Meteor shower not doing good still.

[at11ok]

So I posted about my meteor shower coral on here asking if it was dying a while ago. They said it took a while for it to establish and it might be the lighting causing it to not open up. I got new lights and i actually saw some of the little mouths opening up for a day or 2 but not again it’s closed and I think it is dying. Is there anything I can do to save it? Will an iodine dip help?

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

it is a low light, medium flow coral. If changing its placement doesnt help it, then it might be that the tank is not ready for corals.

 

[Dom]

Please post you latest water test results along with the date these tests were taken. Also, please post a full tank shot as this can be helpful in determining the issue.

- Do you have any other corals? If so, how are they doing?
- What lighting do you run and what is your light cycle?

At this point, I wouldn't dip. That is something that you should do before you place the coral.

Regards,
Dom

 

[at11ok]

it is a low light, medium flow coral. If changing its placement doesnt help it, then it might be that the tank is not ready for corals.

I have 11 other corals that are all doing good. This meteor shower was my second coral I placed in my tank and was doing ok at first but then closed up and didn’t get better pretty much. I have both stony and soft carls being 6 Kenya trees, greenstar polyp, toadstool, hand coral, rainbow acan, and a zoa and they are all doing fine. None of them are close to it too. This is why I’m not sure what to do to help it. The light is low with blues being 100 and white being 50. And it being near the bottom of the tank.

 

[at11ok]

Please post you latest water test results along with the date these tests were taken. Also, please post a full tank shot as this can be helpful in determining the issue.

- Do you have any other corals? If so, how are they doing?
- What lighting do you run and what is your light cycle?

At this point, I wouldn't dip. That is something that you should do before you place the coral.

Regards,
Dom

I will take test in a little when I get home since my last ones won’t be the same since I did a water change 2 days ago. From before of what I can remember everything was good except nitrates being 40 which is was why I did the 20% water change that day.
I run 2 hipargero 30w lights on my tank.
i have 11 other coral and they are all doing good including my other stony coral.
my most recent picture of the whole tank was before I cleaned it

 

[at11ok]

Please post you latest water test results along with the date these tests were taken. Also, please post a full tank shot as this can be helpful in determining the issue.

- Do you have any other corals? If so, how are they doing?
- What lighting do you run and what is your light cycle?

At this point, I wouldn't dip. That is something that you should do before you place the coral.

Regards,
Dom

I turn on my lights at 8am with blues at 100 and whites at 50. Then around 6pm I turn off the whites and leave the blues on at 75 then off at 8pm.

 

[Dom]

I will take test in a little when I get home since my last ones won’t be the same since I did a water change 2 days ago. From before of what I can remember everything was good except nitrates being 40 which is was why I did the 20% water change that day.
I run 2 hipargero 30w lights on my tank.
i have 11 other coral and they are all doing good including my other stony coral.
my most recent picture of the whole tank was before I cleaned it

The general rule of thumb I follow is 5watts of light per gallon. How many gallons is the tank?

I'm noticing the Nem on the upper left side. It seems a bit under inflated. This could be light related.

I would suggest trying to move the meteor closer to the surface to see if it responds. Place it in a new spot and leave it there for at least a week, 10 days would be better. Don't expect to see results overnight.

 

[at11ok]

The general rule of thumb I follow is 5watts of light per gallon. How many gallons is the tank?

I'm noticing the Nem on the upper left side. It seems a bit under inflated. This could be light related.

I would suggest trying to move the meteor closer to the surface to see if it responds. Place it in a new spot and leave it there for at least a week, 10 days would be better. Don't expect to see results overnight.

Nem? Meaning anemone? I don’t have an anemone. There’s a bunch of Kenya trees everywhere though. On the left side is a Kenya tree frag, sinularia, Green star Polyp, toadstool and on top some more Kenya trees. My tank is 55 gals but the par is said to be enough for my corals. I’ll try moving it up and see what it does. Sorry for the late response I forgot to post yesterday,
Ph 8.0
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 40
Calcium 380
dkh 10
Phosphates 0
Salinity 1.025

 

[Dom]

Nem? Meaning anemone? I don’t have an anemone. There’s a bunch of Kenya trees everywhere though. On the left side is a Kenya tree frag, sinularia, Green star Polyp, toadstool and on top some more Kenya trees. My tank is 55 gals but the par is said to be enough for my corals. I’ll try moving it up and see what it does. Sorry for the late response I forgot to post yesterday,
Ph 8.0
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 40
Calcium 380
dkh 10
Phosphates 0
Salinity 1.025

My bad. Yes, it looked like an under inflated Anemone.

Your numbers look pretty good...

Nitrate of 40 isn't the end of the world, and can be pulled down with water changes. Calcium should get bumped up to about 420 and your ALK is a bit high at 10dKH. I keep mine around 8.5. FAITHFUL, WEEKLY 20% water changes will correct this, depending on which salt mix you use.

 

[at11ok]

My bad. Yes, it looked like an under inflated Anemone.

Your numbers look pretty good...

Nitrate of 40 isn't the end of the world, and can be pulled down with water changes. Calcium should get bumped up to about 420 and your ALK is a bit high at 10dKH. I keep mine around 8.5. FAITHFUL, WEEKLY 20% water changes will correct this, depending on which salt mix you use.

I use Red Sea coral pro salt and I’ve been doing 10% water changes weekly and did a 20 a few days ago I’ll start doing 20% now

 

[Dom]

I use Red Sea coral pro salt and I’ve been doing 10% water changes weekly and did a 20 a few days ago I’ll start doing 20% now

At 20%, faithful weekly water changes will certainly bring down your nitrates. Also, with the amount of coral you currently have in the tank, weekly water changes will replenish the consumption of calcium and ALK by the corals, so there won't be a need to dose at this point.

Remember as you corals grow, they will consume more, so water changes alone may not be enough down the road.

Another good idea would be to test a fresh batch of water before putting it in the tank.

 

[at11ok]

At 20%, faithful weekly water changes will certainly bring down your nitrates. Also, with the amount of coral you currently have in the tank, weekly water changes will replenish the consumption of calcium and ALK by the corals, so there won't be a need to dose at this point.

Remember as you corals grow, they will consume more, so water changes alone may not be enough down the road.

Another good idea would be to test a fresh batch of water before putting it in the tank.

Do you know how I can keep salinity stable? I put the recommended amount of salt in the new water but then the salinity will go up to 1.029 most of the time and then I have to either put way less salt in the new water or none at all to fix that.

 

[Dom]

Do you know how I can keep salinity stable? I put the recommended amount of salt in the new water but then the salinity will go up to 1.029 most of the time and then I have to either put way less salt in the new water or none at all to fix that.

Good question!

Your struggle to keep salinity stable is because you aren't using an automatic top off system. It's like this...

Water in your tank evaporates. And the rate of evaporation is dependent on the temperature and humidity in the room. Evaporation rates during the winter are higher because we heat our homes and the air in them tends to be dry. In contrast, summer tends to be more humid, slowing the rate of evaporation.

But while water evaporates, salt does not. Salinity is a ratio of water to salt. As water evaporates, the ratio of water to salt decreases. When we add water, the ratio goes up. This explains the fluctuation in your readings.

By having an automatic top off system, water is added to the tank as it evaporates, keeping your salinity fluctuation undetectable.

 

[at11ok]

Good question!

Your struggle to keep salinity stable is because you aren't using an automatic top off system. It's like this...

Water in your tank evaporates. And the rate of evaporation is dependent on the temperature and humidity in the room. Evaporation rates during the winter are higher because we heat our homes and the air in them tends to be dry. In contrast, summer tends to be more humid, slowing the rate of evaporation.

But while water evaporates, salt does not. Salinity is a ratio of water to salt. As water evaporates, the ratio of water to salt increases. When we add water, the ratio goes down. This explains the fluctuation in your readings.

By having an automatic top off system, water is added to the tank as it evaporates, keeping your salinity fluctuation undetectable.

Oh wow thanks that taught me a lot already, I’ve been wanting to put a refugium and a top off but I have no idea how any of that works. I have a 20 gal long and 2 10 gal tanks I can use for them I know for the refugium I need a sump a skimmer and chaeto or some sort of macro algae I’m just trying to figure out how to diy the tanks I have already and what equipment to get. As for a top off system I don’t even know where to begin.

 

[Dom]

Oh wow thanks that taught me a lot already, I’ve been wanting to put a refugium and a top off but I have no idea how any of that works. I have a 20 gal long and 2 10 gal tanks I can use for them I know for the refugium I need a sump a skimmer and chaeto or some sort of macro algae I’m just trying to figure out how to diy the tanks I have already and what equipment to get. As for a top off system I don’t even know where to begin.

Yes, I noticed from the picture that you are not running a sump. And a sump will make a difference.

If you have a 20 long, it makes for a great sump. If you search for "sump baffle kits", you will find them for all different size tanks. I don't use them though. I just buy glass panes cut to size and silicone them in myself. Once you have a sump, then yes, you can add a skimmer to it.

How many gallons is your tank?

 

[at11ok]

Yes, I noticed from the picture that you are not running a sump. And a sump will make a difference.

If you have a 20 long, it makes for a great sump. If you search for "sump baffle kits", you will find them for all different size tanks. I don't use them though. I just buy glass panes cut to size and silicone them in myself. Once you have a sump, then yes, you can add a skimmer to it.

How many gallons is your tank?

It’s a 55 gal tank. I have a small hang on skimmer. I was think of getting these items soon if they’re the right things to get and good enough?

 

[rhostam]

Are you using carbon anywhere?

You have a number of leathers. Perhaps allelopathy is a problem and the cyphastrea are responding to it accordingly.

 

[at11ok]

Are you using carbon anywhere?

You have a number of leathers. Perhaps allelopathy is a problem and the cyphastrea are responding to it accordingly.

I have activated Carbon media in my filter? That’s pretty much it. What is allelopathy?

 

[Dom]

It’s a 55 gal tank. I have a small hang on skimmer. I was think of getting these items soon if they’re the right things to get and good enough?

One thing at a time. Focus on the sump. You can't pick a pump until the sump is completed and in place. Then you can calculate your head height and make a choice.

 

[Wasabiroot]

An ATO will be a game changer for you. The cost can be decent for a good quality one (80-120) but they scale up to any system you may have in the future. And, they'll help with salinity and overall stability.

One other thing. I haven't had luck with cyphastrea yet either. I talked to Marc Levenson of melevsreef (huge source of info for me when I was first learning) and he suggested that some tanks just need to wait until they're ready for certain corals. I plan on waiting until the 1 year mark to try them again. Not saying that's your issue, but perhaps you will have future success.
For what it's worth, it's still alive, so you're close to getting things figured out for it. Hope it turns around