Metal Halides are the bomb

I had a major crash over a year ago so it is taking time for the new sps to grow. The only colony to survive was the purple styli on top and some of the hammer at bottom.
 
I had a major crash over a year ago so it is taking time for the new sps to grow. The only colony to survive was the purple styli on top and some of the hammer at bottom.
That sucks for you , your not alone
 
Guys, is it ok to use a bit of rubbing alcohol on the Giesemann UV glass to spot clean an area? How about the reflectors, is some dilute vinegar ok on them?
 
Guys, can anybody answer those questions above for me?
 
I would avoid vinegar on reflectors . Maybe dap a little windex on a towel for the glass . Honestly I would baby those things . make certain that they are dry before restarting the halides.
 
I would avoid vinegar on reflectors . Maybe dap a little windex on a towel for the glass . Honestly I would baby those things . make certain that they are dry before restarting the halides.
Thanks. Ive gotten it all broken down so have just been using a microfiber but was wondering if i could clean them better. The reason i ask about the glass is because the seller had to secure it with a piece of packing tape so it wouldnt move during shipping and it left a tiny glue mark that rinsing in tap water did not remove...
 
Thanks. Ive gotten it all broken down so have just been using a microfiber but was wondering if i could clean them better. The reason i ask about the glass is because the seller had to secure it with a piece of packing tape so it wouldnt move during shipping and it left a tiny glue mark that rinsing in tap water did not remove...
Glass is glass.. as long as you don't use strong acids or bases you should be fine.
Just make sure it's dry before using the light.

More extreme things like lighter fluid and Goof off will take off the tape residue.
Again need to be really DRY before using.

Try a glass wipe like for glasses. Mostly alcohol.

If there's still tape residue on the glass, remove it with a soap and vinegar solution. Fill a small bowl with warm water and add a few drops of mild dish soap. Pour ¼ cup of distilled white vinegar and stir. Dip a sponge into the mixture and apply to the tape residue using a small, circular motion.

Pick one...

 
Glass is glass.. as long as you don't use strong acids or bases you should be fine.
Just make sure it's dry before using the light.

More extreme things like lighter fluid and Goof off will take off the tape residue.
Again need to be really DRY before using.

Try a glass wipe like for glasses. Mostly alcohol.



Pick one...

Thanks, i figured, i just wasnt sure if maybe the glass on these MH fixtures was super special or something!
 
Thanks, i figured, i just wasnt sure if maybe the glass on these MH fixtures was super special or something!
main-qimg-83e269ef061469716724f9f387987a02


I suppose you can get " better" glass.

There us that confusing which mh's already mitigate uv in their design
 
If you have a single end bulb fixture = regular glass
A double end bulb fixture does have special glass it protects against uv light . This glass I would especially baby.
the reflectors for me have always stayed clean , maybe a little dust that’s it . I just feather dust them .
 
If you have a single end bulb fixture = regular glass
A double end bulb fixture does have special glass it protects against uv light . This glass I would especially baby.
the reflectors for me have always stayed clean , maybe a little dust that’s it . I just feather dust them .
Yea its a DE fixture with Giesemann Protect glass... thats why i asked. I should have been more clear (no pun intended)
 
If you have a single end bulb fixture = regular glass
A double end bulb fixture does have special glass it protects against uv light . This glass I would especially baby.
the reflectors for me have always stayed clean , maybe a little dust that’s it . I just feather dust them .
Not sure that is "exactly" what they mean.
1) Some double ended are self shielded for UV.
2) Shielding is for more than just UV.

I've seen nothing other than using tempered glass as a "uv" shield and a protector from themal expansion and bulbs exploding..
Not that you can't use specific glass (like heat absorbing but that has a green tint and is part of the chemical structure of the glass.
I see no evidence of any optical coating type stuff that would be impacted by cleaning.

Not 100% on this
Do I need a cover shield between the lamp and the aquarium?
Metal halide lamps produce a large amount of UV and also have a potential of exploding. The single ended metal halide lamps have an outer jacket which eliminates most of the UV. However, they have an inherent risk of exploding and UL requires metal halide lamps to be enclosed. On double ended lamps there is no UV shield. Double ended lamps must have a glass shield or major eye injuries including blindness may occur.

Metal halides can locally produce more UV than sunlight (UV-c is filtered in the atmosphere so any is more) but the cutoff of normal glass should be enough if thick enough.

most of the UV blocking films/coatings are for the UV-A/B that is allowed through the glass (like say a 385nm LED)
Optivex_UV_Blocking_Glass_Curve.png

Transmission of UV through glass depends on it's composition. Flint glass already blocks the majority of UV transmission. Generally optically clear glass absorbs wavelengths below ~325 nm. The material transmissions below show a number of Schott Flint glass formulations (ones with SF in their names).

Underlying Mercury vapor lamp spectrum..
The major UV component of MH's
Mercury-spectrum.jpg

The 375 peak is all that would make it through the glass.
Arguably a + for a reef tank.

Now from the chart in the above link you will see types (formulas) of glass have more or less UV than others so they could be a type of glass but all those would have their UV blocking as part of the glass..
main-qimg-ad4b597ef076aee67566a75a10fe7e18



N-SF11 will block all UV below 365nm..
Regardles the thicker the glass the less uv as well
Hmm..needs some work.
 
Another question for you guys. Do you think this wire hanger for the Radion rail kit is equivalent to the one that came with my Giesemann kit? Im pretty sure the Giesemann fixture is about 25 pounds. The radion rail kit has rails that are 90” and can hold multiple radions. It will make the switch much faster if i dont need to switch them out...

Ecotech:
A4007478-F743-4256-BAD9-407D79B5F409.jpeg

Giesemann:
2738B709-346C-4A3D-B551-C5AB3398F982.jpeg
 
I just got a used 250w feefbrite hybrid and cam with a lumatek ballast. I going to be running 2 250w over my 90g but can’t seem to find a limatek ballast anywhere if I buy a different ballast for the other reefbrite and run same bulb will theRe be a different light output?
 
I just got a used 250w feefbrite hybrid and cam with a lumatek ballast. I going to be running 2 250w over my 90g but can’t seem to find a limatek ballast anywhere if I buy a different ballast for the other reefbrite and run same bulb will theRe be a different light output?
2 - 250 watt HQI DE halide bulbs. 1 - 175 watt mogul base single end bulb. Which is which? Can you tell by looking at the lighting in the tank and without looking at my build thread... 2 new Hamilton M80 ballasts, 1 - 20 year old ARO ballast. I wouldn’t worry about any difference. They will be subtle at best and you’ll have to purposely look out for it to notice.

706d40bd-bb87-4a05-998f-3ceafa417664-jpeg.2028929
 
Another question for you guys. Do you think this wire hanger for the Radion rail kit is equivalent to the one that came with my Giesemann kit? Im pretty sure the Giesemann fixture is about 25 pounds. The radion rail kit has rails that are 90” and can hold multiple radions. It will make the switch much faster if i dont need to switch them out...

Ecotech:
A4007478-F743-4256-BAD9-407D79B5F409.jpeg

Giesemann:
2738B709-346C-4A3D-B551-C5AB3398F982.jpeg
They can be used interchangeably. Another cheap source is these hangers from LED GroupBuy: https://www.ledgroupbuy.com/hanging-kit-for-makersled-heatsink/

As for the glass shield, you can clean it with most glass cleaners w/o issue. Just make sure it's dry before you put it back into use.
 
They can be used interchangeably. Another cheap source is these hangers from LED GroupBuy: https://www.ledgroupbuy.com/hanging-kit-for-makersled-heatsink/

As for the glass shield, you can clean it with most glass cleaners w/o issue. Just make sure it's dry before you put it back into use.
Thanks. Im just going to roll with the bullet style ecotech one. I will use the Giesemann wire and quick release thingy. I just didnt want to take the wire holder off the bracket on the ceiling if i didnt need to. I figure each one of those things has to be rated around 25 pounds and we always use two...
 
I just got a used 250w feefbrite hybrid and cam with a lumatek ballast. I going to be running 2 250w over my 90g but can’t seem to find a limatek ballast anywhere if I buy a different ballast for the other reefbrite and run same bulb will theRe be a different light output?
Just get a 250W electronic ballast. Icecap selectable should be fine.
 
2 - 250 watt HQI DE halide bulbs. 1 - 175 watt mogul base single end bulb. Which is which? Can you tell by looking at the lighting in the tank and without looking at my build thread... 2 new Hamilton M80 ballasts, 1 - 20 year old ARO ballast. I wouldn’t worry about any difference. They will be subtle at best and you’ll have to purposely look out for it to notice.

706d40bd-bb87-4a05-998f-3ceafa417664-jpeg.2028929
The one in the middle is the 175W. I can tell in my system very well even if I use all electronic ballasts for my Spectra. The picture makes a bit harder to tell though. I hope I'm right. LOL!
Very nice tank!!!!!!
 
The one in the middle is the 175W. I can tell in my system very well even if I use all electronic ballasts for my Spectra. The picture makes a bit harder to tell though. I hope I'm right. LOL!
Very nice tank!!!!!!
Center and right are 250. 175 is left side. Even without the oversarurarion of a cheap cell phone camera, in person it’s difficult to tell the difference. Even I’m surprised its that difficult to tell. Thanks for the compliment!
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top