Move dos add/remove slider from auto/tbl to off?

[ifreefingwasaperson]

Maybe one more question if the ‘’master switch’’ isn’t reset for a couple of days, will it cause any other alarms alert problems? Like blocking/sending other true statements

 

[ifreefingwasaperson]

Thanks for the speedy reply also!

 

[ifreefingwasaperson]

Forgive me as I’m pretty much blind but hopefully this will make sense. I can’t copy and paste yet but here it goes.

Make virtual outlets labeled something like v_reset and v_mixlow

in v_mixlow program fallback off, if whatever your optical sensor is open or closed depending on your sensor setup then on. This would turn on and off when your sensor is open or closed. Add a line stating if v_reset on then off

in your dos advanced settings add a line stating if v_mixlow on then off

if you have an I/o you could connect a doorbell button to trigger v_reset. If not you have to use the button in fusion

does that make sense?

I believe it does make sense after writing it down on paper. I like the idea of the doorbell also. It’s sounds like about the same as the other statement, but eliminating the manual part of on to auto to reset. Could you possibly elaborate on the doorbell? I see I would need a breakout box and just a two wire doorbell? Right? How would that statement look? How would the statement for the feed button look also?

 

[Sean Clark]

Maybe one more question if the ‘’master switch’’ isn’t reset for a couple of days, will it cause any other alarms alert problems? Like blocking/sending other true statements

Apex will only report one alarm at a time.
The programing is prioritized from top to bottom least restrictive to most restrictive.
If you put your alarm statement at the top it will be a lower priority than all of the alarms below it. So if you have an alarm trigger that is lower in the program it should push through as a new alarm.
If you have your alarm statement at the bottom then no other alarms will sound until it is resolved.

 

[Sean Clark]

One more question? My current dos programming after adding your info is
if Dow s——s then off
if error mx salt then off
if MXBNLO open then off
if smplo open then off

having that if MXBNLO open then off statement wont cause any problems or should it be removed?

It looks like if error mx salt then off might be a typo, there should be some thing between mx and salt no spaces.

 

[ifreefingwasaperson]

Ok I have a working and tested solution.
It is not going to move the slider on your dos, but it will move the slider on a virtual outlet which will keep the dos off and set an alarm until you reset it. Just think of it like a master switch.

1) Create a virtual outlet, I named mine
MIX-RESET and add the new virtual outlet to your dashboard

2) Add this programing to MIX-RESET:

Set ON
If mxbnlo open Then OFF
When OFF > 000:05 Then OFF

3) Add this line to your dos programing:

If Error MIX-RESET Then OFF
Or
If MIX-RESET OFF Then OFF
(Either should work but the error will have a 5 second delay, I tried both)

4) Add this line to your Email_Alarm:

If Error MIX-RESET Then ON

5) Go to your dashboard and set the MIX-RESET slider to ON Then back to AUTO.

You must set it to ON before setting it to AUTO every time it trips or it will continuously trip.

I did it this way so that the outlet would show you when the mixing station is operational or "ON" by illuminating the ON above the outlet. ON in orange with the slider set to auto is what you want to see.

When the mxbnlo sensor is open (dry) for 5 seconds it will set the slider for the MIX-RESET outlet to off and put the outlet into an error state.
This will shut your dos off, turn your alarm on, and send an alert.
Your dos will not turn back on until your reset the MIX-RESET outlet by first adding water to close the mxbnlo sensor and then setting MIX-RESET outlet slider to ON and then back to AUTO.

Is there a way to have the heater and pump come on after the refill Until the Salt gets mixed in. Once the master switch is reset it returns the dos to auto and cut off the heater and pump. I would only like the pump and heater to operate after the refill.

 

[ifreefingwasaperson]

It looks like if error mx salt then off might be a typo, there should be some thing between mx and salt no spaces.

Got it taken care of. Thanks a lot!

 

[Sean Clark]

Is there a way to have the heater and pump come on after the refill Until the Salt gets mixed in. Once the master switch is reset it returns the dos to auto and cut off the heater and pump. I would only like the pump and heater to operate after the refill.

This can be done but how will you be establishing when the salt gets mixed in to shut off? Will there be a salinity probe in the brute can, a second sensor/switch to measure the additional displacement, or will you just input it manually with a vo or a feed mode button?
Another option. Would be to tie it into the "full" sensor to turn on once the vessel filled back up; this method has no way of knowing if salt has been added though.

 

[Sean Clark]

It’s sounds like about the same as the other statement, but eliminating the manual part of on to auto to reset.

The step of setting the outlet to ON and then back to AUTO can be eliminated, but with that programing the outlet will not show its status as "ON" while in normal opperation. This is the only reason I set it up this way.

If configured slightly differently it only needs to be slid from OFF back to AUTO and you are back in business. No visual "ON" indicator that everything is good though.

It only takes a second to swipe all the way right to ON and then back left to AUTO but if you want to change that, it is rather simple to do.

 

[ifreefingwasaperson]

This can be done but how will you be establishing when the salt gets mixed in to shut off? Will there be a salinity probe in the brute can, a second sensor/switch to measure the additional displacement, or will you just input it manually with a vo or a feed mode button?
Another option. Would be to tie it into the "full" sensor to turn on once the vessel filled back up; this method has no way of knowing if salt has been added though.

I was going to hit the rest button like you recommend. So the bin would refill, then pump and heater come on, I would then mix in salt, then hit the reset button

 

[ifreefingwasaperson]

The step of setting the outlet to ON and then back to AUTO can be eliminated, but with that programing the outlet will not show its status as "ON" while in normal opperation. This is the only reason I set it up this way.

If configured slightly differently it only needs to be slid from OFF back to AUTO and you are back in business. No visual "ON" indicator that everything is good though.

It only takes a second to swipe all the way right to ON and then back left to AUTO but if you want to change that, it is rather simple to do.

You are correct ill leave it that way

 

[Sean Clark]

I was going to hit the rest button like you recommend. So the bin would refill, then pump and heater come on, I would then mix in salt, then hit the reset button

Filling from what source? The dos won't run if the low sensor is still open.

 

[Crabby48]

If “optical sensor” closed then off. I use that to turn sliders off on pumps.

 

[Sean Clark]

If “optical sensor” closed then off. I use that to turn sliders off on pumps.

Op wants to physically set the outlet to off. Hence the complexity. An if then statement will only change the logic state of the controller, not move the sliders.

 

[Crabby48]

Op wants to physically set the outlet to off. Hence the complexity. An if then statement will only change the logic state of the controller, not move the sliders.

Are you sure it moves my slider to off. I use it to turn pumps off and the slider moves too

 

[ifreefingwasaperson]

Filling from what source? The dos won't run if the low sensor is still open.

Filling from rodi solenoid out of the brute that just auto refilled

 

[Sean Clark]

Are you sure it moves my slider to off. I use it to turn pumps off and the slider moves too

I am confident. Anytime a slider gets set to ON or OFF it will no longer interpret code until set back to auto. The logic state will change bur the slider will remain in the AUTO position with an if then statement.

 

[ifreefingwasaperson]

So basically I want to auto refill the mix bin CHECK
auto heat and mix
manually add salt
hit reset virtual outlet
= dos back to auto
heater and pump off

 

[A_Blind_Reefer]

This gets more and more complicated as we go. I suggest letting us know everything up front. The heaters, circ pump, solenoid are all newly brought up. Plus only with one optical sensor, it’s not ideal in my opinion. Is the slider moving from auto to off absolutely necessary? I leave mine on auto, but it will say off when tripped and then tbl when back on. Nothing can turn on until I physically press the doorbell. Here’s what I have equipment wise to accomplish what I think you’re trying to do.

A saltwater mixing bin that I call NSW for new salt water
An EB4 and Pm2 with temp and salinity
A low level switch that I call NSW-Lo
A high level switch that I call NSW_Hi
A mechanical float valve as on emergency shut-off in case the rodi fails open.
A 24v rodi solenoid I call SW_Solenoid
A Dos for auto water change that I call DOS_Add_SW and DOS_Rem_SW
A mixing/circulation pump called SW_Circ_Pump
I had a heater, but disconnected it as this is in an interior room that’s always around 72 or so.
A Doorbell switch connected to a input module
Virtual outlets labeled V_NSW_Lo, V_NSW_Hi, V_NSW_Fill, V_NSW_Reset

Having a low and high level sensor allows you to program the low to kill the auto water change, trigger a virtual fill outlet that when the high level trips triggers a virtual filled outlet, that in turn switches on the circ pump and generates a notification to alert you that the salt water bin is full of rodi and you need to add salt, check parameters and when all is good, manually press the doorbell which resets the auto water change and continues to run the circ pump for six hours. Having a salinity probe allows me to program a dummy proof reset that if I get an irate phone call that lasts hours that distracts me and I forget to add salt to the correct level but press the doorbell, it will not start the auto water change.

All that said, without a high level sensor, it’s not going to be reliable in my opinion. You could time how long it takes to fill your container and add a defer statement to a virtual outlet but I wouldn’t recommend that approach. I do suggest adding a mechanical float shut-off to the top of you bin just in case the solenoid fails, which it will eventually. They typically fail open from debris or worn diaphragm which will allow rodi to keep on coming.

once we know exactly everything you have, and what you want to do, we can give you better advice. @Sean Clark put some time in to come up with the solution for moving the slider. After rereading his suggestion I’m not sure my idea of a feed mode will work to move it back to auto and you would have to manually do it in fusion. I can’t really play with things as I’m severely visually impaired now and will just screw things up. It doesn’t seem necessary to me to have the slider move to off if you put in some failsafes but that’s up to you and I’m not telling you what to do. I’m just explaining how I have done this for several years now.

 

[ifreefingwasaperson]

I have a mix brute trash can with a heater, circ. pump and sediment filter
solenoid controlling the rodi
dos with awc
2-fmm modules
1-pm2 and temp probe
eb832
eb4