Montipora issue

[DanyL]

Flow and light does matter as it can shock the coral. The coral has been dipped in coral RX which is one of the best on the market. . . Why would he turn around and iodine dip it and stress the coral more and then shove it under bright light?
A dip will stress a coral before acclimation does.

I don't think you understood the situation correctly, or what comment I was referring to.

First - Coral Rx while it is a great dip, it is mostly useful against pests and can be sometimes hard on some corals.
Second of all - The tissue receded the day after it was introduced to the system, hence why an Iodine dip is advised now.
Third - I explicitly said high PAR isn't a good idea for a stressed coral, not otherwise.
Forth - Some flow is needed, and I mentioned this. Lack of flow will not make the tissue receded by itself overnight.

 

[Graemesreef]

Every coral I've ever dipped in rx goes straight in a lugol's bath rite after especially montipora. Never used one without the other. If you dont see improvement there is absolutely nothing wrong with iodine it can only help.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I don't think you understood the situation correctly, or what comment I was referring to.

First - Coral Rx while it is a great dip, it is mostly useful against pests and can be sometimes hard on some corals.
Second of all - The tissue receded the day after it was introduced to the system, hence why an Iodine dip is advised now.
Third - I explicitly said high PAR isn't a good idea for a stressed coral, not otherwise.
Forth - Some flow is needed, and I mentioned this. Lack of flow will not make the tissue receded by itself overnight.

Coral dip is to assure there are no pests(why we dip) and guard against those visibly seen. Yes the dip will stress it temporarily and hence the recession. Like most coral when there is low light and flow, especially with Euphyllia, there is bound to be recession whereas too much flow will cause tissue damage and too much light tissue burn or bleaching.
As long as he is as advised bringing the intensity up gradually, that risk will be reduced.
It is perhaps a misunderstanding on my part what you were saying but he was explained to as measures and when you state light or flow doesnt matter- it is essential for this type of coral.
With this coral acclimated over an hour, I don't believe temp or salinity would shock it this quickly.

 

[DanyL]

stress it temporarily and hence the recession

That's the thing - it'll stress it, but it shouldn't recede just because of the dip.
It is just additional stress to an already stressed coral that was about to be even more stressed when introduced to a new environment.

Like most coral when there is low light and flow, especially with Euphyllia, there is bound to be recession whereas too much flow will cause tissue damage and too much light tissue burn or bleaching.

Too low - Not overnight, not even in 2 or 3 days.
Not with Acros, Montis, nor Euphyllias.

Too high - definitely.

As long as he is as advised bringing the intensity up gradually, that risk will be reduced.

That's always true, and I did mention it'll eventually need to be moved to higher PAR area.
I did not mention that it needs to be gradually introduced, true. but it also wasn't the matter we were discussing.
We can always bring tips for later care, but it's a bonus - not a requirement, nor a bad thing not to mention every general caring step down the road when it isn't the main, and urgent subject.

nd when you state light or flow doesnt matter- it is essential for this type of coral.

You're taking my words out of context.

With this coral acclimated over an hour, I don't believe temp or salinity would shock it this quickly.

Temperature damage can also be done by putting a coral in 30 C degrees for 10 mere minutes, or 20 C degrees for an hour. No matter how slow you'll drip acclimate it later on, it is bound to show signs of stress and may recede.
For a 2 hour long ride back home, in the winter, maybe under snow. who knows what temperatures the coral have been through.

And as far as salinity goes, you'll be surprised but some people not realize their salinity is way off due to a calibration error. The corals that are already in the system slowly acclimated to it over weeks, sometimes months, however for a new, stressed coral it can be harsh.

 

[vetteguy53081]

That's the thing - it'll stress it, but it shouldn't recede just because of the dip.
It is just additional stress to an already stressed coral that was about to be even more stressed when introduced to a new environment.

Too low - Not overnight, not even in 2 or 3 days.
Not with Acros, Montis, nor Euphyllias.

Too high - definitely.

That's always true, and I did mention it'll eventually need to be moved to higher PAR area.
I did not mention that it needs to be gradually introduced, true. but it also wasn't the matter we were discussing.
We can always bring tips for later care, but it's a bonus - not a requirement, nor a bad thing not to mention every general caring step down the road when it isn't the main, and urgent subject.

You're taking my words out of context.

Temperature damage can also be done by putting a coral in 30 C degrees for 10 mere minutes, or 20 C degrees for an hour. No matter how slow you'll drip acclimate it later on, it is bound to show signs of stress and may recede.
For a 2 hour long ride back home, in the winter, maybe under snow. who knows what temperatures the coral have been through.

And as far as salinity goes, you'll be surprised but some people not realize their salinity is way off due to a calibration error. The corals that are already in the system slowly acclimated to it over weeks, sometimes months, however for a new, stressed coral it can be harsh.

I do realize on the salinity in fact many pet stores are not even aware. I myself owned an LFS many years and people needed a long explanation about salinity. Thank goodness for digital testers and refractometers
Seems were on the same page . . . All good !!

 

[Manny’s Reef]

There is none other than stress. Im very shocked of the advice given. To tell one to chop up a nice piece of coral, the green one below (pic) was received with partial dead tissue on bottom and 70% has been restored and still filling in.

ummm. . . . that's not necessarily what was said. Did you read the whole comment? I mentioned that if the recession doesn't stop, chopping it up to save it might be the way to go. But I also stated, immediately after, that its a hard coral and that most likely, it will recover.

 

[vetteguy53081]

ummm. . . . that's not necessarily what was said. Did you read the whole comment?

This wasnt for you- All good

 

[Graemesreef]

ummm. . . . that's not necessarily what was said. Did you read the whole comment? I mentioned that if the recession doesn't stop, chopping it up to save it might be the way to go. But I also stated, immediately after, that its a hard coral and that most likely, it will recover.

My apologies, just cant sit back and watch people ask each other if they read the whole thing when its clear as day that one person "unnamed" has already gotten squashed. Are you still here?

 

[HudsonReefer2.0]

I did a 1 hour drip acclimation so where the water doubled after 1 hour then a 5 min dip in coral rx pro then dunked in water from the tank to remove dip then set it on the sand bed. For now I moved it to middle / top where my other sps are with good flow and lighting .

Really don’t need to drip acclimate corals and coral rx is a harsher dip for sps

 

[Manny’s Reef]

My apologies, just cant sit back and watch people ask each other if they read the whole thing when its clear as day that one person "unnamed" has already gotten squashed. Are you still here?

Not sure what you’re getting at

 

[DanyL]

Not sure what you’re getting at

He wasn't referring to you, but to that other person that persistently stirred away the conversation from what actually matters and taken things out of their context, for what seems to me like a forced controversy. Weird things ngl.

 

[Manny’s Reef]

He wasn't referring to you, but to that other person that persistently stirred away the conversation from what actually matters and taken things out of their context, for what seems to me like a forced controversy. Weird things ngl.

Hard to decipher. He quoted my reply. He mentioned advice about cutting up a coral. I was the only one who mentioned cutting up the coral. I’ve read through this twice over to verify. Reasonable to believe he’s talking to me, despite fragments of other responses.

 

[DanyL]

Hard to decipher. He quoted my reply. He mentioned advice about cutting up a coral. I was the only one who mentioned cutting up the coral. I’ve read through this twice over to verify. Reasonable to believe he’s talking to me, despite fragments of other responses.

Yeah, that guy definitely targeted your comment, and mine as well in other posts in this thread.
I had to reread my own comments as well, because he twisted my words, taken them out of context much like he did with you.

That's also who @Graemesreef was referring to, apologizing for the fact you and I had to deal with that guys controversial attitude. Seems like it wasn't his first time doing it.
Still not sure if it was just a misunderstanding or some type of ego going on, all I know is that it wasn't pleasant.

 

[Leadfooted]

Really don’t need to drip acclimate corals and coral rx is a harsher dip for sps

Someone reached out to me 10 years ago and told me the same so now I'm telling you. +1 here on this, I killed many SPS doing this drip acclimation like I would for fish.

Now they're dipped and in the tank in 17 minutes not another second. Maybe not 100% the problem but you need to speed that acclimation time up. I float the coral for4 min for temp acclamation , 4 min bayer dip, 4 min rinse dip, 3 min rinse dip and finally a 2 min rinse dip, all in separate containers of course. Best of luck with this grafted piece.

 

[thatmanMIKEson]

Really don’t need to drip acclimate corals and coral rx is a harsher dip for sps

Exactly my thought reading thru this

 

[anthonygf]

Someone reached out to me 10 years ago and told me the same so now I'm telling you. +1 here on this, I killed many SPS doing this drip acclimation like I would for fish.

Now they're dipped and in the tank in 17 minutes not another second. Maybe not 100% the problem but you need to speed that acclimation time up. I float the coral for4 min for temp acclamation , 4 min bayer dip, 4 min rinse dip, 3 min rinse dip and finally a 2 min rinse dip, all in separate containers of course. Best of luck with this grafted piece.

I don't think a 1 hour floating the bag acclimation period after a 2 hour trip is a problem. Heck, when purchased on-line they can spend 24 hours in the same bag. When floating the bag I would turn the lights off or place in sump with no light. I don't think 4 minutes for temp acclimation would be enough, when I float the bag I check the temp of bag water and one instance took close to ten minutes for the temp to match the tank water. I think it may depend on temp and size of bag. A pint size bag may only take 4 minutes where as a gallon size may take 20 minutes.

edit, but if it works okay for you may be good enough.

 

[Leadfooted]

I don't think a 1 hour floating the bag acclimation period after a 2 hour trip is a problem. Heck, when purchased on-line they can spend 24 hours in the same bag. When floating the bag I would turn the lights off or place in sump with no light. I don't think 4 minutes for temp acclimation would be enough, when I float the bag I check the temp of bag water and one instance took close to ten minutes for the temp to match the tank water. I think it may depend on temp and size of bag. A pint size bag may only take 4 minutes where as a gallon size may take 20 minutes.

edit, but if it works okay for you may be good enough.

Reduce the water volume in the bag you float but I was not referring to that.

I was referring to you saying a 1 hour drip acclimation, that's completely different.

 

[anthonygf]

Reduce the water volume in the bag you float but I was not referring to that.

I was referring to you saying a 1 hour drip acclimation, that's completely different.

Reducing the water volume in the bag before floating is a great idea, and would reduce float time. I didn't say anything about drip, but I don't do it for corals or fish.

 

[Leadfooted]

Reducing the water volume in the bag before floating is a great idea, and would reduce float time. I didn't say anything about drip, but I don't do it for corals or fish.

My apologies bud , that was Spencer who suggested that.