Meanwell ELN-60-48P help needed

[Mawnkey]

I started messing with this balast without reading the instructions, thinking I knew which screw was used to regulate current. Well I read the instructions online and I messed with the wrong screw

its the one I'm pointing at. How do I fix it guys?

 

[bmac16]

No that's for your voltage, you want the teflon screw on the side of the metal cover in the corner of the driver. Be gentle screw is fragile. I think you need a meter to make sure you are at the right voltage

 

[Mawnkey]

Yea I messed it up. What voltage am I looking for? And what setting on my voltage meter do i need to find it?

 

[cparka23]

The data sheet says that this screw is used to adjust voltage output. But since this is a current source, the voltage will vary with the load.

Got a multimeter? You may have to wire it up with some resistors and get the current set. Then you can wire it up with LEDs and measure the voltage across the wires coming from the driver. If it's not driving the number of LEDs that it should, you can turn up the voltage screw. That's how I'd tackle it.

 

[KJAG]

Agreed on those meanwell potentiometers being fragile. Twisted mine too far once and easily broke it. Had to send it back.

 

[Mawnkey]

Awsome guys yea i have a meter. So what if i turned both Tue current and voltage all the way down and adjusted it slowly until I get my target voltage (35.2 for 11 leds, and 41.6 for 13 leds) also my voltage meter is kinda strange it doesn't have the broken line with the dots it just says dcv and then it gives me the numbers 2 20 200 and 300. I imagine set it to 200? Thanks for the quick responce

 

[cparka23]

Yea I messed it up. What voltage am I looking for? And what setting on my voltage meter do i need to find it?

The voltage is supposed to vary with the load, so it's not straightforward to tell you what to set it to. The driver can support 24-48V, and the screw is used to adjust it between 43.2-52.8 V. I am guessing that the data sheet means it adjusts the high range of the voltage between 43.2-52.8V.

Look up the forward voltage of your LEDs. Say you have enough LEDs to require 45V, but it's not lighting them all (or they might be blinking). Then you'll have to adjust that screw 'til they're all running. You can then check the voltage across the two wires coming out of the driver to the LEDs. Use the --- symbol to measure the voltage.

 

[boxer]

Awsome guys yea i have a meter. So what if i turned both Tue current and voltage all the way down and adjusted it slowly until I get my target voltage (35.2 for 11 leds, and 41.6 for 13 leds) also my voltage meter is kinda strange it doesn't have the broken line with the dots it just says dcv and then it gives me the numbers 2 20 200 and 300. I imagine set it to 200? Thanks for the quick responce

yea thats it. mine shows the way i explained but diff meters say diff stuff, but yea set it to 200. But i believe you should turn the voltage all the way up to 48v then adjust the current to wat ever you want i set mine at 750ma I have the same drivers as you so im going to check mine and see wat voltage it is set at.

 

[cparka23]

As boxer said, DCV is the correct setting. As for your plan, it sounds ok. 1st set the current to your final value, then the voltage. Dont turn up the voltage all the way. It adjusts past 48V, so it's not going to be set at the 48V at the end of the pot's range.

 

[boxer]

As boxer said, DCV is the correct setting. As for your plan, it sounds ok. 1st set the current to your final value, then the voltage. Dont turn up the voltage all the way. It adjusts past 48V, so it's not going to be set at the 48V at the end of the pot's range.

+1 thanks cparka for clearing that up.

 

[Mawnkey]

Okay so current first then np thanks guys I was freaking out about this

 

[boxer]

lol!!!!!! sweet

 

[Mawnkey]

Thank you guys so much

 

[Mawnkey]

The voltage is not going anywhere close to 48. It's staying at 30.1 anyone know what's going on?

 

[cparka23]

You could have a short. Turn off the driver and do a continuity check at each wired solder pad to the heatsink. Most multimeters have a setting where it'll beep if there's a connection. It usually has the symbol of a triangle with a horizontal line through it.

Alternatively, you can set the meter to the resistance measurement, which has a symbol of Omega. If you do it this way, you're looking for a measurement of anything other than infinite resistance.

It can happen if some solder is touching the star that the LED is mounted to.

 

[Mawnkey]

So if i use resistance and i get a reading of infinity I would then know that that particular solder joint is causing the issue? Awsome that sounds like a solid plan

 

[Mawnkey]

Okay so i checked and sure enough I had a short in both my led strings. I fixed it and I checked my voltage again and its only going up to 26.3 with q current of 800. I'm puzzled

 

[Mawnkey]

Bump

 

[cparka23]

So if i use resistance and i get a reading of infinity I would then know that that particular solder joint is causing the issue? Awsome that sounds like a solid plan

This is incorrect. Sorry if it was a little confusing.

When you check resistance between a solder pad and the heatsink, you want to see infinite resistance. If you get anything else, that means there is a connection from the solder pad to the heatsink.

If you see ReefLEDlights' troubleshooting section on their webpage, it shows how they check for shorts to the heatsink (link). They're using the diode mode, but you can also use any of the resistance modes.

 

[Mawnkey]

Thank you cparka