Muriatic Acid to clean rocks

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Bryan47

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Hey guys! So when I recently moved from
My 55 gallon reef to my 72 bow front I also upgraded the sump from 13G to 29G. I still need to add sump dividers and a better skimmer but it was really become a cyano/algae tank and I was at the point of just selling the tank. But I knew if I quit at the hobby I would be disappointed in myself and I would be doing just that, giving up.

So I decided I needed to do a serious overhaul and I am replacing all of the sand which is very fine and gets everywhere and isn't live with all brand new live sand. I'm thinking maybe the special grade stuff I've heard a lot about. How many bags is appropriate for a 72G bow front?

Also my rocks were a nightmare and covered in cyano. This new place has a lot of windows but I keep the shades down. Another problem I have is my light schedule is 5pm to about midnight so I think between all the daylight sun that filters in I need to adjust to 11am to 7pm so that at night the tank is dark. I think I'm creating a light cycle that is way too long inadvertently. So I kept the 3 least corroded pieces of lives rock in the tank. I may even clean these and buy fresh live rock to seed my cleaned rock but we all know the hitchhikers that can come from that.

Will the live sand seed my dry rock?

So back to my original point. I tried boiling one rock and yes I used proper ventilation incase of any poisonous residue but even that didn't do the trick. So I saw a post online about Muriatic acid which I had never heard of and thought why not. So I tried it on 3 rocks and I was amazed at the results. I was left with clean dry rock that I can restart with. I after let them soak for three days in a heavy mixture of baking soda and water to neutralize and acid.

I then let hem soak for two days in just water and rinsed them heavily. Let them dry, and rinsed them again.

They look good as new and other people that have done it have had no ill after effects. I also think the acid helped to create more pores in the rocks giving more surface area for beneficial bacteria.

I'm hoping maybe Randy Holmes-Farley can chirp in with the excellent brain of his but I know we have plenty of great other minds and people who may have done this before. As much as I didn't want to effectively start over I was fighting a losing battle and sometimes you've got to regroup and then march forward!

I lost one fish in the move and one container of corals I forgot in the car. The cyano was absolutely thriving. Is there any benefit to this stuff because I could be a really good cyano farmer :)

Here's to building a bigger and better reef as I enter year two of the hobby. It feels like I've been doing it for years but I know I have a lot to learn and I do feel I have a lot of knowledge to impart on others and isn't that what great forums like R2R are all about. By the way I posted a picture below of the finished rock. I really wish I took a before because you couldn't even recognize these rocks.

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I did the same thing with my rock.

I just used dry sand as well. If your going to start fresh, go all fresh.

Just cycle like normal, just takes a little longer is all.
 
I did the acid bath and then treated with phosphate remover, lanthanum chloride. I also used dry sand. Cycle with Bio-spira and a either a shrimp or dose ammonia chloride. Also had good results with Dr. Times One and Only. As stated above it will take a bit longer. Also keep the light cycle as low as possible. I'm at the 2 month mark and had algea outbreak more severe than average. I think gfo and carbon will help to remove any excess PO4 that will leach as the rock buffers in. I used zero live rock and would recommend it that way.
 
I have used rock that has dried in the sun after a nice bath in fresh water from the hose out back. Take the Rock and place in tank with or without sand. Then feed tank a little bit to start cycling. About a month later you will be good to go. My recent tank has all man made rock. I transferred some frags from my other tank. My tank actually has more pods starfish snails then any tank I've ever had. Maybe it's because they can't hide in man made rocks well. But the live stuff comes in on frags over time. Here is a pic of the tank first setup and now.
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Acid treatment of live rock is a good way too strip off the outer layer, removing phosphate, copper, organics, and other undesirables that might be on it.

I typically recommend 1 part acid diluted into 10 parts water.
 
I did the acid bath and then treated with phosphate remover, lanthanum chloride. I also used dry sand. Cycle with Bio-spira and a either a shrimp or dose ammonia chloride. Also had good results with Dr. Times One and Only. As stated above it will take a bit longer. Also keep the light cycle as low as possible. I'm at the 2 month mark and had algea outbreak more severe than average. I think gfo and carbon will help to remove any excess PO4 that will leach as the rock buffers in. I used zero live rock and would recommend it that way.

I have followed this same process, my rocks are still in the brute cans because my tank is still in the process of being built. The rocks have cycled, so I now ghost feed. My question is why do you think you had such a bad algae out break, shouldn't the LC have removed the phosphates and made the appearance of algae less severe?
 
I think it was a combo of various things.

1). Lighting was to intense for too long- not on a timer.

2) I was broadcast feeding home made bender mush. I think more of it was settling under rocks than I thought.

3) lack of cleaning. The sand looked clean and my readings were 0 so I only did one small WC in 2 months. This PO4...

4) The lanthanum chloride only pulls out PO4 from the water column, which is more easily release form the outer layer of the rock after the acid bath. Therefore ( in my theory anyway ) as the rock buffers in, or dissolves until the tank equalizes more PO4 is released and needs to be removed.

Combine these things with general new tank uglies and you have a perfect storm for algea! That being said I WILL definitely use this method to clean my rocks again!

However, to do it over again I would run gfo from day 1. Then back off if desired. I would start with 4hrs of lighting and move up to 12 over several week.

I dipped my frags but I left them attached to the plugs. I think the algea was seeded from these plugs as it grew on them first and the worst.
 
Thanks I'll follow that advice. The uglies drove me crazy with my first tank, live rock and inexperienced, I almost gave up, still battling aptasia on and off
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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