AquaBert
Community Member
I do have a leather coral, so I thought the same. But most of the softies are not aggressive. Now potassium. I haven’t tested for that but I also assume since I make water changes it should be ok.
Montipora Bleaching, Expert needed
- Thread starter AquaBert
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AquaBert
Community Member
If so it isn’t showing up on tests. I also use 2 different testing kits to ensure one isn’t off.
Lavey29
10K Club member
How do you test trace elements? What are you dosing?
AquaBert
Community Member
I don’t test trace elements. I’m dosing 2 things.
AB+, 1 ml a day
Seachem trace elements. Once a week now
Lavey29
10K Club member
Because your low light just added to the coral stress and the infection took over. If you move a coral from a favorable environment and place it in an unfavorable environment they get stressed and develop infections which lead to unfavorable results.
Its fascinating to watch umpires like Borat draw opposite conclusions in spite of seven work threads linked with outcomes / saves on file while posting no links whatsoever
we just talked about the dichotomy between what works for us vs what works for others, you’d think we’d see some bleach prevention links provided for the counter claim.
by all means, keep raising that light power
there isn’t a par you’d chase, I mentioned multiple times not to use the meter. You’re still using it to set goals though
you‘d remove white spectrum during bleach events, I dont even use any whites on my lighting
reduce blues mix down substantially from where it’s at now
increase high quality spot feeding and water change frequency and slowly raise up the blue mix power over a few week’s time until you notice a change in algae removal work due + glass cleaning work due and stop there. Slightly lower light levels isn’t going to harm your sps when good feed is in place.
nobody referenced your alk before telling you of an ideal par? Nobody mentioned even if you stated an alk level it probably isn’t correct…test misreads searchable among alk kits
there isn’t a way to chase a known par goal safely due to unstated variables found in outbound jobs (jobs where the tank isn’t in our own home)
we just talked about the dichotomy between what works for us vs what works for others, you’d think we’d see some bleach prevention links provided for the counter claim.
by all means, keep raising that light power
there isn’t a par you’d chase, I mentioned multiple times not to use the meter. You’re still using it to set goals though
you‘d remove white spectrum during bleach events, I dont even use any whites on my lighting
reduce blues mix down substantially from where it’s at now
increase high quality spot feeding and water change frequency and slowly raise up the blue mix power over a few week’s time until you notice a change in algae removal work due + glass cleaning work due and stop there. Slightly lower light levels isn’t going to harm your sps when good feed is in place.
nobody referenced your alk before telling you of an ideal par? Nobody mentioned even if you stated an alk level it probably isn’t correct…test misreads searchable among alk kits
there isn’t a way to chase a known par goal safely due to unstated variables found in outbound jobs (jobs where the tank isn’t in our own home)
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Lavey29
10K Club member
Well if you don't test trace elements even periodically via ICP tests how do you know what to dose and how much to dose? It's the same for the primary elements like all and cal. If you don't test these regularly you won't know if you need to dose or not although as mentioned previously nano tanks with weekly water changes should not require dosing at all unless packed with SPS corals. Leather corals can release turpenes in the water which may be toxic to SPS corals. You need to run carbon with leather corals in the tank. Remember also if you choose to increase light intensity do it incrementally like 1% per day.
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In theme with referring you to others tanks vs my own, see this pico reef below. It has about three grand worth of sps in it for nine years straight it’s my friends reef. I consider it the nicest pico reef on the planet, nobody’s throw together young/no age Instagram nano reef can beat this decade old one
do you see how overall dim (and blue not white) the lighting is? That’s incredibly low par, with shading and with top shelf sps growth they have to cut out with pliers to make room for the other corals
the opposite of chasing par did that, you can too
feed quality, consistency and water change regularity got those results, not par chasing
par doesn’t even factor in its success
do you see how overall dim (and blue not white) the lighting is? That’s incredibly low par, with shading and with top shelf sps growth they have to cut out with pliers to make room for the other corals
the opposite of chasing par did that, you can too
feed quality, consistency and water change regularity got those results, not par chasing
par doesn’t even factor in its success
Borat
Valuable Member
My plating montipora is placed 2cm from water level (so as close to light as ever possible) under a light fixture that's drawing 300w (cree white + blue + royal blue). So that's super-par I think. I am generally a believer that most SPS in reef tanks receive not enough light - in most cases.Its fascinating to watch umpires like Borat draw opposite conclusions in spite of seven work threads linked with outcomes / saves on file while posting no links whatsoever
we just talked about the dichotomy between what works for us vs what works for others, you’d think we’d see some bleach prevention links provided for the counter claim.
by all means, keep raising that light power
there isn’t a par you’d chase, I mentioned multiple times not to use the meter. You’re still using it to set goals though
you‘d remove white spectrum during bleach events, I dont even use any whites on my lighting
reduce blues mix down substantially from where it’s at now
increase high quality spot feeding and water change frequency and slowly raise up the blue mix power over a few week’s time until you notice a change in algae removal work due + glass cleaning work due and stop there. Slightly lower light levels isn’t going to harm your sps when good feed is in place.
nobody referenced your alk before telling you of an ideal par? Nobody mentioned even if you stated an alk level it probably isn’t correct…test misreads searchable among alk kits
there isn’t a way to chase a known par goal safely due to unstated variables found in outbound jobs (jobs where the tank isn’t in our own home)
Generally my 4 foot tank is currently lit by 450w of light - and most corals are quite high up. I haven't seen anything not liking this much light and I have various montipora, lots of acropora, some zoas. Everyone loves lots of light..
As for flow - the only ones that didn't like too much flow was hammers, I could never keep them for longer than 3 months.
adammarcos
Community Member
If it went from a good stable environment into a tank that does not have a favorable environment.
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