Metal Halides are the bomb

[minus9]

I picked up a 72 inch giesemann spectra. Currently have my 48 inch for sale….

My tank is 96 long; 24 high; 30 deep. I plan on running the giesemann at 250 watts because the tank isn’t that tall, and 250 x 3 bulbs is obviously more energy efficient.
Would anyone be able to recommend a good combination t5/mh bulbs to make this tank pop!?! In the future I may accentuate with orpheks for night viewing and to create soft on and off modes. But it’s not as important as seeing the tank as natural as possible with the giesemann - I’m just not sure which bulbs to go with.

What bulbs? Radiums or 14k?

 

[jda]

Try out the Hamilton 20k on eBallast. Then pick the T5s to whiten or blue it up to your liking.

If you need more power, then 20k Radium on m80 (hard to find right now) are about 30-50% more output but also use more energy.

I have a 36" spectra with the 20k Hammy on selectable ballast over a fuge. They look nice. They are not nearly as powerful as the HQI (I usually use 14k phoenix on m80), but I don't need it over this tank.

 

[Humongous]

Does anyone know of a data base or where I could find out how much of a par increase I would see if any going from a 20k down to 10k or 6.5K? I’m setting up a new magnifica and gigantea tank, I really want to run halides again over it. I’ve got a Cozumel sun fixture and want to put a 400W Hamilton bulb possibly over it. Or if someone has another suggestion, I’m open.

 

[Big E]

Does anyone know of a data base or where I could find out how much of a par increase I would see if any going from a 20k down to 10k or 6.5K? I’m setting up a new magnifica and gigantea tank, I really want to run halides again over it. I’ve got a Cozumel sun fixture and want to put a 400W Hamilton bulb possibly over it. Or if someone has another suggestion, I’m open.

Do a google search on a specific bulb brand and spectrum ............the info from Sanjay should still be available.

The type of ballast you use also plays a very important roll.

Hamiltion tech is very helpful if you need specific questions answered.

A Cosumel fixture with a 400w 20k bulb & a good ballast will have more than enough par if you want to stay with a bluer bulb.

 

[Torontotraders]

What bulbs? Radiums or 14k?

That’s the problem, I’m not sure what to go with. The mh that are currently in the fixture says radium blues. They have to be changed out because they’re old according to the guy I bought them from. I read radium bulbs are the best for this fixture. For the t5s I was thinking giesemann bulbs, but not sure which ones would give the nicest (natural) crisp light for corals?

 

[Humongous]

Do a google search on a specific bulb brand and spectrum ............the info from Sanjay should still be available.

The type of ballast you use also plays a very important roll.

Hamiltion tech is very helpful if you need specific questions answered.

A Cosumel fixture with a 400w 20k bulb & a good ballast will have more than enough par if you want to stay with a bluer bulb.

I’ve looked for Sanjay’s data and I must not be typing the right information in the search bar. I’ll look again. I’m going to call Hamilton as well. I have vertex electronic and PFO magnetic in 250 and 400 watts.

 

[minus9]

I’ve looked for Sanjay’s data and I must not be typing the right information in the search bar. I’ll look again. I’m going to call Hamilton as well. I have vertex electronic and PFO magnetic in 250 and 400 watts.

Try this

 

[Bpb]

That’s the problem, I’m not sure what to go with. The mh that are currently in the fixture says radium blues. They have to be changed out because they’re old according to the guy I bought them from. I read radium bulbs are the best for this fixture. For the t5s I was thinking giesemann bulbs, but not sure which ones would give the nicest (natural) crisp light for corals?

This may sound like incoherent ramblings….but here we go. The subjective “natural and crisp aesthetic” can be so widely interpreted. One can go snorkeling and swim down to 15 feet or more and if you look around, the backdrop appears blue as blue can be, but look at the shimmering light reflected off the rocks and corals (to me) still has that 6500k-10,000k appearance. All reflected full spectrum light. No fluorescence.

To make for a truly natural appearing reef you really should put 6500K or 10,000K metal halides in, with a BLUE tank background (not black or clear), and keep it clean. Don’t allow coraline and gunk to build up on it. And use ATI Blue+ bulbs as the t5 supplement. Or mix evenly blue and true actinic t5 bulbs for your fluorescent dawn/dusk viewing. They won’t show up much for daytime viewing when the halides are on but you can enjoy the blueness when the halides are off.

The whole schtick of “corals in 20-50 feet of water only get blue light” just doesn’t play out visually, practically. The ocean backdrop is blue, but the corals still look like they’re getting white light. Nowhere in nature do you see an equivalent to a tank illuminated by blue LEDs or blue t5’s. Green and near yellow penetrate just as deep as blue does. That will mute nearly all fluorescence

 

[DIYreefer]

So I received my two 400w metal halides last week. Never used halides before, as I was concerned about heat. Everyone claims you HAVE to have a chiller and that the heat is unbearable. When I turn on the 2x 400w MH's and 2x OR3 led strips, my temperature only goes from 77F to 78.5F. This is over a 6 hour lighting period with lights 10'' from the surface. No fans... In Texas...

With fans on my Temperature actually drops!

Am I the only one? I was expecting heat to be a much bigger issue.

While I am not running halides currently, I have on many tanks in the past and have never used a chiller. Also in Tx

 

[Big E]

I’ve looked for Sanjay’s data and I must not be typing the right information in the search bar. I’ll look again. I’m going to call Hamilton as well. I have vertex electronic and PFO magnetic in 250 and 400 watts.

I'm not sure that link minus9 posted works correctly. If it doesn't you need to look up the specific bulb and add Sanjays name. For example "Radium 400w metal halide review Sanjay". It usually pulls up the original article.

Spectral Analysis Of 400w Lamps: XM, Radium, Osram And Sunmaster, PFO

Sanjay and Tim update our readers on the spectral output of these bulbs along with thoughts on each.

reefs.com

 

[jda]

The link works on my iMac in chrome. Click on MH Compare. The link has never been good on tablets, phones or the like and I have not had a PC in a few decades, so no idea about their browsers. I love that reefs.com hosts so this, so no venom if it is so-so on some platforms.

Here is the difference in Hamilton 10k vs 14k on m58 (magnetic)... twice the output for 10k... but Hammy 14k was no output monster to be sure. PPFD is what you are looking at for total output. Radium 20k on m80 (more wattage than the m58) is 85 ppfd. 6500k is even more than the 10k. I choose 350-850nm since I believe that all of this spectrum matters.

The tool used to use two colors for the different bulbs. Again, still happy that this exists, so no real gripe here.

 

[TmzNow]

I'm taking the plunge! After lurking in the shadows of my blue lit keyboard form the Radions in my fish room/office, I've read the entire thread and many others!!!

HALIDES ARE BOMB!!!!!!

I've decided on either Hamilton or radiums. The tank I want to light is Red Sea reefer 170 (20",20",24") Its an SPS dominant tank and I'll run 2x RB VHO actinic strips which I already have. I would really love the group to give me your complete "bias" opinion on MH equipment (wattage, reflector, radiums or hammie, etc...)

I need to make good use of the thanksgiving weekend to hang these new lights so lets do this!!!

 

[TmzNow]

Wide, well distributed, complete and constant spectrum (from UV to IR) is what the difference is. Your corals don't care about ramping at all. Giesemann Infinity and Spectra are among the best fixtures in existence! You don't need anything else!!!! Enjoy your tank as it is in regards to lighting. Your corals will display amazingly healthy and with superb growth/colors. Halides/T5s are the best!
Yes, halides are the BOMB!

All Hail halides!!

 

[minus9]

I'm taking the plunge! After lurking in the shadows of my blue lit keyboard form the Radions in my fish room/office, I've read the entire thread and many others!!!

HALIDES ARE BOMB!!!!!!

I've decided on either Hamilton or radiums. The tank I want to light is Red Sea reefer 170 (20",20",24") Its an SPS dominant tank and I'll run 2x RB VHO actinic strips which I already have. I would really love the group to give me your complete "bias" opinion on MH equipment (wattage, reflector, radiums or hammie, etc...)

I need to make good use of the thanksgiving weekend to hang these new lights so lets

Giesemann spectra’s are great if you can find one. I went with two Reef Brite’s no LEDs. They are super lightweight and look great.

 

[jda]

I'm taking the plunge! After lurking in the shadows of my blue lit keyboard form the Radions in my fish room/office, I've read the entire thread and many others!!!

HALIDES ARE BOMB!!!!!!

I've decided on either Hamilton or radiums. The tank I want to light is Red Sea reefer 170 (20",20",24") Its an SPS dominant tank and I'll run 2x RB VHO actinic strips which I already have. I would really love the group to give me your complete "bias" opinion on MH equipment (wattage, reflector, radiums or hammie, etc...)

I need to make good use of the thanksgiving weekend to hang these new lights so lets do this!!!

I used a single 250w 14k Phoenix in a hanging pendant over a 60g cube (24x24x24). The hanging was ugly since I was on a budget ($1000 for a year) but the performance was good. There are photos in the link in signature. Open top, pendant, no heat issues.

Above was on a SPS tank. For a mixed reef, people too often overlook 150w HQI. You can get 14k Phoenix for this wattage and they are wonderful lights that don't use much power. The 14k Phoenix in 150w is a lot of output and looks great.

 

[Humongous]

The link works on my iMac in chrome. Click on MH Compare. The link has never been good on tablets, phones or the like and I have not had a PC in a few decades, so no idea about their browsers. I love that reefs.com hosts so this, so no venom if it is so-so on some platforms.

Here is the difference in Hamilton 10k vs 14k on m58 (magnetic)... twice the output for 10k... but Hammy 14k was no output monster to be sure. PPFD is what you are looking at for total output. Radium 20k on m80 (more wattage than the m58) is 85 ppfd. 6500k is even more than the 10k. I choose 350-850nm since I believe that all of this spectrum matters.

The tool used to use two colors for the different bulbs. Again, still happy that this exists, so no real gripe here.

I was able to get it working finally, It wasn't really happy working with my tablet but on my laptop worked great. I called Dave at Hamilton and talked bulbs for a bit. I'm going to try the 400W 6.5k and 10K to see what I like best. He said the vertex electronic ballast will push out serious power but if I still need more just hook up the magnetic ballasts I have.

Time to experiment!

 

[xtian]

I was able to get it working finally, It wasn't really happy working with my tablet but on my laptop worked great. I called Dave at Hamilton and talked bulbs for a bit. I'm going to try the 400W 6.5k and 10K to see what I like best. He said the vertex electronic ballast will push out serious power but if I still need more just hook up the magnetic ballasts I have.

Time to experiment!

What size tank? That's a lot of light.

 

[TmzNow]

The link works on my iMac in chrome. Click on MH Compare. The link has never been good on tablets, phones or the like and I have not had a PC in a few decades, so no idea about their browsers. I love that reefs.com hosts so this, so no venom if it is so-so on some platforms.

Here is the difference in Hamilton 10k vs 14k on m58 (magnetic)... twice the output for 10k... but Hammy 14k was no output monster to be sure. PPFD is what you are looking at for total output. Radium 20k on m80 (more wattage than the m58) is 85 ppfd. 6500k is even more than the 10k. I choose 350-850nm since I believe that all of this spectrum matters.

The tool used to use two colors for the different bulbs. Again, still happy that this exists, so no real gripe here.

both of those look the same tone of blue, which one has the peak in 450 range?

 

[jda]

I don't know. Graph the separately to find out. One of those tabs shows single bulbs. They used to do blue and red graphs when you plotted 2 of them.

 

[Butcher333]

This may sound like incoherent ramblings….but here we go. The subjective “natural and crisp aesthetic” can be so widely interpreted. One can go snorkeling and swim down to 15 feet or more and if you look around, the backdrop appears blue as blue can be, but look at the shimmering light reflected off the rocks and corals (to me) still has that 6500k-10,000k appearance. All reflected full spectrum light. No fluorescence.

To make for a truly natural appearing reef you really should put 6500K or 10,000K metal halides in, with a BLUE tank background (not black or clear), and keep it clean. Don’t allow coraline and gunk to build up on it. And use ATI Blue+ bulbs as the t5 supplement. Or mix evenly blue and true actinic t5 bulbs for your fluorescent dawn/dusk viewing. They won’t show up much for daytime viewing when the halides are on but you can enjoy the blueness when the halides are off.

The whole schtick of “corals in 20-50 feet of water only get blue light” just doesn’t play out visually, practically. The ocean backdrop is blue, but the corals still look like they’re getting white light. Nowhere in nature do you see an equivalent to a tank illuminated by blue LEDs or blue t5’s. Green and near yellow penetrate just as deep as blue does. That will mute nearly all fluorescence

I sure do like the s&^t you say @Bpb
“To make for a truly natural appearing reef you really should put 6500K or 10,000K metal halides in, with a BLUE tank background (not black or clear), and keep it clean.”
I was running these same thoughts a while back when pondering the perspective of blueness in a thread and you have very clearly explained it. Very succinctly too. I really like the contributions you make and they don’t sound like incoherent ramblings. That’s funny.