Multiple: 1. Nitrate high. 2. My plants aren't surviving.

[Lenett]

I moved my acro to my 17 gal Fluval. He is budding everywhere! My plants are also growing like crazy in there. However my 175 gal doesnt grow plants. My corals are doing well and even expanding on the rock, but not really fast. My shrimp are molting constantly and getting so big. Nitrates are a problem, but all other water parameters are good. Been searching for the best thing to do. It takes 4 hours to do a water change, (after running ro for 2 days). I did 60 gal water change 2 days ago and nitrates are still 20.??? My tank is 2.5 feet deep and lights are leds. Probably 3 feet from lights to bottom. Are the lights the issue? Also have a wet dry sump. Added a reactor a week ago. Started washing my frozen Mysis shrimp. Could it be not enough co2, or is that a problem with a wet dry? Cant figure out how to convert to a refugium. Tried a hang on, but not enough. I keep searching! is carbon dosing, (vodka or No pox) in opposition to a nitrate reducing reactor or a refugium? I think they all 3 grow a different denitrifying bacteria. This is all confusing! If anyone can help I would appreciate?
1. Plants wont grow in 175 gal. 2.5 ft deep, Programed LEDs Is it lights or co2 problem?
2. High nitrates: Carbon dosing, nitrate reactor or refugium/scrubber

pic 1 Sally the ferocious blenny and 17 gal, pic 2 corals in my 175 gal, pic 3 blob growing in 175 gal. Have had for years, growing fast now. Anyone know what it is?



Sally, budding green
acro and growing plants
Corals growing in 175 gal, but no plants


Can anyone identify this black, white and gray blob growing in my tank?

 

[DED65]

I would say that your lights are probably the biggest issue. The zoas in the second picture are really stretching. This would also be an issue for plants not growing. What kind of lights are you running? What are the other parameters in your tank? It doesn't look like you have an issue with algae growing everywhere and probably there is no reason to dose carbons. What are you running in the new reactor? I wouldn't worry about the nitrates unless you are having issues with them. The blob looks like a sponge to me.

Those Blennies are as ferocious as my Labradors

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

What does "but all other water parameters are good. " mean to you?

Phosphate needs to be sufficient, and dosing trace elements such as iron and manganese can make a big difference for macroalgae.

CO2 is not the issue.

 

[Lenett]

I would say that your lights are probably the biggest issue. The zoas in the second picture are really stretching. This would also be an issue for plants not growing. What kind of lights are you running? What are the other parameters in your tank? It doesn't look like you have an issue with algae growing everywhere and probably there is no reason to dose carbons. What are you running in the new reactor? I wouldn't worry about the nitrates unless you are having issues with them. The blob looks like a sponge to me.

Those Blennies are as ferocious as my Labradors

Thanks for your response DED65!
Love your Lab!
I have some brown on substrate, but not over whelming. I see a few small patches of hair algae, (which I have never had before). Hitchhiked on coral I guess. Otherwise not much green. Pincushion urchin seems to be okay but eats surface of live rock. Used to have coralline growing but don't see now. Had long spine, but started dropping spines and died after a few months even though I was feeding it nori. Have had both for over 3 years.
Lights are 2 36" Orbit Marine LEDs. Programable. Have had for a few years. Have moved them higher and lower, changed programs etc. I will move to sit flush on glass to see if that helps. They seemed to be enough over a 50 gal I was using while my 175 was being resealed. It wasn't as deep though. What lights do you rec.? I don't want to cause a problem with heat from other types of lights. There is so much conflicting info out there!
Everything I have read says nitrates at 40 isn't good and need to be kept at 10 or less.
Reactor has Denitrate at this time. Figured I would use as calcium reactor later.
Nitrates were 40+, Still 20 now, after 60 gal water change. Phosphates are .25.
I have no automated equipment except my lights. All is manual, and in my front room. Calcium varies from 360 to 400. I add cal when on lower end. Have dosed small amount of iron for plants, but trying to be careful.
Ammonia and nitrites are always 0. KH

What does "but all other water parameters are good. " mean to you?

Phosphate needs to be sufficient, and dosing trace elements such as iron and manganese can make a big difference for macroalgae.

CO2 is not the issue.

Thanks for responding Randy!
Nitrates were 40+, Still 20 now, after 60 gal water change. Phosphates are .25.
I have no automated equipment except my lights. All is manual, and in my front room. Calcium varies from 360 to 400. I add cal when on lower end. Have dosed small amount of iron for plants, but trying to be careful. I have trace minerals, but it doesn't say how much to use. KH 8.4, PH always between 8 and 8.2 until changed to Reef Crystals from Instant Ocean this last water change. Now is 7.8 - 8.
Ammonia and nitrites are always 0. I haven't seen test for manganese and iron. Magnesium is always 1400-1500. My experiences with test kits are very frustrating. Used API, then Red Sea Foundation Pro, ca kh mg. Now Salifert Nitrate. Salifert is completely different.
Glad its not co2! Would be just 1 more thing to worry about. I spend all my time researching for this hobby but there isn't always an answer.

So happy to have experts to help!

I would say that your lights are probably the biggest issue. The zoas in the second picture are really stretching. This would also be an issue for plants not growing. What kind of lights are you running? What are the other parameters in your tank? It doesn't look like you have an issue with algae growing everywhere and probably there is no reason to dose carbons. What are you running in the new reactor? I wouldn't worry about the nitrates unless you are having issues with them. The blob looks like a sponge to me.

Those Blennies are as ferocious as my Labradors

 

[Lenett]

Alright, guys this site is crazy. I clicked post for Randy and I guess it sent for DED65 also. My long spine was eating my acro as well. Not enough algae for the urchins i guess!
Thanks so much, both Randy and DED65 for your help! Just couldn't find answers through research. I knew not enough algae and plants, but just not why!
Before tank reseal I has experience with algae overwhelming. Then moved lights and no algae but overwhelming diatoms. Someone said too much silicates and phosphates. Much contradictory information!
I will adjust lighting as per your expert suggestions!
Hopefully my corals should be happier now! Would love to see them grow!

Will be happy for all feedback!

Sincerely,
Lenett

PS, I figured the blob was a sponge! Is it okay to keep? Growing fast!

 

[DED65]

Your tank could be a little deep for those lights. I assume that you have a glass top? If so, the glass can reduce the light reaching into the tank and you would also increase oxygenation by switching to a screen top. I don't have experience with urchins, but I have read that they do consume coralline algae. For a recommendation on lights check out the lighting forum, see what you like and the selling forum is a place you can find some good deals. I run Kessil A360's on my smaller tanks and ReefBreeders Photons on my larger tank. They both have plenty of power and only run at a percentage of the power they can put out. I do smaller water changes more often, 10-15% weekly to keep the tanks consistent. Making the large water changes affects the water chemistry more, the inhabitants need to adjust to new nutrient levels and that can put stress on them. You will want to find a happy medium for your tank, changes should be slow though. In my opinion, some people tend to take algae too seriously. As long as it is under control and not overtaking the tank, it is part of the natural ecosystem and helps keep nutrients under control.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

Someone said too much silicates and phosphates. Much contradictory information!

Ignore that advice. There is no situation where silicate at any level and phosphate at 0.25 ppm is causing a macroalgae problem.

It is possible the macroalgae are missing a trace element (iron and manganese especially) so try a trace element mixture.

It is possible they were damaged before you go then and would never survive.

maybe the issue relate to lighting, flow, etc.

 

[Lenett]

Ignore that advice. There is no situation where silicate at any level and phosphate at 0.25 ppm is causing a macroalgae problem.

It is possible the macroalgae are missing a trace element (iron and manganese especially) so try a trace element mixture.

It is possible they were damaged before you go then and would never survive.

maybe the issue relate to lighting, flow, etc.

Thanks Randy!
I am transferring my plants from my 17 gal fluvial when overgrown to 175 gal, so are in good shape to begin with. Others have been ordered from RUSALTY and always arrive in good condition. How do you know the amount of trace elements to add? Also what brand do use use? I will search for better lighting, as per you and DED65.

Your tank could be a little deep for those lights. I assume that you have a glass top? If so, the glass can reduce the light reaching into the tank and you would also increase oxygenation by switching to a screen top. I don't have experience with urchins, but I have read that they do consume coralline algae. For a recommendation on lights check out the lighting forum, see what you like and the selling forum is a place you can find some good deals. I run Kessil A360's on my smaller tanks and ReefBreeders Photons on my larger tank. They both have plenty of power and only run at a percentage of the power they can put out. I do smaller water changes more often, 10-15% weekly to keep the tanks consistent. Making the large water changes affects the water chemistry more, the inhabitants need to adjust to new nutrient levels and that can put stress on them. You will want to find a happy medium for your tank, changes should be slow though. In my opinion, some people tend to take algae too seriously. As long as it is under control and not overtaking the tank, it is part of the natural ecosystem and helps keep nutrients under control.

 

[Lenett]

Thanks Randy!
I am transferring my plants from my 17 gal fluvial when overgrown to 175 gal, so are in good shape to begin with. Others have been ordered from RUSALTY and always arrive in good condition. How do you know the amount of trace elements to add? Also what brand do use use? I will search for better lighting, as per you and DED65.

Thanks Randy!
I am transferring my plants from my 17 gal fluvial when overgrown to 175 gal, so are in good shape to begin with. Others have been ordered from RUSALTY and always arrive in good condition. How do you know the amount of trace elements to add? Also what brand do use use? I will search for better lighting, as per you and DED65.

Thanks Randy!
I am transferring my plants from my 17 gal fluvial when overgrown to 175 gal, so are in good shape to begin with. Others have been ordered from RUSALTY and always arrive in good condition. How do you know the amount of trace elements to add? Also what brand do use use? I will search for better lighting, as per you and DED65.

Thanks Randy!
I am transferring my plants from my 17 gal fluvial when overgrown to 175 gal, so are in good shape to begin with. Others have been ordered from RUSALTY and always arrive in good condition. How do you know the amount of trace elements to add? Also what brand do use use? I will search for better lighting, as per you and DED65.

Thanks DED65!
I will search for better lighting, as per your reference. Yes I have glass tops. Its very loud without them, but am working on that as well. I don't have a canopy so will need a cover that will look nice on display. Any ideas on that? Strange, there is a baby zoa growing on the bottom of tank on a bubble strip. Its at least 12" deeper than the one in pic. it must get more light there for some reason.

 

[Tired]

Try dosing Chaetogro, as well as improving your lights. It's a good trace element mixture for macros. Be sure to only use the amount it says, though, too much will irritate some corals slightly until you do a water change.

 

[Lenett]

Ignore that advice. There is no situation where silicate at any level and phosphate at 0.25 ppm is causing a macroalgae problem.

It is possible the macroalgae are missing a trace element (iron and manganese especially) so try a trace element mixture.

It is possible they were damaged before you go then and would never survive.

maybe the issue relate to lighting, flow, etc.

DED65, Randy and Tired,
Thanks for responding!
Dosed trace elements.
I have had my Oceanic 6 ft bowfront for 25 + years! I have had fish, but never able to keep corals long term.
As of your last post, I have been searching for lighting to reach lower in my tank. However, in the mean time, after moving lights lower to help keep plants alive, now the light sprinkling of brown on my substrate has become thick and hairy. It's overwhelming! It has not been problem before! Have had diatoms, but not this.

Sorry, but I'm freaking out right now!

Did a 60 gal water change last week, so that's not the issue! Unless it upset everything! I was using a phosphate bag, but have removed because exhausted. Have a nitrate reactor set up, but nitrates are 50. The Phosphate tests I have are producing a .25 result on both tanks and with 2 separate tests. one has date of 11/2021, the others date was 2015. It seems neither test is good, and my understanding is Phosphates will cause algae overgrowth. They must be high! I have always had higher phosphates.

Cant grow plants, but can grow brown algae? What am I missing?

So nitrate and phosphates are high. Do I use the No3O4-X to get under control or go back to vodka dosing?

I purchased No3O4-X, but it came with no instructions and a broken measuring cup. When it says 1, one what? ml? measuring cup full? and to how many gal.

My zoa is looking better though! Also, I just found my emerald crab sitting on substrate and shoving the brown algae in by the claw fulls. He just discovered it! He cleared about a 4" diameter area before moving on. I hope he comes back for more!
My 17 gal Fluvial is doing great!

Any help will be appreciated
Thanks,
Crazed

 

[Tired]

Your nitrates and phosphates aren't too bad, actually. Phosphates can encourage algae growth, but don't always. I wouldn't be trying to lower them by much, especially not with dosing, because you might very well end up with them too low as well and also upsetting your macroalgae. Just increase water changes a bit if you really want them lower.