mould in the wooden stand help

Reef257

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Aug 11, 2020
Messages
228
Reaction score
70
Location
Cmb
What state or country do you live in
Other International
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hi everyone
Hope all are doing good

I build my own stand and .applied termite cover and painted it .

Suddenly I saw the legs of the stand turning white. When I closely check is looos kinda like a fungus.

I would like to know if it will help if a sandpaper the part which has the mould / fungus and repaint it will paint

Screenshot_20200917-181802_Video Player.jpg Screenshot_20200917-181733_Video Player.jpg Screenshot_20200917-181757_Video Player.jpg Screenshot_20200917-181709_Video Player.jpg Screenshot_20200917-181810_Video Player.jpg
 
I don't know if thats mold or sap leaching out and reacting with the sealer.
Did you use green or kiln dried lumber?
How old is the stand?
 
It's a new stand . Green dried lumber.

Bit worried if it would take over the whole stand and the stand will fall off
 
It's a new stand . Green dried lumber.

Bit worried if it would take over the whole stand and the stand will fall off
Sand it off and use linseed oil if the tank is already set up. If the tank is not set up or can be removed then use polyurethane.

Just a note for the future always use polyurethane on wood that might have any exposure to salt water. I also use a stain before the poly, just to be sure. Salt water and wood are a dangerous combination if not treated correctly. One other thing, this is one way that I use and am certain that works there are others I am sure. Look to the marine boating hobby for other sealers that might work. I think shelac may be one, but I have not used so I can not say.
 
Sand it off and use linseed oil if the tank is already set up. If the tank is not set up or can be removed then use polyurethane.

Just a note for the future always use polyurethane on wood that might have any exposure to salt water. I also use a stain before the poly, just to be sure. Salt water and wood are a dangerous combination if not treated correctly. One other thing, this is one way that I use and am certain that works there are others I am sure. Look to the marine boating hobby for other sealers that might work. I think shelac may be one, but I have not used so I can not say.
Thanks for the advice
Will sand it off.

Do you think that will that mould or fungus cause weakness to the legs of the stand
 
If you are going to paint inside, then I would recommend sanding the surface and then priming with Kilz paint. I use to be a consultant in treating fungus growth in subflooring wood material. This is what we did. If you are staining the wood you can apply polyurethane similar to the previously mentioned reply.
 
Thanks for the advice
Will sand it off.

Do you think that will that mould or fungus cause weakness to the legs of the stand
In time it will cause dry rot ... yes. If you treat with linseed oil you have to keep up with it as takes time to really penetrate the wood.
 
In time it will cause dry rot ... yes. If you treat with linseed oil you have to keep up with it as takes time to really penetrate the wood.
Thanks for all the support.

Do you think the below paint help.
Or doni need to paint anything additional to it

SmartSelect_20200918-162618_Gallery.jpg
 
Do you think the attached paint would be enough or do I need to paint anything additional to it

SmartSelect_20200918-162618_Gallery.jpg
 
Thanks for all the support.

Do you think the below paint help.
Or doni need to paint anything additional to it

SmartSelect_20200918-162618_Gallery.jpg
The problem, is the VOCs from the paint on the open tank, this is very dangerous. That is why I suggested linseed oil.

I haven't used acrylic sealers so I can't vouch for them.
 
The problem, is the VOCs from the paint on the open tank, this is very dangerous. That is why I suggested linseed oil.

I haven't used acrylic sealers so I can't vouch for them.
Thanks for the advise ..
I'm so confused if it's poor house ventilation.

Today I notice new places of this fungus .

20200918_234105.jpg 20200918_234110.jpg
 
Sand it off and use linseed oil if the tank is already set up. If the tank is not set up or can be removed then use polyurethane.

Just a note for the future always use polyurethane on wood that might have any exposure to salt water. I also use a stain before the poly, just to be sure. Salt water and wood are a dangerous combination if not treated correctly. One other thing, this is one way that I use and am certain that works there are others I am sure. Look to the marine boating hobby for other sealers that might work. I think shelac may be one, but I have not used so I can not say.
Can't be a good seal with West epoxy resin if thay doesn't work nothing will boat builder BTW
 
Thanks for the advise ..
I'm so confused if it's poor house ventilation.

Today I notice new places of this fungus .

20200918_234105.jpg 20200918_234110.jpg
Yup this is why I use the polyurethane (or equivalent) for sealing. Nothing worse than trying to deal with this when the tank is already up, like you're experiencing.

You might want to suck it up and move the tank to temp quarters and deal with this. You are going to be fighting this forever, and by the looks of the second picture if the water gets under the tank then there is absolutely nothing you will be able to do about it and it will dry rot the wood. You absolutely don't want dry rot on structural support.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. :(
 
I don't know what termite treatment you did, but if it was a liquid, it may be the termite chemicals trying to leach out.
 
I don't know what termite treatment you did, but if it was a liquid, it may be the termite chemicals trying to leach out.
Yes it's a liquid termite chemical.
 
Yes it's a liquid termite chemical.

Keep in mind if the product was specifically for termites it could be producing the "mold" you see as the result. Thus the product creates this and termites will not eat it.
So the point is ,it may not be mold, or something that will cause dry rot.

If you can, please post the exact product you used so we can help you research and see if this is a potential problem.

I am not an expert on molds and the like, I feel we all are speculating here without all the facts. White from what I know is an unlikely color for mold. Black, blue green or combination thereof is much more likely.
This could be more of a chemical reaction that is harmless, but unsightly.

I would make contact with the product manufacturer with a phone call or email and ask if this is common and or something to be concerned about.
 
Keep in mind if the product was specifically for termites it could be producing the "mold" you see as the result. Thus the product creates this and termites will not eat it.
So the point is ,it may not be mold, or something that will cause dry rot.

If you can, please post the exact product you used so we can help you research and see if this is a potential problem.

I am not an expert on molds and the like, I feel we all are speculating here without all the facts. White from what I know is an unlikely color for mold. Black, blue green or combination thereof is much more likely.
This could be more of a chemical reaction that is harmless, but unsightly.

I would make contact with the product manufacturer with a phone call or email and ask if this is common and or something to be concerned about.
If your talking about the termite product, I'm pretty sure they won't have any idea of the reaction to their product being painted over. I'm sure it wasn't meant to be applied that way. Most termite treatments are perimeter applications around buildings in soil.
a DIY..
Termites don't eat the product intentionally. Most are odorless. The walk through it. They clean and preen themselves all day long ingesting the product. They walk through it, bringing it back to there mounds and tubes, transferring it to their colony.
 
If your talking about the termite product, I'm pretty sure they won't have any idea of the reaction to their product being painted over. I'm sure it wasn't meant to be applied that way. Most termite treatments are perimeter applications around buildings in soil.
a DIY..
Termites don't eat the product intentionally. Most are odorless. The walk through it. They clean and preen themselves all day long ingesting the product. They walk through it, bringing it back to there mounds and tubes, transferring it to their colony.

I know nothing about termite products or the proper implementation as where I live we don't have them that I have ever heard.
I would hope the product manufacturer would have some information though.
There will be overspray and such, I think if the product did cause this to exposed wood it would be noticed by the end users and figured out by now. Who knows.

I still feel we don't have all the information to properly answer the questions.
I have life experience enough to understand that key words used like mold will take on a entire path of its own leading us on a 180 degree path from the answer.
Just human nature, lol.
Another good thing for our four legged friends of the Canine world where I live is we have no fleas at our elevation. Yet I see people buying flea related medications all the time.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top