In not sure if it's dead or what, but it's looked like this before. But it's never looked like this for more than 24 hours. It's still attached to it's rock. I have no idea what's wrong, or what to do... I do know if they die, they need to be taken out asap..
My Anemone looks like it's dead or dying.
- Thread starter terrie209
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ReefMadScientist
Valuable Member
Sorry for your loss.
Its not dead yet but it is not healthy. Do you have a gentle current running on it?If you have this anemone near the top of your tank, that is the wrong location for it. If you can move him easily, put him on the bottom of your tank, next to the reef so he can dig in if he chooses.
ReefMadScientist
Valuable Member
Has he been spewing brown stuff out of its mouth? I don't like being the person of bad news but I think it is pretty much on its way out.
If you wan't to peel him off the rock, gently put your fingers under it and work your way to the middle until you get its foot dismounted. I usually would suggest a credit card but it appears that rock is pretty rough.
How long have you had it Terrie? What kind of light do you have? Did the anemone choose this location? or has he just stayed where you put him?No dont peel it if it is not already loose on an edge.Give him a little current. Not a lot.Can you take a full tank shot?
Had him probably five months. He picked the
spot . And no brown stuff coming out of his mouth.. I won't pull him off. I felt a tinge, when I touched him a few min ago .. lol I just don't want to make matters worse..
spot . And no brown stuff coming out of his mouth.. I won't pull him off. I felt a tinge, when I touched him a few min ago .. lol I just don't want to make matters worse..
Trex
Valuable Member
Need some info...
What size tank?
What lights?
How long has the tank been up?
What are your current water parameters --- with numbers please.
What has changed recently? (( doesn't matter how minor )). Any pictures from when it looked better?
Have you fed it recently? If so, what?
Are you using tap or RO/DI water? If RO/DI, what is the TDS.
What size tank?
What lights?
How long has the tank been up?
What are your current water parameters --- with numbers please.
What has changed recently? (( doesn't matter how minor )). Any pictures from when it looked better?
Have you fed it recently? If so, what?
Are you using tap or RO/DI water? If RO/DI, what is the TDS.
30 gal bio cube, sorry, all I know is florescent lights, been running 7 months, parameters, not sure but I took my water and has it tested yesterday, everything is great, only pH is a very little bit low. And yes my clown fed it three days ago and it was fine. I'm not at home, so I'm not sure what the frozen food is called. He eats it all the time.. Yes RODI Water definitely ! What is TDS ?
Trex
Valuable Member
T --- Total
D --- Dissolved
S --- Solids.
In a general terms, it is a way to tell how pure the RO/DI water is. 0 is ideal. My tap water is around 160, but I places like Az and FLA can have it be in the 600s.
A TDS meter is (( IMO/E )) a must. Years ago I would get my RO/DI from an LFS, but was still having issues, I finally tested their water, it was 100. Picked up my own RO/DI the next day.
I don't think this is from your lights, but what type would be nice to know.
What was the pH?
Can you at least test your SG/Salinity?
Knowing the numbers for your parameters would go a long way towards figuring this out.
D --- Dissolved
S --- Solids.
In a general terms, it is a way to tell how pure the RO/DI water is. 0 is ideal. My tap water is around 160, but I places like Az and FLA can have it be in the 600s.
A TDS meter is (( IMO/E )) a must. Years ago I would get my RO/DI from an LFS, but was still having issues, I finally tested their water, it was 100. Picked up my own RO/DI the next day.
I don't think this is from your lights, but what type would be nice to know.
What was the pH?
Can you at least test your SG/Salinity?
Knowing the numbers for your parameters would go a long way towards figuring this out.
Trex
Valuable Member
8.0 is fine. Though, pH can be difficult to test at an LFS --- the transporting of the water to an LFS can introduce O2 into the water and change the results.
Plus, pH levels will be different at different times during the light cycle --- lower in the middle of night (( with lights off )) and higher during the day (( lights on )). Personally,
if Cal, Alk, and Mag levels are in check, wouldn't worry about the pH all that much.
Plus, pH levels will be different at different times during the light cycle --- lower in the middle of night (( with lights off )) and higher during the day (( lights on )). Personally,
if Cal, Alk, and Mag levels are in check, wouldn't worry about the pH all that much.
They tested the salinity, and it was fine, I'll do it again when I get home
Thank you so much, I really need to figure out what's wrong ! I have lost two emerald crabs about a month and a half ago, but my other fish are okay. Other crabs are ok, and the corals look really good , they could use more color.
Thank you so much, I really need to figure out what's wrong ! I have lost two emerald crabs about a month and a half ago, but my other fish are okay. Other crabs are ok, and the corals look really good , they could use more color.
Trex
Valuable Member
The problem with "fine" is that we don't know how they are defining that. For a lot of LFS's 1.017 would be considered fine, when it actually should be around 1.025.
At some point having your own test kits and refractometer (( to measure salinity/SG )) will be very helpful. Problems will occur when the LFS is closed, or you can't get to it.
To be honest, at this point we aren't sure that the water is "okay" --- don't have the numbers to know for sure.
However, I have seen E. quadricolors (( BTA, which you have )) look a lot worse and recovery, so I am not too worried yet.
Has anything changed? Add anything recently?
Is the Sea Hare still in alive in your tank?
