OP
OP
Heres_doe_
Valuable Member
Heres_doe_
Mixed reef with macro?
- Thread starter Heres_doe_
- Start date
- Tagged users None
WheatToast
2500 Club Member
Wow! That was a fast reply! Anyways, your Emerald crab is a major limiting factor for the number of macroalgae species you can keep. However, there are quite a few tougher species (calcium based skeletons or toxic compositions) that could coexist with it (depending on the preferences of your individual). They tend to grow slowly, however, and do not have the same nutrient uptake capabilities of more popular macroalgae, such as Chaetomorpha and Ulva. Here are a few (with links to purchase if available somewhere):
Brown:
Scroll algae (Padina sp.)
Green:
Turtleweed/Maiden's hair plant (Chlorodesmis sp.) (Only toxic one I know on this list though pods enjoy living within it)
Tufted joint algae (Cymopolia barbata)
Watercress algae/Cactus algae (Halimeda sp.)
Brush algae (Penicillus sp.)
Pinecone algae/Christmas tree plant (Rhipocephalus phoenix)
Mermaid’s fan (Udotea sp.)
Red:
Red razor/Flame algae (Bryothamnion sp.)
Thin and Thick branching coralline algae (Corallinales sp.)
Plating coralline algae (Corallinales sp.)
Pink galaxy/Pom Pom algae (Galaxaura sp.)
OP
OP
Heres_doe_
Valuable Member
I'm always on my phone lol but only thing I'm trying to bring down a bit is my phosphates rn my nitrates is easy goes down with water changes but my phosphates are still sitting high at .45 i was at .92 weeks ago so it's a huge improvement but i have more to go
ClownWrangler
Well-Known Member
Caulerpa is risky, so be careful with it. Some types will establish in rockwork and become a nuisance, other larger varieties will go sexual and die out if nitrates get too low. I have been playing around with this for a while. gracilaria hayi and carpeting halimeda seem to be the easiest to work with as they settle in the sandbed and are easy to manage. However they are slow growing, so you will need to start out with a good size portion if you want measurable nitrate removal. Also, if you add halimeda, it will consume calcium, so you need to add extra. Also, you will need to increase the white spectrum for a good part of the day. Many macros don't do well under blue dominant reef lights. Red razor is also nice option. An army of dwarf ceriths will keep nuisance algae from overtaking the macros as well. They are the best IME for this.
The biggest issue for some of the more exotic macros is nitrates being too low. Also, you will want to use Chaeto Gro to help with other nutrients it needs
Yes, I know the BTA under the rock is not doing so well. I think it had a bacterial infection from the start,
Also, Id like to note that the amount of macro you see in these tanks removes the nitrates and phosphates for a single clown pair such that water changes are not needed. (no skimmer) If phosphates get high, I just add a little nitrate to balance things out.
The biggest issue for some of the more exotic macros is nitrates being too low. Also, you will want to use Chaeto Gro to help with other nutrients it needs
Yes, I know the BTA under the rock is not doing so well. I think it had a bacterial infection from the start,
Also, Id like to note that the amount of macro you see in these tanks removes the nitrates and phosphates for a single clown pair such that water changes are not needed. (no skimmer) If phosphates get high, I just add a little nitrate to balance things out.
Last edited:
ClownWrangler
Well-Known Member
Kinda hard to see but I keep caulerpa / chaeto in the DT, just need to trim caulerpa weekly otherwise it can take over lol
I actually had more of an issue with chaeto taking over when i tried that.
Paleozoic_reefer
Valuable Member
Sorry I don't...My wife says I don't need any more distractions....
OP
OP
Heres_doe_
Valuable Member
So i decided to go with some dragons breath. I have 3 emerald crabs busy cleaning the rocks i hope they don't pick at the macro. But I'm taking my chances once everything starts to get better I'll remove them.
OP
OP
Heres_doe_
Valuable Member
If it's free it's for meI have caulerpa in my tank, It came in on my live rock and I just let it grow. I like the look of it, I pull a few handfuls out every now and then so it wont take over.
ClownWrangler
Well-Known Member
So i decided to go with some dragons breath. I have 3 emerald crabs busy cleaning the rocks i hope they don't pick at the macro. But I'm taking my chances once everything starts to get better I'll remove them.
Dragons breath is like candy for amphipods, so good luck with that. I had a frag that size disappear over night and found a couple of huge amphipods in the partition with it (in a fry box) nibbling on the scraps. You could see their guts loaded with red. Caught red handed. I have suspected emerald crabs of eating macro as well, but cant say for certain.
hawk82
Well-Known Member
ahhh so maybe thats what happened to mine.
OP
OP
Heres_doe_
Valuable Member
We'll see if not on to the next algae lol
Subsea
5000 Club Member
[Also, Id like to note that the amount of macro you see in these tanks removes the nitrates and phosphates for a single clown pair such that water changes are not needed. (no skimmer) If phosphates get high, I just add a little nitrate to balance things out.]
@ClownWrangler
Thank you for above. I operate an ornamental seaweed tank with two differrent Caulerpa, three different dragons breath, Bortacladia and several other red macros that I can’t identity. The art to maintaining stability in tank is too recognize nutrient deprivation when it starts. My best indicator is when some fronds on feather Caulerpa Paspoidies begin to turn white. I usually add ammonia & Chaeto Grow.
Picture #1 is in 4 month set up 55G. Note slight white frond on Caulerpa Paspoidie.
Picture #2 is in same tank. Note white translucent frond on dragons breath from Florida.
Picture #3 is in 30G tank set up at same time. Note white on Caulerpa Paspoidie.
I like operating where fast growing macros are bioindicators for “old school” nutrient management.
@ClownWrangler
Thank you for above. I operate an ornamental seaweed tank with two differrent Caulerpa, three different dragons breath, Bortacladia and several other red macros that I can’t identity. The art to maintaining stability in tank is too recognize nutrient deprivation when it starts. My best indicator is when some fronds on feather Caulerpa Paspoidies begin to turn white. I usually add ammonia & Chaeto Grow.
Picture #1 is in 4 month set up 55G. Note slight white frond on Caulerpa Paspoidie.
Picture #2 is in same tank. Note white translucent frond on dragons breath from Florida.
Picture #3 is in 30G tank set up at same time. Note white on Caulerpa Paspoidie.
I like operating where fast growing macros are bioindicators for “old school” nutrient management.
Attachments
Subsea
5000 Club Member
I group Emerald Crabs with Urchins when it comes to a macro tank. Get snails & pods established to handle nuisance algae.
That‘s a lot of blue light for a macro tank.
That‘s a lot of blue light for a macro tank.
So i decided to go with some dragons breath. I have 3 emerald crabs busy cleaning the rocks i hope they don't pick at the macro. But I'm taking my chances once everything starts to get better I'll remove them.
dvgyfresh
2500 Club Member
I used to have a refugium and did not water change, I read somewhere about DOC and macro algae eventually leading to something bad in reefs and that the no water change method would eventually crash , is this true? I have no idea lol
Subsea
5000 Club Member
when things get out of balance, even good things are bad.
All photosynthetic organisms produce DOC, dissolved organic carbon. Corals DOC is mainly composed of lipids & proteins while algae DOC is mostly glucose.
@dvgyfresh
I think excessive glucose in water column shifts balance of bacteria types that can be detrimental to certain coral types, especially SPS.
Last edited:
Subsea
5000 Club Member
Depending on specific coral types and the degree of imbalance, it is life threatening. That’s why I operate high nutrient systems with a mixed garden, less SPS. The tanks I showed are skimmerless, sumpless and zero water changes for 4 months.
