Muriatic acid?

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smh254

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Can I use this to lower ALK in freshly mixed saltwater.? Do I just add a little bit at a time and test until it gets to the level I would like it?
 
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I've read multiple places that this will lower the pH and the alkalinity in freshly mixed saltwater. I'm not going to add it to my display I just want to lower the alkalinity from 10 to 8.
 
I used 2ml to about 4.5 gallons of water and brought the alk down from 9.9 to around 7.9. Dont just take my word for it. Test yours to figure out how much you need to get to where you want to be. I figured I'd give you a ballpark starting point.
 
Man I used that stuff on my pukani rock to clean it and it was some nasty chit. What type of tank do you have. Reef or fish only.
 
I have a 40 breeder with a 20 gallon sump full of SPS coral and fish. My tank runs at 7.7 to 8.2 dkh and the salt I have mixes to 10.3 dkh. I normally do a 5 gallon water change so not much is affected but if I do anymore than that my SPS don't fare so well. I will be switching the salt brands but I would like to use this that I have.
 
Here's a cut and paste for standard muriatic acid. Yours is more dilute (to get less fumes and cost less):

You can use muriatic acid or certain freshwater buffers to lower alk.
Both will lower pH similarly and a lot. There's no way around the pH lowering when reducing alkalinity. You do not want to add CO2. You want to remove CO2 from the tank via aeration.

For that reason, it is best to do it in water change water that is aerated to raise pH before using, or to do it very slowly in the tank (over many days).

The "acidity" (that being essentially negative alkalinity) of muriatic acid straight from the bottle is about 11,000 meq/L.

So adding 1/11,000 of the water volume as this acid will drop alkalinity by 1 meq/l (2.8 dKH).

I would not drop more than 1 dKH per day due to the big pH drop in a reef tank, but in new salt water it is fine.

You'll need to aerate well after adding the acid to blow off the excess CO2 and bring up the pH.

You can also use Seachem Acid Buffer:

http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/AcidBuffer.html
 
I'm curious as to why you say don't do it. I did it for the first time a week ago and it worked perfectly.

Sure it worked. I guess we just have two completely different sets of issues. In my 40g with two clams, an elegance, and a few stony frags, it's all I can do to keep my alk above 8 dkh. This AM it was 6.9 dkh and the pH was 7.9. I run saturated BRS kalkwasser in my ATO, and I do 30% monthly water changes with hwMarine Reefer salt.
 
Sure it worked. I guess we just have two completely different sets of issues. In my 40g with two clams, an elegance, and a few stony frags, it's all I can do to keep my alk above 8 dkh. This AM it was 6.9 dkh and the pH was 7.9. I run saturated BRS kalkwasser in my ATO, and I do 30% monthly water changes with hwMarine Reefer salt.

OK? That still doesn't answer the question to your reply. This was your quote "Sure, but dont. Muriatic is just a commercial name for HCL and water."
 
OK? That still doesn't answer the question to your reply. This was your quote "Sure, but dont. Muriatic is just a commercial name for HCL and water."

My point was not to get hung up on commercial terms like Muriatic acid (Bleach is another). Its just an over-the-counter HCL/water solution (not lab grade). Like I said previously, it's the last thing I would do, however if smh254 has a need, and follows Randy's procedure, then I'm sure its ok.

Does that make sense?
 
A little update. Friday night I mixed up 15 gallons of salt water and added 8 mL of Muriatic acid. This dropped the dkh from 10.4 to 8.3. Saturday morning I did a water change with no side effects at all. If I would've done this without adding the acid my SPS coral would have shown signs of burnt tips from the alk swing.
 

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