I am unable to try the tank bubble-scrub method and compare before and after numbers yet as I have too many changes going on right now to get a "baseline" to compare only the changes (if any) from bubble scrubs....it will likely be some months before I can start that....however, I did try an experiment where I put a wood airstone at my return pump inlet and dialed up the air to just short of the pump losing all suction (absolute maximum amount of air-entrainment via that method) and then documented the quantity of small bubbles in the tank. I then took the same wood airstone and put it in a corner of the tank just off the bottom. I put a very small powerhead above that, so the powerhead circulated the bubbles around the tank, starting near the bottom. As the airstone was just below the discharge of the powerhead I could dial the air flow right up to the maximum air pump output if I so desired. The amount of bubbles I was able to virtually saturate the tank with was significantly increased many - fold. If the gist of the idea is to turn your display tank into a big skimmer for a few hours each night, it would seem it would be far more effective to put the airstone in the tank and circulate it with a powerhead or similar, than at the return pump inlet. On a side note, I run a simple T5 lighting system about 5 inches about the tank surface. The couple of nights I ran the bubbles through my return pump, my lights were encrusted with a fine salt coating from the "mist" or "smoke" that danced arount the water surface, and it was a pain in the *** to clean the lights everyday. By releasing the air near the bottom of the tank and blowing the bubbles around starting much further down in the water column the amount of salt encrusting my lights was significantly less that when the bubbles exited through my spray bar (just below the surface). If/when I get to try it after I get my tank settled out, I will use the display tank airstone method. There is no way I am going to scrub my light hood every day
Cheers!