Modifying my tank stand

As an expert stand builder, I'd recommend you do NOT modify your existing stand. you could be asking for trouble.

I've seen so many people just not use common sense over the years and then get on the forums and complain that their tank leaked, all because the stand was wrong for the tank. Hand to forehead!
 
I've built many stands and canopies in my time and have a very good understanding of the structural requirements to properly support a tank and its weight.

This stand design is considered by many in the hobby as a "rocket engineer" stand, because of how the vertical supports are built. (For those who don't know, "Rocket Engineer" was on RC back in the day and came up with this design.) My current stand is a "Rocket" stand design.

The stand and tank pictures that the OP posted CANNOT be used together as is. The reason why is that the tanks lip has to set directly on top of the 2"x4" frame below, all the way around. If the tank sits just on the plywood, the plywood top can't support all that weight long term and will sag. This could compromise the tanks silicone seams causing a catastrophic failure.

As far as taking it apart and cutting parts and pieces......... you could, but if the builder builds them like I do, everything is wood glued and screwed together making it impossible to modify.

Look for a stand that is meant for the tank or a tank for the existing stand and you will be much happier in the end.


If the OP adds cross braces across the top of the stand frame, would that compensate for the tank lip not being on the 2x4s? I love the look of having a shelf around the tank and would want something like that if ever upgrade.
 
If the OP adds cross braces across the top of the stand frame, would that compensate for the tank lip not being on the 2x4s? I love the look of having a shelf around the tank and would want something like that if ever upgrade.

No, even weight distribution around the tank lip is critical. Some say that you can get away with just the ends of the tank supported only, but I've never thought that was a good idea. This applies ONLY to rimmed tanks! Acrylic tanks need to be supported completely underneath.

Center brace only supporting the whole weight of the tank, in the middle of the tank, will put excessive stress on the tank seams.

If you want a shelf around the tank, build the stand to support the tank completely underneath and plywood the top to allow for your shelf to hang over. That way the tank weight is supported directly underneath and you have your shelf that can be tiled, trimmed or just painted to accent the stand.
 
I think it looks just fine the way it is. You have a shelf to set your beer on while enjoying the tank.
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Seriously, it is nice to have a stand with plenty of room for equipment on the inside. Makes it a lot easier to work on than something that is more cramped. There are some very nice systems here on R2R with stands built that way intentionally. One in particular that comes to mind has some very nice tile-work around the extra space around the tank. I'd leave it just the way it is.

I sincerely agree with the part about beer placement and the stand looks fine the way it is. I just think that Fat Cat needs to spend a lot of money on a new system with upgraded equipment expensive everything. This hobby is good for people with impulse control issues.
 
If the OP adds cross braces across the top of the stand frame, would that compensate for the tank lip not being on the 2x4s? I love the look of having a shelf around the tank and would want something like that if ever upgrade.

The perimeter of the tank does not need to rest directly over the structure underneath.

1) The "structure" underneath is completely unnecessary. A very strong stand can be made from 4/4 lumber with a 1/4" plywood insert and a 4/4 top sitting on top. Just dado the inside for a plywood panel and glue the plywood panel in. Plywood does not expand so wood movement won't be an issue and 3 of those panels will be strong enough to support several hundred pounds. Recommended to have your rails full length top and bottom and your stiles short so the weight is spread along the length and width of the stand. The rails on the front can be just top and bottom and doweled into the sides rails. That will give you exposed end grain so you could always to a dado to cover the side rail endgrain and give the front some interest. (just be sure to do the same top and bottom so the door line up).

2) Put plywood or 4/4 lumber on the top and center the tank. The top will carry the weight to the sides and then down to the floor. If you're going to use 4/4 lumber for this, I would NOT use pine, cedar, alder, etc. Stick to a hardwood such as oak, maple or cherry and be sure that the sides are jointed, doweled and glued. Since this is beyond most people, just use 3/4" A/C plywood and put some trim on the sides to hide the plies.

To the OP, yes you can most likely take it apart and recut it the exact dimensions of the tank but it's going to be a lot of work and if they used a decent glue (though from the gaps, I'm not sure how much contact there actually is). It comes down to your time vs. new material. Looks like they just used drywall screws which have to shear strength and will zip right out. Then a thin flatbar to take the 2x4s apart. Cut the back and 1 side to get the dimension you want.

Another option would be to center the tank and then use crown or bedding molding that goes from the stand up to the tank to give it a "Built in" look. You'll have extra space on the back side but that's a good place to store food, supplements, etc.
 
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Thank you everyone... although I am probably more confused on what to do now than before because it sounds like I can't even use the stand as it is. It was sold to me by someone else who used this tank and stand together, but I have no idea how long they had it up and running.
 
Exactly! I'm guessing the op is not skilled enough to accomplish the task of modify this stand correctly (hence her asking the question to begin with), so it's easier (and better) to say get a new stand built. :)

I've seen so many people just not use common sense over the years and then get on the forums and complain that their tank leaked, all because the stand was wrong for the tank. Hand to forehead!
 
Let's look at the numbers for my tank:

Water weighs in at 8.34 lbs per gallon.
(Saltwater weighs in a little more at 8.6)

8.34 x 125 = 1,042 lbs

Add rock of 150 lbs

1042+150= 1,192 lbs

Add sand at 60 lbs

1,192 + 60 = 1,252 lbs

Add tank weight of 150lbs

1,252 + 150 = 1,402 lbs

1,402 lbs sitting on just plywood isn't going to stable for very long and I wouldn't feel comfortable knowing that.

1,402 lbs of static weight sitting there in one spot for years.

Others may think and say its no problem, then again it's not their tank, their money and their house/apartment. The stand the OP bought was clearly built for a larger tank and was sold a tank that wasn't intended for that stand. The seller doesn't care, he sold it and got his money and now it's the buyers responsibility.

Think about it. Why would anyone build that, what looks to be a well thought out design and good build, for a smaller tank that clearly isn't correct for it?

Just look at factory stands, they all support the lip of the tank. That should speak volumes.

Fat cat, good luck with whatever you choose.
 
If the support around the tank lip isn't level with no support directly under it going to the floor you're asking for a cracked tank.
Also never build a tank stand to sit on 4x4 horizontally 4x4 are for vertical construction.
What size is the tank and how big is this stand?
 
Exactly! I'm guessing the op is not skilled enough to accomplish the task of modify this stand correctly (hence her asking the question to begin with), so it's easier (and better) to say get a new stand built. :)
oh I definitely couldn't do it without help, I do know someone who would be skilled enough to rebuild a stand, but I wanted to find out if it was a bad idea from people who have worked with tank stands specifically first.

I have decided not to modify it. Thanks everyone.
 
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If the support around the tank lip isn't level with no support directly under it going to the floor you're asking for a cracked tank.
Also never build a tank stand to sit on 4x4 horizontally 4x4 are for vertical construction.
What size is the tank and how big is this stand?
The tank is 57 gallons (36x18" footprint) and the stand is 43"x26" footprint. It currently sits on a support beam in the back and a center support that runs perpendicular to that
 
Let's look at the numbers for my tank:

Water weighs in at 8.34 lbs per gallon.
(Saltwater weighs in a little more at 8.6)

8.34 x 125 = 1,042 lbs

Look at her first message - it's a 57 gallon tank so your numbers don't really relate. Also, as you add rock, sand, etc. you need to deduct the weight of the water displaced by the rock, sand, etc. (see Archimedes)

If the support around the tank lip isn't level with no support directly under it going to the floor you're asking for a cracked tank.
Also never build a tank stand to sit on 4x4 horizontally 4x4 are for vertical construction.
What size is the tank and how big is this stand?

4/4 lumber and 4x4s are 2 completely different things. The tank is a standard 57 gallons 18 x 36.

Look at how your kitchen cabinets are built. They are all 4/4 wood or plywood (or even veneered particle board). Add a few hundred lbs for granite and you can put a 57 gallon tank on that all day long.
 
I would welcome the extra depth in the stand and leave it. I'd love to have an extra 5 inches in mine.......

That's what she said? Sorry I couldn't resist.
 
Look at her first message - it's a 57 gallon tank so your numbers don't really relate. Also, as you add rock, sand, etc. you need to deduct the weight of the water displaced by the rock, sand, etc. (see Archimedes)



4/4 lumber and 4x4s are 2 completely different things. The tank is a standard 57 gallons 18 x 36.

Look at how your kitchen cabinets are built. They are all 4/4 wood or plywood (or even veneered particle board). Add a few hundred lbs for granite and you can put a 57 gallon tank on that all day long.
When was I ever replying about 4/4 lumber lol?
I was stating don't let use 4x4 for horizontal construction so many make that mistake and end up with an unlevel stand and it cracks the tank.
Kitchen counter tops have multiple vertical supports how is this even relevant to the conversion of her wanting to cutoff some of the stand to better fit the tank.

Also maybe it the mobile app but the #1 post doesn't say anything about tank size...
 
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The tank is 57 gallons (36x18" footprint) and the stand is 43"x26" footprint. It currently sits on a support beam in the back and a center support that runs perpendicular to that
Only thing I would worry about is the tank not sitting on the edge of the stand all the way around.
How thick is the wood on top will determine if it going to hold as is.
All fish tank stands should sit on a boarder around the tank edges imo then supported vertically with wood.

I've seen people float the tank to support on each corner sitting on 4x4 with 2x4 wrapped around the outside to cover the bottom of the plastic trim on the tank and I just cringe.
One day the silicone going to break and their going to have a crack up the side of their tank or even worse it just collapses.

If you can't cut it down have someone or build a new one just for that tank is my suggestion.
 
Come on gentlemen. .it's not worth the time to argue....spend that time on enjoying your tanks
Who arguing lol I'm just clearing up a complete oversight by someone only reading and comprehending what they wanna understand at the time.
Not what was actually stated then they obviously went on to an assumption of sort so they could feel smarter then the next person to help uplift their self-esteem.

Multiple supports vertically with a concrete type material is going to support a lot of weight but it has nothing to do with a fish tank stand and is irrelevant to the conversation IMO.
 
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Hall table

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Movable kitchen island build for friends built from walnut from her childhood home and barnboards from his.

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3300 year old Irish Bog Oak commissioned for the Uachtarán na hÉireann (President of Ireland)

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(Commissioned for a Grandmaster here in town)


That's right. I have to come on to a reef board to lift my self esteem because my body of work doesn't speak for itself.
I try and help answer questions from people who don't have a strong understanding about wood, design, and construction but there always seems to be someone like you who is more interested in tearing down than building up or learning from someone who might possibly just have a little more knowledge than them. By God, they own a chop saw and a Kreg and that makes them a master woodworker.


All fish tank stands should sit on a boarder around the tank edges imo then supported vertically with wood.

You might want to see what Mark Twain had to say about removing all doubt.

I'm sure you'll feel a need to get the last word in so be my guest.
 

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