Mechanical siphon break options?

[Biff0rz]

My ato tank is in the garage and the tank is in the basement. Ran an ato line from the garage to the tank and obviously it's not breaking the siphon when the pump turns off. Besides placing the line higher, cutting some holes in it, and running it to a larger diameter tube, is there anything mechanical out there I can use to stop it?

 

[bluprntguy]

AutoAqua Smart ATO Replacement Siphon Breaker

AutoAqua Smart ATO Replacement Siphon Breaker

www.marineandreef.com

 

[R.Weller]

You could remove the pump & install a gate valve to create a constant drip that matches the evaporation rate. This is what we have been doing for a few years. Added benefit is that it will never fail & flood the tank.

 

[rusty hannon]

My ato tank is in the garage and the tank is in the basement. Ran an ato line from the garage to the tank and obviously it's not breaking the siphon when the pump turns off. Besides placing the line higher, cutting some holes in it, and running it to a larger diameter tube, is there anything mechanical out there I can use to stop it?

How about a one way valve. Just installed one on wife's new system but haven't gotten rock or substrate yet so haven't kicked it on yet.

 

[KStatefan]

How about a one way valve. Just installed one on wife's new system but haven't gotten rock or substrate yet so haven't kicked it on yet.

How would a one way valve stop the siphon when the siphon flow is the same direction as the pump flow?

 

[BZOFIQ]

Electronic valve with automatic spring return....nevermind you said mechanical.

 

[rusty hannon]

How would a one way valve stop the siphon when the siphon flow is the same direction as the pump flow?

I'm not sure if it will work but my thinking is when pump stops your water won't drain completely to pump so when it kicks back on your water suction won't b lost back to a to.It will be where your valve is
.I'm sure someone here will correct me if I'm wrong and again I'm not sure if its your answer but definatly worth a thought

 

[rusty hannon]

How would a one way valve stop the siphon when the siphon flow is the same direction as the pump flow?

I'm not sure if it will work but my thinking is when pump stops your water won't drain completely to pump so when it kicks back on your water suction won't b lost back to a to.It will be where your valve is
.I'm sure someone here will correct me if I'm wrong and again I'm not sure if its your answer but definatly worth a thought

 

[BZOFIQ]

How would a one way valve stop the siphon when the siphon flow is the same direction as the pump flow?

Valid point, perhaps Rusty didn't realize that the garage is higher than the basement.

 

[HeyJay]

If you have room, you could use a float switch shutoff in the sump. Wouldn't break siphon but it would stop it from overflowing

 

[rusty hannon]

Valid point, perhaps Rusty didn't realize that the garage is higher than the basement.

Nope actually slipped my mind trying to sort the problem. Thank you for the correction and appoligize for faulty advice. More to think on.

 

[BZOFIQ]

Solution - use Peristaltic pump for your ATO, they have built-in anti-siphon.

 

[malacoda]

hmmm... the only thing I can think of off the top of my head would using a large peristaltic pump -- something along the lines of an SP Miterliter or Kamora -- rather than a typical return pump. The rollers in the pump would act as mechanical gates that prevent water from flowing (in either direction) unless the pump is engaged and pumping.

 

[Biff0rz]

AutoAqua Smart ATO Replacement Siphon Breaker

AutoAqua Smart ATO Replacement Siphon Breaker

www.marineandreef.com

So I bought this and I don't know how to connect this to the tunze osmolator. I have a JG 3/8 to 1/4 connector attached directly to the pump. Coming off of that is 1/4" ro tubing. I cut the ro line and used to join fittings and put this between - it leaked (a lot) since it didn't mate up well. So I took that off and now I'm using the supplied black tube w the tunze. That line doesn't want to fit over this siphon break ends either. I heated up the tubing and put it over the fitting but it barely fits. Not sure if it'll hold pressure, that's what I'll be trying next. The tubing from the tunze seems like it'll fit into a 1/4 ro fitting but again, it'll probably leak. How do you have yours attached??

 

[Biff0rz]

Definitely not working

 

[Pistondog]

Wouldn't work with the tunze with time lags, but probably with apex.
Terminate the line from the aquarium with a 1 quart reservoir.
Fill the reservoir with the ato, fill line so that its never underwater.
Sort of like a high volume iv drip.

 

[Biff0rz]

Ok so I broke down and used a 3/8" tube above the water line and created a break, siphon issue is gone. Now I'm having a new issue (Yay?). It seems like when I put a check valve on the end of the ro line the tunze pump cannot pump. If I remove it, it works fine. I was adding it to help the pump not have to prime each time it runs. Should I be installing the check somewhere else in the line? (note the line is about 40' before it breaks). Alternatively I'm looking at alternate pumps that may be stronger...

 

[bluprntguy]

So I bought this and I don't know how to connect this to the tunze osmolator. I have a JG 3/8 to 1/4 connector attached directly to the pump. Coming off of that is 1/4" ro tubing. I cut the ro line and used to join fittings and put this between - it leaked (a lot) since it didn't mate up well. So I took that off and now I'm using the supplied black tube w the tunze. That line doesn't want to fit over this siphon break ends either. I heated up the tubing and put it over the fitting but it barely fits. Not sure if it'll hold pressure, that's what I'll be trying next. The tubing from the tunze seems like it'll fit into a 1/4 ro fitting but again, it'll probably leak. How do you have yours attached??

Why don’t you just use 3/8” tubing? It should fit in that, but might need a clamp.

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The siphon break should be at the top, not the bottom.

 

[ariellemermaid]

Ok so I broke down and used a 3/8" tube above the water line and created a break, siphon issue is gone. Now I'm having a new issue (Yay?). It seems like when I put a check valve on the end of the ro line the tunze pump cannot pump. If I remove it, it works fine. I was adding it to help the pump not have to prime each time it runs. Should I be installing the check somewhere else in the line? (note the line is about 40' before it breaks). Alternatively I'm looking at alternate pumps that may be stronger...

Sorry for reviving an old thread, but can you explain exactly what you did to solve your issue? Your thread is all I can find about solving a siphon in RO tubing, and separately I found the product linked above but it doesn’t appear to have John guest fittings.

I’m setting up a 100% RO tubing ATO with a siphon problem similar to yours. In what way (and how) did you use 3/8” tubing with RO tubing to make your siphon break? I can’t seem to find other threads going the RO route but it was easier (and IMO safer) to run behind walls than soft tubing. Did you get a one way check valve to work? Probably a good idea just to make sure it can’t siphon in the other direction too but I’m guessing the check valve requires a certain forward activation pressure that the siphon break, well, breaks.

 

[Biff0rz]

Sorry for reviving an old thread, but can you explain exactly what you did to solve your issue? Your thread is all I can find about solving a siphon in RO tubing, and separately I found the product linked above but it doesn’t appear to have John guest fittings.

I’m setting up a 100% RO tubing ATO with a siphon problem similar to yours. In what way (and how) did you use 3/8” tubing with RO tubing to make your siphon break? I can’t seem to find other threads going the RO route but it was easier (and IMO safer) to run behind walls than soft tubing. Did you get a one way check valve to work? Probably a good idea just to make sure it can’t siphon in the other direction too but I’m guessing the check valve requires a certain forward activation pressure that the siphon break, well, breaks.

Near the end of the run, just before the 1/4" goes into the sump I added the 3/8" line and placed the 1/4" into it and have the 3/8" running to the sump. I changed pumps to an apex pmup and it works like a champ, no check valve needed.