Most Needed Test Kits?

[Billldg]

I use the Hanna LR phosphate checker as they didnt have the ULR out yet, they read the same, the only difference is that the ULR has a tighter variance and a tighter margin of error, they both read to 0.00 ppm, so either way you can't go wrong.

I would go with the ULR only because of the tighter variance.

 

[Gareth elliott]

Wow, that’s too bad.
Anyone else have a misreading with Red Sea?

The magnesium and calcium tests are a bit odd. I think its the calcium test that works different than every other hobby test. The exact titration of any color change is the end point not the titration where the color stays.

 

[Evan28395950]

The magnesium and calcium tests are a bit odd. I think its the calcium test that works different than every other hobby test. The exact titration of any color change is the end point not the titration where the color stays.

I think I’ll still go with Red Sea, just as long as it’s accurate for most people.

 

[Gareth elliott]

They have very informative videos on all their kits 15 minutes of watching to save you hassle later of incorrect results

 

[saltyhog]

I have the relatively new Hanna Phosphate ULR checker. It's a lot easier to use than the phosphorous checker then having to do the math. Seems to work pretty well. Hanna for alk. Salifert for mag, cal and nitrate. Milwaukee for salinity.

I have the Phosphorous ULR and honestly if APEX didn't do the conversion for me when I log my results I wouldn't bother to do the math. I'm just used to looking at the numbers 8-23 are fine with me.

When this unit kicks the bucket I'll the the new one.

 

[Crashjack]

Boy, I didn’t know there was a new Hanna phosphate checker. According to the BRS site, the new checker gives you 7 minutes to do 4 minutes worth of test procedures, which beats the bricks off the phosphorus checker that gives you 3 minutes to do 4 minutes worth of test procedures.

 

[Act1n1c_L1fe]

Wow, that’s too bad.
Anyone else have a misreading with Red Sea?

I currently use Hanna checker for alk and phosphates, api for nitrates and calcium, and salifert for magnesium. Milwaukee digital refractometer for salinity

 

[Act1n1c_L1fe]

I have the Phosphorous ULR and honestly if APEX didn't do the conversion for me when I log my results I wouldn't bother to do the math. I'm just used to looking at the numbers 8-23 are fine with me.

When this unit kicks the bucket I'll the the new one.

 

[MrObscura]

Alk, first and far most, plain and simple. If Alk is in line, the other big 2, cal and mag, likely are as well. As long as you haven't dosed anything alone to throw off the balance. Cal and mag tests are 2 you should have though in case you suspect a problem with those parameters.

As for no3 and po4. While proper husbandry and balanced import/export should keep these in check finding that balance can be tricky so they are good tests to have. Especially since 0ppm in either will likely equals dinos and/or starving goals, and I assure you thats no fun. Aim to keep po4 above 0 and below 0.1. A little higher likely won't hurt but it'll just fuel excess algae.

No3 is probably the least important parameter in that as long as it's not 0 or 100 it doesn't really matter imo.

 

[Hans-Werner]

If I had to suggest one single test kit it would be KH/alkalinity, then comes calcium and nitrate.

 

[Lasse]

Don’t get the Red Sea test kit. Screwed me. Alk reading was 9 but alk was at 6dkh. Didn’t catch it till my **** started dying. Lost hundreds in coral and my beautiful prized Indo torch that would be worth a few hundred on its own today. R.I.P. beautiful Indo torch. 2/1/18 - 8/17/18

IMO - an alk at 6.0 will not kill any corals during a week or two - not growing or so yes - but kill euphyllia - no.

Wow, that’s too bad.
Anyone else have a misreading with Red Sea?

The magnesium and calcium tests are a bit odd. I think its the calcium test that works different than every other hobby test. The exact titration of any color change is the end point not the titration where the color stays.

It is the alkanity test that is different - it is the first colour change - blue to green that´s important - when it turns yellow - you know that you are 1 or 2 units wrong. The calcium test demand a stable colour change and if I compare with TRITONS ICP test - I´m normally around 20 ppm to low if I stopp to early. My friends have the same problem with Salifert calcium test. Mg test - is always a lottery for me - undepended of which brand I use. My ICP tests every 3 - 4 month is enough for me according to Mg.

After have use lab grade equipment in order to analyse PO4 levels in water samples including acid washing of sampling jars - I´m only have a smile on my lips when I hear of equipments below $ 100 able of analyse ultra low (in the 0.1 ppm and lower range of PO4) levels in a kitchen. The difference between 0.01 ppm and 0.1 ppm PO4 is - IMO - only a breath away. To measure levels below 0.01 ppm and think they are accurate with this types of equipment is ridicolous IMO. I use Hanna low phosphate - it is enough for me in order to get the information I need for manage my aquaria.

If I should chose only one test - it will be a alkalinity test (if I have stony corals) and after that PO4 and NO3 - but not in order not to get to high levels - but a safe bealt for not reach zerro levels of them Soft corals and FO - I would skip the hobby tests if I have done a proper start of the aquarium

Instead for investing in a lot of hobby tests - I prefer to put my money on ICP test every 3 - 4 month, especially if you run without WC.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Gareth elliott]

@Lasse knew it was one of them [emoji23]
I use automatic water changes for my filtration and ati 2 part for the remaining element needs. I use the hana alk and phosphate, and a conductivity probe for salinity and an no3 test and every 3 months or so send in an icp test. I so rarely use the other test kits i have. I test more on my planted tank tbh [emoji38]

 

[Sallstrom]

The one I use the most is the KH test. The next is nitrate, then phosphate. The rest I'll get from the results from Triton ICP test(we test 6-8 times a year).

If KH at 6 dKH(by itself) were killing corals we would have lost lots of them

 

[Hans-Werner]

If 6.5 °dKH alkalinity would kill corals they couldn´t even survive in natural seawater, since the "normalized" (to 35 PSU salinity) seawater is not higher in alkalinity than that. Maybe in coral reefs it is even a little bit lower.

 

[Dr. Dendrostein]

The one I use the most is the KH test. The next is nitrate, then phosphate. The rest I'll get from the results from Triton ICP test(we test 6-8 times a year).

If KH at 6 dKH(by itself) were killing corals we would have lost lots of them

Since Sallstrom mentioned over a year ago his corals thriving at 6 KH, I wonder if what we've been told is proper testing. Mainstream say alkalinity should be so much, phosphatase so much,nitrates so much, etc... in reef aquarium, but so many reef keepers are being successful not chasing numbers. Here R2R some have nitrates in the 80 ppm and still having success. Something going on.

 

[Gareth elliott]

Since Sallstrom mentioned over a year ago his corals thriving at 6 KH, I wonder if what we've been told is proper testing. Mainstream say alkalinity should be so much, phosphatase so much,nitrates so much, etc... in reef aquarium, but so many reef keepers are being successful not chasing numbers. Here R2R some have nitrates in the 80 ppm and still having success. Something going on.

I think a stable number is more important than a number. Would bet money that the 80ppm nitrate tanks do not fluctuate greatly from that number on a day to day basis allowing the corals and other lifeforms to grow in adjustment to that system.

Also those systems probably didnt start that way. A brand new tank at over 40 ppm nitrate will have algae issues [emoji23]

Btw this is a entirely opinion above

 

[Dr. Dendrostein]

I think a stable number is more important than a number. Would bet money that the 80ppm nitrate tanks do not fluctuate greatly from that number on a day to day basis allowing the corals and other lifeforms to grow in adjustment to that system.

Also those systems probably didnt start that way. A brand new tank at over 40 ppm nitrate will have algae issues [emoji23]

Btw this is a entirely opinion above

Thanks for input, I just have a hunch the numbers we're pursuing maybe wrong? More likely wrong in my hunch

 

[Act1n1c_L1fe]

IMO - an alk at 6.0 will not kill any corals during a week or two - not growing or so yes - but kill euphyllia - no.





It is the alkanity test that is different - it is the first colour change - blue to green that´s important - when it turns yellow - you know that you are 1 or 2 units wrong. The calcium test demand a stable colour change and if I compare with TRITONS ICP test - I´m normally around 20 ppm to low if I stopp to early. My friends have the same problem with Salifert calcium test. Mg test - is always a lottery for me - undepended of which brand I use. My ICP tests every 3 - 4 month is enough for me according to Mg.

After have use lab grade equipment in order to analyse PO4 levels in water samples including acid washing of sampling jars - I´m only have a smile on my lips when I hear of equipments below $ 100 able of analyse ultra low (in the 0.1 ppm and lower range of PO4) levels in a kitchen. The difference between 0.01 ppm and 0.1 ppm PO4 is - IMO - only a breath away. To measure levels below 0.01 ppm and think they are accurate with this types of equipment is ridicolous IMO. I use Hanna low phosphate - it is enough for me in order to get the information I need for manage my aquaria.

If I should chose only one test - it will be a alkalinity test (if I have stony corals) and after that PO4 and NO3 - but not in order not to get to high levels - but a safe bealt for not reach zerro levels of them Soft corals and FO - I would skip the hobby tests if I have done a proper start of the aquarium

Instead for investing in a lot of hobby tests - I prefer to put my money on ICP test every 3 - 4 month, especially if you run without WC.

Sincerely Lasse

Ime it did.

 

[cracker]

I mostly rely Salinity, Po4 & alk I also have Ca , Mg , No2, No3 .
Po4 & alk are Hanna kits the rest are Red Sea .
Out of all these kits I like the Hanna alk is the easiest .

 

[Lasse]

Ime it did.

IMO it did not because I have had tanks with lower alk that 6 - and no problems. The natural alk is - as Hans-Werner state around this value and sallstrom run massive SPS tanks with an alk around 6 with no problems. Maybe a combination of low alk and other factors caused the problem for you - but I never buy that low alk by it self can cause these problems, especially if it is not a fast change.

Sincerely Lasse