Miscellaneous Triton Notes and Comments

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Sangheili

Sangheili

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Hey everyone, I seem to be compiling a list of Notes as I learn more about the Triton method and figured it may be nice to share them in one location. So from time to time (if I remember) I will post interesting things here that will hopefully be of use.
 
Rough Calculation for Estimating dKh consumption while dosing Base Elementz (Based off Balling Light dosing, Base Elementz is similar but slightly more concentrated)

1ml=0.035dKH/100l

Example: 150US gal = 568l. 145/(568/100)*0.035 = 0.89dKh/day consumption​



Base Elementz

Base 1 Includes Alkalinity (unsure if bicarb or carb or mixture) + Some Potassium -- Therefore: Do not use for boosting a low alkalinity independently.​



Notes from Ehsan's talk at Macna

Manganese good forgoniopora and algae to grow
Zinc important forSPS growth - stops burnt tips
Vanadium needed
Iodine needed -consumed by carbon
Pink is SPS fadeswith not enough Boron (b-balance)
Barium binded bymontipora digitat
Strontium needs tobe close to 8 for sps and for recovery from fragging
GFO puts off alittle barium and phosphorus
For example, anaquarium heavily stocked with montipora may require additional zinc or nickelcompared to a similar reef aquarium with no montipora.
AL99 takes upBarium, Chromium, and Arsenic
​



Macros

Good to mix a couple different types of macros. Over time the dominant macro will change depending on type of nutrients availible in tank. Macro die-off is good to some limit, as die-off will release amino acids that will feed the corals. Shoot for 20% of display tank volume.​
 
Last edited:
From a Reef Builders article:

Forexample, Triton Reef can measure the lack of Manganese which he has seen tohave a beneficial effect on Goniopora as first theorized by Julian Sprung overten years ago, Vanadium which really promotes the growth of various filterfeeders like sponges and tunicates, and Zinc & Molybdenum which are bothco-factors for various biological processes. On the other of the spectrum,Barium, Bromide, Aluminum and flippin’ copper are incredibly common industrialcontaminants that seem to occur in even the best of marine aquarium additives,all of which can build up to dangerous levels that noticeably and negativelyimpact coral growth.
 
Apparently Halimeda Algae can go sexual as mine just did. I wouldn't really recommend it for your macro refugium given this :neutral:

As one poster on another board said... "I had this happen in my tank. I was amazed at all the Halimeda that started popping up all over the place. "
 
Tin is given off by fresh PVC piping and many newly setup tanks show some level of Tin in their Triton tests.

Lithium appears to be the secondary ingredient in Tech-M that is the Bryopsis Algae killer. My own personal experience is that once Lithium got above 2000 I saw some lightening in my Zoas and Pasammocora. It did not affect any colors of Acros except I had some unexplained Acro RTN (probably 5-10% of my acro population) that may have been due to longer exposure to the higher Lithium levels (2-3 weeks+).
 
popcorn.gif
 
Sangheili said:
Rough Calculation for Estimating dKh consumption while dosing Base Elementz (Based off Balling Light dosing, Base Elementz is similar but slightly more concentrated)

1ml=0.035dKH/100l

Example: 150US gal = 568l. 145/(568/100)*0.035 = 0.89dKh/day consumption​



Base Elementz

Base 1 Includes Alkalinity (unsure if bicarb or carb or mixture) + Some Potassium -- Therefore: Do not use for boosting a low alkalinity independently.​



Notes from Ehsan's talk at Macna

Manganese good forgoniopora and algae to grow
Zinc important forSPS growth - stops burnt tips
Vanadium needed
Iodine needed -consumed by carbon
Pink is SPS fadeswith not enough Boron (b-balance)
Barium binded bymontipora digitat
Strontium needs tobe close to 8 for sps and for recovery from fragging
GFO puts off alittle barium and phosphorus
For example, anaquarium heavily stocked with montipora may require additional zinc or nickelcompared to a similar reef aquarium with no montipora.
AL99 takes upBarium, Chromium, and Arsenic
​



Macros

Good to mix a couple different types of macros. Over time the dominant macro will change depending on type of nutrients availible in tank. Macro die-off is good to some limit, as die-off will release amino acids that will feed the corals. Shoot for 20% of display tank volume.​
Click to expand...

You said base elementz is more concentrated, but 2part soda ash (Sodium Carbonate) will raise 0.035 dKH with .6ml vs 1.0ml in 100 liters of water. Does 2, 3A and 3B raise alk too?
 
BNUTTHEHUT said:
You said base elementz is more concentrated, but 2part soda ash (Sodium Carbonate) will raise 0.035 dKH with .6ml vs 1.0ml in 100 liters of water. Does 2, 3A and 3B raise alk too?
Click to expand...

That info was based off what one of the Triton UK group members told me and was using Balling as a comparison, not 2part soda ash (I don't know if they are the same concentration).
 
Sangheili said:
It is apparently safe to combine your Iodine dose inside the same container as Elementz 3B and dose together.
Click to expand...

How was that determined? Was it specific for a particular type of iodine additive?

I'd be pretty concerned putting Lugols (containing I2) into a trace metal solution and expect the metals to not become fully oxidized and possibly then insoluble (such as iron). That said, I am not sure what is in 3b.

I'd also be concerned that diluted iodide can become more easily oxidized to iodate, which may not be what some folks are testing for and/or expecting to dose.
 
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Randy Holmes-Farley said:
How was that determined? Was it specific for a particular type of iodine additive?

I'd be pretty concerned putting Lugols (containing I2) into a trace metal solution and expect the metals to not become fully oxidized and possibly then insoluble (such as iron).

I'd also be concerned that diluted iodide can become more easily oxidized to iodate, which may not be what some folks are testing for and/or expecting to dose.
Click to expand...

Randy, your expertise is above my pay grade but i'll add what I know. Elementz 3B is only one of the 4 bottles as you know and may or may not include any of the traces that would have a negative interaction with Iodine.

Also I assume that given the context, this was tested with the Triton Iodine, of which I do not know more specific details regarding its makeup.

I think we need to ask Ehsan for some direct input as the source for this information came from the UK Triton Facebook page and IIRC was from a UK distributer.
 
Sangheili said:
Randy, your expertise is above my pay grade but i'll add what I know. Elementz 3B is only one of the 4 bottles as you know and may or may not include any of the traces that would have a negative interaction with Iodine.

Also I assume that given the context, this was tested with the Triton Iodine, of which I do not know more specific details regarding its makeup.

I think we need to ask Ehsan for some direct input as the source for this information came from the UK Triton Facebook page and IIRC was from a UK distributer.
Click to expand...

Sounds good. :)
 
Thanks for the info Sangheili...you rock! I'm gonna post his info on my local board.

quick recap:

-Important Triton Reef Notes-

Manganese- Is good for Goniopora and Algae growth.

Zinc- Important for SPS growth- Stops burnt tips.

Vanadium- needed for a healthy reef.

Iodine is needed- It’s consumed by carbon.

Pink SPS fades when there’s not enough Boron (b-balance).

Barium- is binded by Montipora digitata.

Strontium- needs to be close to 8 for SPS and for recovery from fragging.

GFO- puts off a little barium and phosphorus.

Zinc and Nickel- A heavily stocked aquarium with Montipora may require additional supplementation of these two elements.

Triton’s AL99 consumes Barium, Chromium, and Arsenic.

Other GFO recommended by Triton is Seachem’s PhosGuard and ROWAphos.

Vanadium- promotes the growth of various filter-feeders like Sponges & Tunicates.

Zinc & Molybdenum- Both are co-factors for various biological processes.

Barium, Bromide, Aluminum, and Copper are incredibly common industrial contaminants that seem to occur in even the best of marine aquarium additives, all of which can build up to dangerous levels that noticeably and negatively impact coral growth and health.

Halimeda Algae- can go sexual and is not a good choice for your macro collection.

GFO takes up (removes) ALK, Cobalt, Copper, Manganese, Silica (a lot), Zinc (a lot). You can find a study done by Advanced Aquarist found below:

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2012/2/chemistry?hc_location=ufi<br /><br />W

High Tin levels reflected on Triton ICP tests are apparently given off by fresh PVC piping and many newly setup reefs are showing some level of Tin.
 
Reefahholic said:
Thanks for the info Sangheili...you rock! I'm gonna post his info on my local board.

quick recap:

-Important Triton Reef Notes-

Manganese- Is good for Goniopora and Algae growth.

Zinc- Important for SPS growth- Stops burnt tips.

Vanadium- needed for a healthy reef.

Iodine is needed- It’s consumed by carbon.

Pink SPS fades when there’s not enough Boron (b-balance).

Barium- is binded by Montipora digitata.

Strontium- needs to be close to 8 for SPS and for recovery from fragging.

GFO- puts off a little barium and phosphorus.

Zinc and Nickel- A heavily stocked aquarium with Montipora may require additional supplementation of these two elements.

Triton’s AL99 consumes Barium, Chromium, and Arsenic.

Other GFO recommended by Triton is Seachem’s PhosGuard and ROWAphos.

Vanadium- promotes the growth of various filter-feeders like Sponges & Tunicates.

Zinc & Molybdenum- Both are co-factors for various biological processes.

Barium, Bromide, Aluminum, and Copper are incredibly common industrial contaminants that seem to occur in even the best of marine aquarium additives, all of which can build up to dangerous levels that noticeably and negatively impact coral growth and health.

Halimeda Algae- can go sexual and is not a good choice for your macro collection.

GFO takes up (removes) ALK, Cobalt, Copper, Manganese, Silica (a lot), Zinc (a lot). You can find a study done by Advanced Aquarist found below:

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2012/2/chemistry?hc_location=ufi<br /><br />W

High Tin levels reflected on Triton ICP tests are apparently given off by fresh PVC piping and many newly setup reefs are showing some level of Tin.
Click to expand...

Are these just personal observations? Where is this info from?

I'm fairly successful with acros, but all of my montis have died or are dying over the last six months. After a water change, they pep up for a few days, but the degrade again. This tells me that my water is missing something that salt mix in my water change provides.

Could it be that I'm low on zinc? I do run GFO.

Also, my acros after multiple years seem to be plateauing. Not dying, but just not growing as much or looking as good as they once did. They also seem more susceptible to burnt tips. Could I be low on zinc? Iodine? Barium? Strontium? Other?

Is the only way to check this stuff to get a triton test?
 

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