Might be getting a Reefer 450, Structural Integrity?

[Leyth]

My wife has given me the green light on a reefer 450! Now, I have never owned a tank larger than 17 gallons due to always living in apartments. We have a big house now and finally the space for a larger tank.

Now, my question is are there any structural integrity concerns I should consider with a tank this large or is this not a large enough tank to really worry about that?

The location the tank will be placed is on hard wood floor, against the wall, on the edge of my house with a basement directly below it. Do I need to hire someone to come look at it? The basement is drop ceiling so I can take a look at what is underneath.

 

[Saltine]

First thing you want to check is if the floor supports are going to run opposite the tank or parallel. If opposite, I think your in good shape but I'm sure others with more experience than I will chime in!

Congrats on the Reefer! They are great tanks.

 

[Leyth]

First thing you want to check is if the floor supports are going to run opposite the tank or parallel. If opposite, I think your in good shape but I'm sure others with more experience than I will chime in!

Congrats on the Reefer! They are great tanks.

Ah I will try to take a picture and post it. thanks.

 

[Mark Shelly]

I agree with the above. The best place is a concrete floor. Usually the next best place is the outside wall with the floor joists running perpendicular to the wall to spread the load out to the most joists while keeping the load near the supports. The exception here would be if there is a basement window just under those joists. There have been some good articles on placement, but I did not see them quickly. If you place the tank with the length running parallel to the floor joists, especially in the center of the floor joists, you will see water movement when you walk near it.

 

[blkhwkz]

I have a Reefer XL425 up against an outside wall. The joists run parallel not opposite so it is sitting on 2 joists on a load bearing wall. There was already some cross bracing on the joists and so far (almost 5 months) no issues. You can always get some jack posts from Home Depot/Lowe's/etc if needed. They are cheap and easy solution.

 

[Leyth]

Ok here is a picture directly below where I would like to have the tank. The location the measuring tape is hanging from marks 22" from the wall.

 

[SteveSTL]

Will it be running front to back or side to side in that picture. That I joist with the 2 giant cut outs is worrisome.

 

[Leyth]

Will it be running front to back or side to side in that picture. That I joist with the 2 giant cut outs is worrisome.

 

[Leyth]

Dang, after some research, I think my floor joists are a joke compared to what other houses have in between their basement and main floor.

 

[JaimeAdams]

Dang, after some research, I think my floor joists are a joke compared to what other houses have in between their basement and main floor.

I hate to agree with you on that, but I think you are right.

 

[technojunky101]

I added 4 2x12's to handle weight you don't need that much. Measure size of current joist run couple solid boards from weight bearing wall to another glue and run long lag bolts threw.

 

[SteveSTL]

Those are actually incredibly strong as long as they don't have huge pieces taken out of them and you can span much greater distances with them. While one side is in compression, the other is in tension so they can support massive amounts of weight. However with those big chunks missing I would add a double 2x (whatever size that is along side of it just for some piece of mind). Don't lag or glue it into the existing one - you want to allow that move on its own. Just put one up along side of it reaching from the outside wall to the metal I beam.

 

[Leyth]

Here are more pictures just for reference.

Turning 45 degrees to the right

Turning 180 from original picture, this is where I wanted the tank

 

[SteveSTL]

If it's an odd size (not a 2x12, 2x10, etc.) you could build a floor truss like the one on the outside wall - (2) 2x4s running the length on the bottom with another one on top with small cripple studs every 16 or 24". That could even be built in place.

 

[SteveSTL]

I would also disconnect those wires and re-run them under the wooden I beams. Get some OSB or 1/2" plywood and cut it the same size as the exposed webbing pieces and glue and screw (shear strength) or nail them over the holes on both sides going at least 18" beyond the edges of the holes. Someone really screwed up when they cut those and the building inspector should never have passed that.

 

[JoshH]

I would also disconnect those wires and re-run them under the wooden I beams. Get some OSB or 1/2" plywood and cut it the same size as the exposed webbing pieces and glue and screw (shear strength) or nail them over the holes on both sides going at least 18" beyond the edges of the holes. Someone really screwed up when they cut those and the building inspector should never have passed that.

I strongly agree with Steve here, but I would go further than 18" on either side. take a measurement of the holes in each joist and double it, that's your ideal length past each side. ex. if the hole is 10" from one side to the other than you should go at least 20" on either side making it a 50" piece on both sides of the joist. Some good old PL premium and screws should be plenty to hold them together. As Steve noted above those are engineered floor joists which are actually much more stronger than regular wooden joists and if that hack job wasn't there you wouldn't have much to worry about. I would add some cross bracing between the first 3 joists as well going beyond the depth of the tank.

 

[Leyth]

If it's an odd size (not a 2x12, 2x10, etc.) you could build a floor truss like the one on the outside wall - (2) 2x4s running the length on the bottom with another one on top with small cripple studs every 16 or 24". That could even be built in place.

Think it would be a DIY job or should I look into hiring someone to take a look at do the reinforcing?

I would also disconnect those wires and re-run them under the wooden I beams. Get some OSB or 1/2" plywood and cut it the same size as the exposed webbing pieces and glue and screw (shear strength) or nail them over the holes on both sides going at least 18" beyond the edges of the holes. Someone really screwed up when they cut those and the building inspector should never have passed that.

Sorry, I don't understand what you mean by webbing pieces. Do you mean the octagonal holes that are cut out every foot or so on those plywood pieces?

 

[JoshH]

he is referring to the joist itself, between the top and bottom plate of the joist. And if you have a saw a caulking gun and a drill its definitely something an average home owner is capable of

 

[JoshH]

this might help you a bit

 

[Leyth]

Hahah, I was just drawing it out. Thanks.

So I would essentially just be covering the wholes to connect the two webs right? Are we sure there is no good reason for this to have been done? The entire basement is like this.