Modification question

dantimdad

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Not entirely sure this should go here.

I have been given a Kessil a350w Tuna Blue.

The power supply doesn't work and the light only flashes when hooked to a known good power supply.


Talked to Kessil. No way to fix.

So, since I know it was only used for a year and the LED matrix still lights briefly, I was wondering if anyone would know the pinouts to the matrix? Would be fun to see how much control I could get over it. Plus, I have a bunch of different dimmable drivers laying around doing nothing.

Obviously, I hold no one responsible and it's shot anyway so, let me know if you have information, please.

No, I am not going to throw it out and buy a replacement. This is just for a project to have some fun tinkering.
 
Fuses live probe with adjustable voltage . Find the grounds first and go slow.. I have never seen inside one of those lights so only guessing.
 
I would have thought someone would have figured it out since so many have reported these dying after a while.

It would be cool if, as a community, we could raise a few of these from the dead.

It's not going to cut into their business because the guys like me who tinker probably won't be the normal purchasers anyhow.
 
you have to open one apart and start probing with multimeter/ oscilloscope. I dont have a spare/bad one that I can tear apart :-( . Are you sure your power supply is not the issue? what other diagnostics you have run and what type of tools/electronics expertise you have ? I can guide you remotely, but that would only work if you have patience/tools
 
I have the tools available.

I tried another power supply.

I found out why the fan was not working the + wire has come loose at the motor. May not use it anyway and go for a 12v one later on.

I have been building led setups and guitar effects pedals for years.

The funny thing is, I am color blind. My sons always help. :D

But, in this case, all the wires except for two are black so color blindness doesn't come into play.

I have very good meters with diode checkers. Honestly never had to use that part. So, I will have to brush up on it.
 
The funny thing is, I am color blind. My sons always help. :D

But, in this case, all the wires except for two are black so color blindness doesn't come into play.
Are you sure they are black? :confused: :p
 
Are you sure they are black? :confused: :p

Sure, pick on the handicapped kid.

LOL!

The first thing people do when they find out I am colorblind is "what color is this?" Now, I ask you, would you walk up to someone in a wheel chair and say "Try and walk for me so I know for sure you are handicapped."

It's hilarious to me now. When I was a kid, it was bad because people actually play tricks on you.

I wore a pink shirt for 3 years that I would have sworn was gray. My ex wife and my best friend both knew it and didn't say a thing. I was in walmart and a woman said "It takes a confident man to wear that shade of pink" That shirt got ripped off and thrown away as soon as I got home. :D
 
So, here is a close up of the back of the matrix LED.

IMG_20181107_071428843.jpg
 
IMG_20181107_085545298.jpg


So I decided, after seeing a picture of the exact model array on DiCon's website, to go ahead and finish removing the led from the holder. It was siliconed to the face plate.

The center two wires appear to be temperature. The other wires are all 12 or 13 volts +/-

Since there are 50 LEDs and the power draw is a max of 90 watts, I am going to try and figure out which driver I have to use and run them at 350ma to start.

If I fry them, I can always reuse the fixture for a cree array like I did with a dead Jebao knock off.
 
I am betting that these actually can run at 1 amp. I would highly doubt you are going to get more than that out of it because of the size of the heat sink and fan.

So since this is a total of 50volts@1000ma that means it's running at 50 watts.
 
Not a silicone but a special thermal adhesive. Just an FYI in case you're going to re-assemble things.

It's really rubbery like high temp silicone. It was just used as a sealant. The 360s have an O ring. The actual attachment to the heat sink is thermal grease and screws.
 
As far as reassembly, I would love to get ahold of two more of these and build a more controllable multi-array light.

That would be really fun.
 
It just dawned on me, it doesn't mean 13 and 12 volt. It means that's the number of chips on that channel. No way these are running at one volt per chip.

It would make sense that they are running 48 volts to a channel max. then probably 700 ma. Luckily, I have drivers that will handle testing in this range.

Again, it was free so if I kill it...
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

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