Multi-Wrasse QT advice needed.

Tplummer

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Ok,

I may be over thinking this but wanted to get some advice from more experienced folks who have quarantined multiple wrasses at the same time.

Stocking plan - Adding all wrasse at once to avoid headaches later...

1. Lineatus Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus lineatus)
2. Splendid Pintail Fairy Wrasse (juvi male) (Cirrhilabrus isosceles)
3. Bluehead Fairy Wrasse (1 inch) (Cirrhilabrus cyanopleura)
4. Clown Fairy (Cirrhilabrus solorensis)
5. Orangeback Fairy (2-3 inches) (Cirrhilabrus aurantidorsalis)

Current Situation

The first three from the list have been in a 20H tank for 3 days. All are eating and settling in.
The issue is that the Clown and Orangeback are coming on Friday (2 days from now) I may have a little ammonia in the tank. The badge says no, but the test kit shows .25 or so. Yesterday I did a 5 gallon water change and I'm cleaning out any uneaten food as I go. I’ve been feeding 3 small meals of brine or pellets per day (should I back off on that a bit??).

What I did

I moved a basket of very well cycled Marine Pure balls into the tank next to a powerhead. I want to keep the fish there until Friday so they all start TTM together. I'm doing Tank Transfer X6 with 4 weeks observation in the end (if I can stand it :)

Question 1: After the other fish arrive, I intend to move the Marine Pure balls back to my Coral QT tank. I'm concerned here.
Could ick potentially attach to any corals at this point? I don't keep fish in the Coral QT tank, but I'm about to introduce
an elegance coral soon. Should I move the Elegance out before returning the Marine Pure balls back to QT?

Question 2: Am I insane trying to push these 5 expensive fish through TTM like this? I've only done TTM once with the Purple Tang).

Question 3: The Lineatus Fairy is very faded although listed as a Young Male. Nothing like what I expected. Can this change
even if no females are introduced? For such an expensive fish I expected more, but He is just settling in I suppose.

Additional info

1. Tank is 240 gallons , 1.3 years in
2. Going to use an acclimation box
3. Current occupants = 1 clown, 1 Sailfin, 1 slightly obnoxious mid sized purple tang (this is the one I will watch).
4. Propazi not started yet (should I build up to full dose given I'm working with wrasses here? I heard this was hard on them?)
5. All new fish get Methelyne Blue for 10 seconds or so (should I repeat this any time in the process?).
6. Going to dose Tigger Pods into main display a week or so before I let the fish out of the Acclimation box.

Appreciate any criticism or advice, I want to get them and myself through this without too much stress (yea right).

Thanks,
Travis
 
If you use filter media in a tank with fish that have not been quarantined you shouldn't use it in the DT or a coral QT tank unless you want to keep the QT fishless and the coral doesn't leave it for 76 days.

You have two wrasses (C. cyanopleura and C. aurantidorsalis) that are in the same complex. They likely will not do well together in QT although in a tank the size of yours they might be ok once they get to the DT.

I would have introduced the C. isoscoles first as it is pretty demure and smaller than the others. It might be bullied a little.

I wouldn't dose pods for the sake of the fish. Cirrhilabrus primarily eat from the water column and take prepared foods very easily (usually within a couple of hours after introduction for me).
 
If you use filter media in a tank with fish that have not been quarantined you shouldn't use it in the DT or a coral QT tank unless you want to keep the QT fishless and the coral doesn't leave it for 76 days.

You have two wrasses (C. cyanopleura and C. aurantidorsalis) that are in the same complex. They likely will not do well together in QT although in a tank the size of yours they might be ok once they get to the DT.

I would have introduced the C. isoscoles first as it is pretty demure and smaller than the others. It might be bullied a little.

I wouldn't dose pods for the sake of the fish. Cirrhilabrus primarily eat from the water column and take prepared foods very easily (usually within a couple of hours after introduction for me).

Thanks for the reply. Ill keep an eye for any aggression issues among the ones you mentioned. Im kinda kicking myself now for not catching that. dang. Ok, well the coral will need to go in the dt. I was afraid of that. Ive been keeping a tank for years but i have much to learn. Thanks again for your time.
 
The Orangeback would be an issue. Mine was not nice for the longest time. My tank is wrasse heavy so for pods I dosed trigger pods every month for 4 months. I poured the bottle in late at night when all the wrasses were sleeping. Once they started multiplying I let off. I check my tank late at night so I can see if pods are running all over the place
 
The Orangeback would be an issue. Mine was not nice for the longest time. My tank is wrasse heavy so for pods I dosed trigger pods every month for 4 months. I poured the bottle in late at night when all the wrasses were sleeping. Once they started multiplying I let off. I check my tank late at night so I can see if pods are running all over the place

Interesting,

I didn't think the orange back would be an issue but I've never really owned wrasses before. I hope the larger tank will give them a chance to sing kumbya together. Thx for your reply,
 
Interesting,

I didn't think the orange back would be an issue but I've never really owned wrasses before. I hope the larger tank will give them a chance to sing kumbya together. Thx for your reply,
Mine was in a 180 and as soon as he saw the wrasses he wanted to pick on he would be on them where ever they were
 
I've done TTM with multiple wrasse in the past with success but limited myself to three - Rhomboid, Lineatus and Pintail. I agree with others but would also say you may have issue with these three

3. Bluehead Fairy Wrasse (1 inch) (Cirrhilabrus cyanopleura)
4. Clown Fairy (Cirrhilabrus solorensis)
5. Orangeback Fairy (2-3 inches) (Cirrhilabrus aurantidorsalis)

I would not rely on the bio balls. Do you have HOB filters? if so soak the sponge in Biospira and use that as your bio. I've great success with it but you also have to remember not to feed as heavy. I think that answer Question 1.

Question 2 - I don't know about insane but pushing 5 Cirrhilabrus wrasse through TTM (I assume all 20 gallon tanks) may prove difficult.

Question 3 - Yes female Lineatus and even young males have much less color. Another male Lineatus will not make a difference. It will grow and color up on its own. Once it get comfortable it will color up for you.

I don't do TTM any longer due to velvet possibilities but now use Copper Power with hanna checker. It's chelated copper and easier on the wrasses.

Good luck!
 
I've done TTM with multiple wrasse in the past with success but limited myself to three - Rhomboid, Lineatus and Pintail. I agree with others but would also say you may have issue with these three

3. Bluehead Fairy Wrasse (1 inch) (Cirrhilabrus cyanopleura)
4. Clown Fairy (Cirrhilabrus solorensis)
5. Orangeback Fairy (2-3 inches) (Cirrhilabrus aurantidorsalis)

I would not rely on the bio balls. Do you have HOB filters? if so soak the sponge in Biospira and use that as your bio. I've great success with it but you also have to remember not to feed as heavy. I think that answer Question 1.

Question 2 - I don't know about insane but pushing 5 Cirrhilabrus wrasse through TTM (I assume all 20 gallon tanks) may prove difficult.

Question 3 - Yes female Lineatus and even young males have much less color. Another male Lineatus will not make a difference. It will grow and color up on its own. Once it get comfortable it will color up for you.

I don't do TTM any longer due to velvet possibilities but now use Copper Power with hanna checker. It's chelated copper and easier on the wrasses.

Good luck!

First off thanks for the feedback. Great to hear from people who have been there. I switched out my order and substituted yellow fin fairy and tricolor fairy for the orange back and
I've done TTM with multiple wrasse in the past with success but limited myself to three - Rhomboid, Lineatus and Pintail. I agree with others but would also say you may have issue with these three

3. Bluehead Fairy Wrasse (1 inch) (Cirrhilabrus cyanopleura)
4. Clown Fairy (Cirrhilabrus solorensis)
5. Orangeback Fairy (2-3 inches) (Cirrhilabrus aurantidorsalis)

I would not rely on the bio balls. Do you have HOB filters? if so soak the sponge in Biospira and use that as your bio. I've great success with it but you also have to remember not to feed as heavy. I think that answer Question 1.

Question 2 - I don't know about insane but pushing 5 Cirrhilabrus wrasse through TTM (I assume all 20 gallon tanks) may prove difficult.

Question 3 - Yes female Lineatus and even young males have much less color. Another male Lineatus will not make a difference. It will grow and color up on its own. Once it get comfortable it will color up for you.

I don't do TTM any longer due to velvet possibilities but now use Copper Power with hanna checker. It's chelated copper and easier on the wrasses.

Good luck!
first off thanks for the feedback. Nice to hear from people who have been there. I wen ahead and canceled the order of orange back and clown. This leaves the blue side alone in his complex. Went with a yellow fin fairy and tricolor wrasse. I didnt see any conflict from the wrasse compatibility diagram posted elswhere here. Thats great info that i should have known before pulling the trigger. Now with the classifications in place, i just need to get these guys through qt. Ill hit petco and grab two tens for the new guys i guess. Velvet is a concern to with ttm but im thinking keep them out of dt for four weeks or so after ttm. This is a real test. Pretty stressful actually. Thx again man. Ill keep posting on it. Maybe someone can learn something from thi thread

Travis
 
Actually the tricolor and yellow fin are in the same complex. (C. lubbocki and C. flavidorsalis). Not as aggressive as the cyanopleura complex but they are pretty spunky. Again in your large display it may not be an issue but in a confined QT it is much more likely to be.

Now you know why we hate common names! :D
 
Actually the tricolor and yellow fin are in the same complex. (C. lubbocki and C. flavidorsalis). Not as aggressive as the cyanopleura complex but they are pretty spunky. Again in your large display it may not be an issue but in a confined QT it is much more likely to be.

Now you know why we hate common names! :D

Omg you're right. The order is in, no turning back now. Im starting to think im not as good as this as i once thought lol.
 
Omg you're right. The order is in, no turning back now. Im starting to think im not as good as this as i once thought lol.

Don't feel alone, I've done a ton of those recently!

It may work out fine! Just be prepared to intervene if they get snippy.
 
Don't feel alone, I've done a ton of those recently!

It may work out fine! Just be prepared to intervene if they get snippy.
Appreciate that. I went ahead and bought a few tens with heaters and stuff to make it a little rommier. 3 in the 20s, 2 in the tens. Soaked multiple sponges in bio spillia . Everything moving forward. My fish room looks like a meth lab at this point
 
Appreciate that. I went ahead and bought a few tens with heaters and stuff to make it a little rommier. 3 in the 20s, 2 in the tens. Soaked multiple sponges in bio spillia . Everything moving forward. My fish room looks like a meth lab at this point

Outstanding! That's going the extra mile! I really think if you can get them to the DT healthy you have a great chance of success. Having so many Cirrhilabrus introduced at the same time my diffuse any aggression.
 

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