Multiple pumps is sump - bad ?

[get-salty]

Hello all. I’m setting up a brand new tank with a 34” glass sump. I’ve setup 2 pumps - one main and one for a UV. The main pump is OC in the last chamber and the UV pump is in the skimmer chamber - middle. My buddy said maybe it’s better to split the main pump and add a ball valve. Having 2 pumps might produce more heat. Will adding an additional pump be a huge issue ? Thanks in advance !

 

[ErikVR]

I don't see how that could be bad. I have a DC return pump and a DC pump for my UV.
Allows me to fine tune the flow. And the second DC pump only uses 8W. So heat is not an issue at all.

 

[get-salty]

I don't see how that could be bad. I have a DC return pump and a DC pump for my UV.
Allows me to fine tune the flow. And the second DC pump only uses 8W. So heat is not an issue at all.

More info .. I have a 900 gph dc and a 1700 gph dc as well. Great , thank you ! Honestly I don’t think it’s a huge problem. Guess I can undo it if needed.

 

[FishTruck]

The number of watts used by a submerged pump will have roughly the same effect as the same number of watts of heater. All inefficiencies and the energy transfer of moving water becomes heat.

DC pumps are generally more efficient (more water pumped on less watts therefore less heat).

Non submerged pumps can vent that heat to the air - instead of the tank.

The number of pumps does not matter, just the total wattage of submerged pump(s).

 

[SteveMM62Reef]

I have Three Simplicity Pumps in my Sump. 1600 set at 8, 1600 set at 4, 1000 set at 3 or 4, this on is for my skimmer. A Jebao CP 120 set at 8. A 9watt UV, Manifolded off one of the 1600, 120 Gallon Aquarium, Glass Top, LED’s Three 44” ReefBars and Two 10” ReefBars 2-1/4” from the top. My Aquarium runs between 76.4 to 77.0 F, in a 72 to 74 F Basement. The Pumps , except for the Wave Pump are in a Ruby 36S Trigger Sump. BTW My Aquariums would over heat in the summer with Danner Pumps. Winter I run a heater, not sure how much it runs.

 

[FishTruck]

Also, adjustable DC pumps are great for UV, you can dial in the flow much easier and cheaper than trying to do it with a ball valve and flow meter. Most of them show you the wattage.

 

[Uncle99]

I use the one pump with valve to run both, but take and return UV water directly to and from the display, rather than sump.
Increases effectiveness IMM.

But it will work.

 

[get-salty]

Also, adjustable DC pumps are great for UV, you can dial in the flow much easier and cheaper than trying to do it with a ball valve and flow meter. Most of them show you the wattage.

My Jebao is rated 900 gph. I’ve dry test it at lowest setting and did the calculation - 240 gph… I’m guessing once it’s all connected with one L shape fitting , it’ll drop down a little bit. Think 200-240 gph help with controller itch ? Or should I get a smaller pump. Thanks

 

[get-salty]

I use the one pump with valve to run both, but take and return UV water directly to and from the display, rather than sump.
Increases effectiveness IMM.

But it will work.

What is your UV schedule like ? How many hrs a day ? Thanks

 

[Tcook]

I have two Cor 20 pumps in my sump. One is a direct return. The other run my UV and chiller off a manifold then return. UV runs 24/7.

 

[get-salty]

I have two Cor 20 pumps in my sump. One is a direct return. The other run my UV and chiller off a manifold then return. UV runs 24/7.

are both pumps in the return chamber ? I have my uv pump in the skimmer section. Is that ok or should I move it to main return area.

 

[Cichlid Dad]

I ran my tank the last part of this summer with three pumps in my sump. A closed loop, regular return and carbon gfo reactor. No ac or chiller, just a small fan over the return section. I'm in western Washington so it wasn't 100 degrees though.

 

[Tcook]

are both pumps in the return chamber ? I have my uv pump in the skimmer section. Is that ok or should I move it to main return area.

Both in the return chamber. My skimmer chamber has too many micro bubbles.

 

[SteveMM62Reef]

Both in the return chamber. My skimmer chamber has too many micro bubbles.

I have the Ruby Trigger, I put the heaters under the foam pump protector sponge. One on the second grate down, the other one on the bottom of the sump, tucked under the the second grate. This is to keep from breaking or setting anything on top of the heaters.

 

[Tcook]

I have the Ruby Trigger, I put the heaters under the foam pump protector sponge. One on the second grate down, the other one on the bottom of the sump, tucked under the the second grate. This is to keep from breaking or setting anything on top of the heaters.

Great idea. I have my two heaters now mounted on a magnetic rack since the water test in that photo.

 

[Uncle99]

What is your UV schedule like ? How many hrs a day ? Thanks

Turns on at lights out and off when lights on, every day.
55watts Jebao, the flow is low at about 50-100 gph as I use it for parasite control only.

When I first used it was for Dino’s, and it did take them out fast, say a week or so, but running 400 gph, turning over every 30-40minutes. But once completed then what?

So I though I would target parasites just in case.

Does it provide any value?

Truth is I have no parasites and nothing appears harmed by the use, but have no idea if it’s doing anything, sometimes in reefing, it’s a bit of a “leap of faith” as we see nothing happening, or a least, looks that way.

I may get brave and turn it off for a while and see what happens.

Just keep in mind when UV sterilizes it’s does so indiscriminately, so your stopping both bad (and good) algaes from populating at the same time.

That can be counterproductive in some situations, ie, a new system where we trying to build processors.

 

[DJF]

No issue assuming your sump can handle the extra water volume introduced by the extra plumbing.

 

[get-salty]

No issue assuming your sump can handle the extra water volume introduced by the extra plumbing.

I’m not sure. I’m fairly new lol. It’s a 34” sump (?)

 

[CBonito]

I’m not sure. I’m fairly new lol. It’s a 34” sump (?)

It's about how much water will drain back into the sump from the extra plumbing when the pumps are turned off, or when power goes out. You'll have to make sure your sump wont overflow from the extra water volume coming back down.

Since varios pumps don't produce a lot of pressure, I would go with the separate pump for the UV.
If you don't want any water to drain back into the sump from the uv/returns when you lose or kill power, you can get a one way check valve which will stop it.

These are the best ones...the price is pure ****, but they are pretty much a lifetime part.

Wye Check Valve

Why does BRS recommend this? Check valves are always a good idea to have, however when it comes to reliability you get what you pay for. There are other good check valves on the market but we feel that the Georg Fischer Wye check valve is by far the most superior. They have a removable plunger...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

 

[Mark Gray]

I have not really noticed much heat increase from my pumps. I have 2 Cor20s outside the sump for my return, I have a skimmer pump I have a media pump, I have an Ozone reactor pump, and I had a calcium reactor pump but I have taken this one out until I can make some modifications, lol wish I had more time.