I also have heard that it isn’t wise to run them off an EB832. I have the same BRS heater as well as a different heating element (brand escapes me). I admit I’m running mine off an EB832.
Mine are set to the exact same programming but one is off. If I get a low temp error I can just flip them over. I know this could be programmed but I’m lazy.
As for the idea that one heater is only capable of say 80% so if one gets stuck “on” you’re good, that’s less of a likely scenario using heating elements tied to the same (Neptune) temp probe. If the probe falls out of the tank, they’ll both still run and you’ll have 100+ gallons of gumbo in your home. I have never heard of an EB832 failing in the “on” position. On mine the 24v failed but the ports worked fine IIRC.
An idea is to use one heater with a built in thermostat. Calibrate and get it dialed in. Plug it into a WI-FI plug independent of the Apex and leave it off. Then run the other heater off the Apex as normal and if there’s a low temp issue, use the Wi-Fi plug to remotely activate the other heater. This creates a redundancy outside the Apex which cures issues with connectivity, software, failed hardware, etc.
I think personally my plan is to use two heaters but each capable of heating the tank. Then putting an Apex temp sensor in the DT in the overflow and one in the sump in case one craps out. I also suggest a water level sensor glued to your temp sensor…yes glued. If the Temp sensor is in air, the optical sensor will be too and flip and turn off the heater (fingers crossed). I think with the Apex this is the biggest concern- the temp sensor slipping out of the water or malfunctioning.
As for not using the EB832. I can’t actually find one off the shelf but there is a device that is either 24v or 12v that sits between a wall outlet and 120v plug. When it is energized, it energizes the outlet.
AutoAqua makes one so you can use your own pump with their ATO. I used it for 4 years and I still own it. Very reliable although not running 600w, 8x a day. Tunze makes one for their Osmolator that has bare wiring which looks beefier. Hypothetically you could use it with a 24v Neptune Apex port as well. I have the AutoAqua in hand and the Tunze version is on its way this week and I can check the voltage if you like. Even if it’s 12v, you can get a buck converter from
Amazon to drop 24v to 12v for around $10 and they have been incredibly reliable and are easy to hook up. So you’d have a heater plugged into a non-Apex wall receptacle but controlled by the Apex. The 24v ports don’t get stuck on.
