Moved tank without changing sand-- everything is dying!!

[kamakazian]

So let's just move past the fact that I should've removed all the sand before moving my 90gal tank... but now that everything is dying (corals, anemones, fish, inverts), is there anything I can do??

I've put the three living fish (removed one that died) in a hospital tank (also uncycled, but fresh water). One fish died in hospital tank after being in there for a day (did 25% WC after 24hrs). Quickly moved the remaining two into a bucket of clean water. I added prime to the hospital tank and 90gal, but I'm nervous to put the fish back in the hospital tank.

Display still has corals/anemones that are dying... nitrite =

 

[kamakazian]

Cut off from first post>>>>

Display still has corals/anemones that are dying... nitrite = 1ppm (up from .5 yesterday); Ammo = 0
What can I do with what's still alive?? And what do I do with my fish??

Hospital tank doesn't read ammo or nitrite.

 

[joseserrano]

big water changes and fingers crossed

 

[JCOLE]

When did you make the first move and did you use all new saltwater?

 

[Qasimja]

what are your tank parameters

 

[BeejReef]

I don't entirely understand what you think you did to begin this crisis.

You moved the tank? Like, you drained 95% of the water and physically moved it with the sand inside? You scooped out all of the sand, moved the tank, scooped it back in? Why did you move the tank?

I'm sure you understand what you're up against. I'm just saying that if you've torn down the system and moved everything, there are a lot of variables in play. Why are you so sure it's the sand?

 

[Fiesty]

If everything is dying as u say, id take a chance to save them and run a large amount of carbon in a mesh bag, filter sock, or similar and then do a VERY large water change ASAP. By large i mean most of it but make sure the parameters of new water coming in r good and match as far as temp and slainity, ph, etc. And please be using good RODI water. My suggestions r based upon the lack of more information about your tank and the move and that you have an emergency now with things dying and these suggestions may cover several probelms quickly. At least get ready for my suggestions while you get others opinions while providing more information here. Getting new salt mix ready takes time and chances r you will need ut soon anyways.

 

[MnFish1]

Cut off from first post>>>>

Display still has corals/anemones that are dying... nitrite = 1ppm (up from .5 yesterday); Ammo = 0
What can I do with what's still alive?? And what do I do with my fish??

Hospital tank doesn't read ammo or nitrite.

It sounds like sulfur or low oxygen. - water changes, Do you smell sulfur?? Nitrite shouldn't be a problem what is your pH, etc etc etc etc. Problem is also that once something 'starts dying' - it releases toxins, etc - that affects other things and the chain continues - so carbon is often helpful as well. Make sure your tank is WELL OXYGENATED. air stones, powerhead at the surface, etc.

 

[JCOLE]

Need parameters. If things are dying then test, test, test, and test.

If all new water and the Alk was significantly different then that would be pretty bad especially for more sensitive corals.

Need parameters
Livestock info and age
Pictures would help also

Hope everything pulls out ok!

 

[ZaneTer]

Personally, I would remove all of the sand and replace all of the water. The system is destabilized anyway.

Bare bottom isn’t the prettiest initially but it certainly saves a headache later like what is happening to you now.

Hope it all works out for you.

 

[Cell]

Prime?

 

[brandon429]

your thread is an important study in cpr and recovery too. the prime above is good call, but, your testers aren't the same trustworthy after/misreads begin so we go on instinct after prime

can you remove all the sand vs keep it, even if we calm things its a cyano trap waiting. ammonia is the only condition that matters not trite or trate, and, only rising ammonia matters not a low level holding like .25 or .5 those will be unimpactful/ not factored especially if Prime was used before the test.

Pics of your current tank are vital

 

[Hemmdog]

How’s your skimmer? Is it pulling a lot out at least?

 

[kamakazian]

I've been considering this... any thoughts as to how I might go about this without pulling all of the rocks/coral out of the water?

Personally, I would remove all of the sand and replace all of the water. The system is destabilized anyway.

Bare bottom isn’t the prettiest initially but it certainly saves a headache later like what is happening to you now.

Hope it all works out for you.

 

[ZaneTer]

I've been considering this... any thoughts as to how I might go about this without pulling all of the rocks/coral out of the water?

I’m sorry but no I don’t think there is a way. I would drain it and then put all live rock into a container. Scoop the sand out with a dust pan and brush.

I have done it in my 180g and it took about an hour from start of drain to cleaned and filled back up.

I also took the opportunity while it was empty to put a sheet of Mylar under the tank. It’s an ultra reflective material....bye bye any troubles of not enough light on a coral underside.

Hope this helps

 

[kamakazian]

I don't entirely understand what you think you did to begin this crisis.

You moved the tank? Like, you drained 95% of the water and physically moved it with the sand inside? You scooped out all of the sand, moved the tank, scooped it back in? Why did you move the tank?

I'm sure you understand what you're up against. I'm just saying that if you've torn down the system and moved everything, there are a lot of variables in play. Why are you so sure it's the sand?

I know it's the sand because I moved the tank two months ago with having completely removed the sand, adding new sand, and only lost a diamond back (I assumed it was because I took its sand and it had no food source) and an urchin. All other inverts/corals/fish were fine. Parameters barely shifted.

This time around, I drained the water to move the coral/fish in buckets (not new water), but left the sandbed. My hope was that it wouldn't be disturbed much if I drained all the water... that was my mind being an idiot. It sloshed itself and totally stirred itself up. If the fish were suffocating, would nitrite not be the primary culprit? After using Seachem Prime, the fish have been breathing pretty normally. My rabbitfish is anxious as hell in the 20gal and I don't think he's eating ... the other fish, a juvy clown is happy and healthy as far as I can tell.

 

[kamakazian]

I’m sorry but no I don’t think there is a way. I would drain it and then put all live rock into a container. Scoop the sand out with a dust pan and brush.

I have done it in my 180g and it took about an hour from start of drain to cleaned and filled back up.

I also took the opportunity while it was empty to put a sheet of Mylar under the tank. It’s an ultra reflective material....bye bye any troubles of not enough light on a coral underside.

Hope this helps

Is your tank bottomless? Did you put the Mylar under the tank or IN the tank?

 

[kamakazian]

How’s your skimmer? Is it pulling a lot out at least?

It's going nuts. Bubbles for days

 

[ZaneTer]

Is your tank bottomless? Did you put the Mylar under the tank or IN the tank?

My tank is bare bottom and the Mylar is UNDERNEATH the tank. It’s like a very reflective fabric.

 

[kamakazian]

your thread is an important study in cpr and recovery too. the prime above is good call, but, your testers aren't the same trustworthy after/misreads begin so we go on instinct after prime

can you remove all the sand vs keep it, even if we calm things its a cyano trap waiting. ammonia is the only condition that matters not trite or trate, and, only rising ammonia matters not a low level holding like .25 or .5 those will be unimpactful/ not factored especially if Prime was used before the test.

Pics of your current tank are vital

Yeahhh, I know Prime basically nullifies my readings now. I still do it just out of habit ;Facepalm But those readings were pre-Prime dosing. So nitrite and ammo were accurate. Would it make sense that ammo reading is currently 2ppm and nitrite is 0? I figured the readings would just stay constant after dosing; even after 20gal waterchange.