Michael's Reefer 170

[HolisticBear]

Dirty RODI

This sediment filter is less than six months old. When your building is > 100 years old and the city's pipes are older, you get some dirt. The local TDS is about 40 which is nice thou.

 

[GoVols]

This sediment filter is less than six months old. When your building is > 100 years old and the city's pipes are older, you get some dirt. The local TDS is about 40 which is nice thou.

(lol)
Looks like a fifteen stage is on the, get list.

 

[Jerel]

Which Sicce pump did you choose for your algae reactor? I've just realized that I don't have enough flow going through mine and growth has seized towards the top of the unit. I'm going to add a dedicated soon !

 

[HolisticBear]

Which Sicce pump did you choose for your algae reactor? I've just realized that I don't have enough flow going through mine and growth has seized towards the top of the unit. I'm going to add a dedicated soon !

I went with the 1.0 and have a small ball valve prior to the reactor and it's cranked down a bit. I measured the outflow to target 100gph.

 

[Jerel]

I went with the 1.0 and have a small ball valve prior to the reactor and it's cranked down a bit. I measured the outflow to target 100gph.

You're moving double the amount of water than i am. I added a flow sensor from my manifold and its measuring around 52gph... My target needs to be between 150-200gph.

 

[GoVols]

Michael,
Are you running GAC in your new Reefer?

 

[HolisticBear]

Michael,
Are you running GAC in your new Reefer?

I'm running GAC and Phosguard. The goal is to never run GFO nor Phosguard, and rely on the macro-algae reactor. However even Triton recommends alternating AL/Iron monthly for removal of PO4.

It will take some time to dial in. The reactor only recently went to full-time night schedule and I'm not sure there was any growth. It didn't turn white or completely break-down either, so that's good

 

[HolisticBear]

You're moving double the amount of water than i am. I added a flow sensor from my manifold and its measuring around 52gph... My target needs to be between 150-200gph.

You're going to pull the Pax-Bellum off the manifold? A 1.0 siccie running flat out might work depending on plumbing, but it also might be just short. I do have the ball-valve cranked down a bit to limit it to 100. No flow meter, just timed filling a bucket.

 

[GoVols]

I'm running GAC and Phosguard. The goal is to never run GFO nor Phosguard, and rely on the macro-algae reactor. However even Triton recommends alternating AL/Iron monthly for removal of PO4.

It will take some time to dial in. The reactor only recently went to full-time night schedule and I'm not there was any growth. It didn't turn white or completely break-down either, so that's good.

Are you using the Red Sea "Reef Spec" carbon?

 

[justingraham]

Are you using the Red Sea "Reef Spec" carbon?

I ran into a problem with the carbon I'm using (turned my tank black) the brs rox or whatever it is called I do not think I will ever use that again I will stick with the tlf carbon as it has always been good to me

 

[HolisticBear]

Are you using the Red Sea "Reef Spec" carbon?

BRS Rox in a mesh bag in return area. After I left all AF products, I went BRS brand.

I'm feeling good about Red Sea and plan to stick with them for awhile.

I could imagine using KZ Coral Snow instead of carbon. I like carbon for that beautiful clear water look, could achieve same with Coral Snow apparently

 

[HolisticBear]

I ran into a problem with the carbon I'm using (turned my tank black) the brs rox or whatever it is called I do not think I will ever use that again I will stick with the tlf carbon as it has always been good to me

I saw that post! I didn't reply because I really didn't have a good suggestion and thankfully others had experience.

Rox is soft, you definitely want it packed between foam pads to limit movement and not too much flow.

EDIT: I'm a huge fan of it ain't broke, don't fix it. So if TLF works for you, I'd say stick with it. If you sent BRS videos they might make a warning video for others so that doesn't happen to anyone else. I felt so bad for you and your tank. Such a sick feeling.

 

[GoVols]

I ran into a problem with the carbon I'm using (turned my tank black) the brs rox or whatever it is called I do not think I will ever use that again I will stick with the tlf carbon as it has always been good to me

Justin,
Thanks for your input and I don't blame you for going back to the (tlf carbon).
Rox is a very aggression carbon and can suck all your nutrients out ASAP and bleach your corals if your not careful.

Your tangs are in our thoughts and I hope they don't come down with hlle from all the carbon fines.

I use the Purigen reactor as one part of my nitrate control and I only use GAC when necessary to remove a treatment.
I don't have a carbon issue but it is just overkill with the Purigen reactor.

Freddie

 

[GoVols]

I felt so bad for you and your tank. Such a sick feeling.

+1
It could have happened to any of us and we feel each others highs and lows.

 

[justingraham]

I have no idea how my fish are doing I hope ok I'm trying to forget about it my tank sitter says everything is alive so that's all I need to know.

And I don't blame brs I blame myself for leaving the flow the same as tlf carbon live and learn and am truly happy it happened the day before I left not when I was away

 

[Jerel]

You're going to pull the Pax-Bellum off the manifold? A 1.0 siccie running flat out might work depending on plumbing, but it also might be just short. I do have the ball-valve cranked down a bit to limit it to 100. No flow meter, just timed filling a bucket.

Yeah.. I'm going to pull the ARID reactor from the manifold. There isn't enough space to add a valve after my manifold to restrict the flow to my return nozzle. Early on.. I had to decide if i wanted a flow sensor or a valve, flow sensor was in favor of a valve.

I have a Tunze 1073.20 coming to feed the reactor.

 

[Midrats]

This sediment filter is less than six months old. When your building is > 100 years old and the city's pipes are older, you get some dirt. The local TDS is about 40 which is nice thou.

40? Lucky, that's about 400 less than mine. As for the sand I don't disagree, it is a lot of work. I think I may Hoover mine down to a half an inch or so.

 

[HolisticBear]

Phosphates

I struggled to keep PO4 between 0.02 - 0.04 on my previous AIO. While it was < 0.1, I never knew whether it would be 0.04 or 0.08 and this was with an aggressive replacement policy of Phosguard.

Then I read our resident expert Randy's post that typical food can add between 0.02ppm and 0.3ppm per day. I realized that PO4 testing, in particular on a small tank, is hyper-sensitivity to time of day. So I started testing in the morning prior to any feeding, figuring that represented a low point and when I should ideally measure 0.02.

I just measured 0 with the Hanna ULR checker on the 170

I've been feeding pretty aggressively and there are plenty of diatoms, so it's not really 0. However, I consider it a pretty positive sign. The NYOS is amazing and I'm having it skim very wet, will probably back that off in time.

The macro-algae is alive, but I'm not it's 'growing'. I'm not too concerned and really need to wait until the diatoms exhaust all the silicates before I start tinkering.

Everything is doing good. Took reference photos on Sunday, will be fun to compare in a month.

Lights are at 88% of my target program and acclimation mode will complete end of next week.

 

[HolisticBear]

Alk/Ca Supplements

When I set up my AIO, I immediately researched all the methods used to maintain Alk/Ca. When I last in the hobby, Kalk / Ca Reactor / ESV two part were the primary ways.

I initially heard some good things about Red Sea, but Triton + AF seemed to be the new cool kids on the block. Zeovit clearly having success but AF/Triton were the 'newer' things. Plenty of people were still going old-school with Kalk, ESV, or Ca Reactors.

I was initially enamored with AF only to have my first bucket of salt completely fail to match the stated params, like numerous posts state across the various forums + facebook. After expending energy on that, I kicked myself for being seduced by the new shiny thing with the pretty boxes. I reverted to Kalk for the AIO.

With AF learning, I realized my primary reason for discounting Red Sea (it hasn't been updated in years) is exactly what marketers with false products rely on. I was fortunate to met @GoVols and he introduced me to the Freddie Way, using Red Sea Skeletal Elements. His tank looks great with wonderful colors.

Kalk still required 3 products since I used a bit more Alk than Ca and Mg needed to be replaced. The Freddy Way is also 3 products: Skeletal Elements, Colors C, Colors D which supply Alk/Ca/Mg + full trace elements. One goal with the 170 is to get better color than I was getting with the AIO.

I've settled into a routine with Red Sea. I was testing Alk twice daily and just switched to daily. Depending on Alk, I add between 4 to 6 grams of Skeletal Elements powder every day. Every 13 grams of Skeletal Powder, I add 1ml of Color C & Color D. I also add a few ml of pure Alk with the powder since I use slightly more Alk than Ca. Alk will match Ca as the system matures. So far this seems to keep things balanced.

I intend to run with Red Sea for the foreseeable future. At this point, I will take snapshots of all the corals every month and just need to let it run for awhile before I can reach any conclusions.

 

[GoVols]

Micheal,
I hope you have the same success with the ABC+ and colors C & D.

I stubbled on the ABC+ power last October and two weeks later my reds started getting better and a month later they were on fire.
So, I started the Color's C & D with the ABC+ in January and over time all my colors were popping.

I also dose Red Sea "Reef Energy" just about every evening.
If you start the RE and you see a greyish matter on your live rock, then cut back on the dose.

I dose 15ml of both Reef Energy components but it took awhile before my reef could handle that dose.