Mixed Reef Par Help

nicholas2010e

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I am renting a Par meter for the day and am trying to figure out if I have too much light (I don't think I have too little). I have all types or coral: Acro, montipora, anemone, hammer, torch, favia, zoas, clove polyps, etc. I attached some photos of mappings and want to know what you all think?

(Note, the sps on the sand is new)

1629321974427.png

1629322007524.png


I am also going to try different settings and see what comes up
 
That Duncan is a. It high up. It also should not be able to tolerate the flow that sps do well with.

I would also say the 550 and 510 spots are a bit hot for the acros unless that is part of the day.


Other than that, looks good.
 
I am renting a Par meter for the day and am trying to figure out if I have too much light (I don't think I have too little). I have all types or coral: Acro, montipora, anemone, hammer, torch, favia, zoas, clove polyps, etc. I attached some photos of mappings and want to know what you all think?

(Note, the sps on the sand is new)

1629321974427.png

1629322007524.png


I am also going to try different settings and see what comes up
1629322873094.png
 
That Duncan is a. It high up. It also should not be able to tolerate the flow that sps do well with.

I would also say the 550 and 510 spots are a bit hot for the acros unless that is part of the day.


Other than that, looks good.

The duncan is getting moved for sure.

I have the new currant marine r24 reef leds over my tank.

Do you think I will need anything under 150?
 
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That Duncan is a. It high up. It also should not be able to tolerate the flow that sps do well with.

I would also say the 550 and 510 spots are a bit hot for the acros unless that is part of the day.


Other than that, looks good.
Is there any sps that does good in 500+ par or it generally too much for everything?
 
What par meter are you using?

Seneye par meter is sensitive to blue light, and could be a false reading. If you have the seneye I will look up the article.
 
These acro growers have their stratigy. Slowly raise them and see if new colors form. A lot of them use 350+par
When you get a new color and if the pattern stays consistent they give the acros a morph name. Usually done with wild acropora.
Thats if I read that right.
 
The duncan is getting moved for sure.

I have the new currant marine r24 reef leds over my tank.

Do you think I will need anything under 150?
Depends on what you want to grow... You mentioned "mixed reef" so that could mean many different types of corals.
If you're looking to have some trachys, torches, scolys, and bubbles (to name a few), yes, you will need spots that are less than 150. Trachys and torches do well (IME) around 75-100 par and struggle with anything above 125, unless they are slowly acclimated or indirectly lit/shaded. Scolys prefer much lower light, and 75 can be pushing it at times. Bubbles will do well in 60-75 par.
I too have a mixed reef, but don't intend on growing acropora, so I keep my intensity at 200 top of tank and 75 at bottom.
Hope that helps!
 
Your overall PAR numbers look like what I have seen other's with high-light Acropora aquariums have (although 500+ PAR with LEDs typically requires some careful acclimation, some very high light Acros love it), but your listed intensities (other than those in the shade) would burn a lot of other corals in a true mixed reef tank (as mentioned by 'jassermd' above).

My small mixed reef ranges from ~200 PAR up top (Pavona maldivensis) to as low as ~30 PAR bottom in partial shade (Blastomussa vivida).
 
You’re ok, those numbers will work. As the acros grow they’ll start shadowing the bottom much more. I have a post on the lighting forum that mirrors close to what you have. But I’m my par is much lower near the sand where my elegance and bubble coral is.
2872CAA9-5C15-4B76-8199-599E9AED0DF7.jpeg
BC25E7B5-BD10-4A5B-B22C-435BDADDC2D3.jpeg

This one’s more recent.
image.jpg
 
Is there any sps that does good in 500+ par or it generally too much for everything?

They can do ok and can get neat colors, but their growth may be slowed down. There is a list somewhere of max par levels (photoinhibition above it) for a variety of corals and I think Dana Riddle made it but I can't remember. However, if the acro looks fine and it has good polyp extension, you could probably just leave it there.
 

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