UV channel to blue ones.
 
NO3 is 0.5 at that time, with red sea test kits. PO4 is the lowest number the kit can read.
I use my ethereal with one of preset programs until july 2016, i never had this kind of problem. YOu very low nutriment level, in case of ULNS you need to keep your Alk beteween 6,5 and 8 max. in case of your Alk is more than 8, the risk is to burn your coral. You can use Fauna marin color element to prevent this king of effect.

look this article, they talk about the burn
http://reefinabox.com/right-alkalinity-coral-growth/
 

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