So do you suggest using the ADJ power strip, or just wiring up a bank of outlets controlled by an 8 channel relay?The American DJ strips were "just the relay" - no FET or transistor was provided to make it logic level. Not a big deal.
Also the one I had testing the Pico boards literally had a defect on the PCB which meant some relays didn't work. Quality was not high
My Current build
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Sral
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In the end it works about the same, in my oppinion.
With the ADJ strip you need a ULN2803 IC to run it, but have the AC side pre-assembled and in a casing. You buy that with possible quality issues, although I do not recall anybody else reporting those issues before, so I could not tell how often those arise.
With the 5V relay board you should probably use a ULN2803 IC as well, since every activated channel puts some activation current through the PI‘s pin. In total I think there should not be more than some 60mA or so running through all GPIO pins in total, so these relay channels might put you closer to this than you are comfortable with. At least that was the case for me, although I might just be paranoid, since there have been a few people ( including the leviathan board) that run 8 channel relay board directly on the pins seemingly without issues.
With a 12V board you would definitely need a ULN2803 in between, although the 12V boards are much less common because of that.
Downside is of course that you have to do the AC wiring and casing yourself, which comes with some risk, I would say.
My objection to the ADJ strip is that it's +$50, and seems to have a number of quality issues. Somewhere there's a post where someone opened the ADJ power strip up and it's basically just a bus of outlets with an 8 channel relay.
A few years ago I made a holiday light controller using a RPi and a bank of outlets. I drove the outlets right from the RPi, no other circuits or electronics were used (and I followed an online tutorial, I didn't come up with this myself). Those lights flipped on an off many, many times each minute, and I had zero issues. I've used the light controller many years over without an issue.
Presently, I am working on my Reef-Pi power controller and I do have and plan to use the ULN 2803A circuit. I have both 5v and 12v relays I can use. I'm just trying to decide over using the ADJ power bar or just a bank of outlets.
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Broady2067
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Update coming soon. Re-building the box.
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Broady2067
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Progress so far. I have started to secure everything with nylon spacers, screws and nuts where needed. Re-routed some wires and made good some connections that were a little shonky. Next i need to wire up all the loose wires with better connectors, anyone have any thoughts on what to use?
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Broady2067
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You can't see in this photo but the two temp aviation plugs are fitted to the bottom left.Progress so far. I have started to secure everything with nylon spacers, screws and nuts where needed. Re-routed some wires and made good some connections that were a little shonky. Next i need to wire up all the loose wires with better connectors, anyone have any thoughts on what to use?
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Broady2067
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To power on the Pi it has a PiSwitch in line from the fuses. I am hoping to fit a switch onto the housing and doing away with it. Comments and suggestions always welcome. ( I need help). Also have a small project box i am hoping to house the PH and ORP sensors in using a ESP32.
Sral
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Well, I think there are switch-style push buttons that lock in place after being pushed and vice versa. Would that do the trick ?
To power on the Pi it has a PiSwitch in line from the fuses. I am hoping to fit a switch onto the housing and doing away with it. Comments and suggestions always welcome. ( I need help). Also have a small project box i am hoping to house the PH and ORP sensors in using a ESP32.
pH and ORP Sensors on an ESP sounds like a nice idea. With my updated code that should be fairly easy if you are using either two Robo-Tank pH circuits, or the Atlas Scientific ones.
Regarding the search for connectors: what loose cables are you looking to fix ? I'm guessing the +12V DC ones that are currently not connected on the AC/DC converter on the left, right ?
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Broady2067
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Push button is the ideal, that was my thought. Should i go for an illuminated one or not?
As for the loose wires you are spot on. I want make them as less intrusive as possible for the clean but functional use.
PH sensors i have some cheaper ones from Alli express. Will be interesting to see if the cheaper alternative is viable.
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Broady2067
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Chillers
I have been toying with the idea of building a diy version using a Halfords cooler that can plug in. Coiling the inside with 16mm pvc tubing and fitting glands to the outside. A cheap return pump fitted to the tank or manifold from main return. Also to get temp down in hot weather can fill the box with ice or alternatively a pc cpu cooler?
I have been toying with the idea of building a diy version using a Halfords cooler that can plug in. Coiling the inside with 16mm pvc tubing and fitting glands to the outside. A cheap return pump fitted to the tank or manifold from main return. Also to get temp down in hot weather can fill the box with ice or alternatively a pc cpu cooler?
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Broady2067
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PH sensor from Alli Express
Sral
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Cool idea. I bit spacious though and I'm not sure how much cooling power you will get out of that one ... I'm afraid it might not be enough. Based on my project for a self heating mug, I'd guesstimate about 10W of heat influx into the tank per m^2 of glass surface and degree celsius of room temperature above tank temperature.
So for a nano cube with 500mm edge length (~20 inch), a tank temperature of 24°C (~75°F) and a room temperature of 30°C (~86°F) you would get in the ballpark of 75W of heat through the glass. That's a rather large Halford cooler I imagine.
You might build something similar by providing the external box with evaporation cooling, although that would probably be more elaborate.
Also, I calculated the amount of ice: 1 kg of ice has about 100 Wh, so you would need about 1 kg per hour in the above situation.
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Broady2067
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Can anyone see any reason these cannot be used in my setup?PH sensor from Alli Express
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Broady2067
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So today this happened. If you know you know.
Sral
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that’s … unfortunate. How did that happen ?
You think you can resolder it ?
You might try replacing that capacitor with a similar one. 220- 330uF 50V should be fine. You might even take one with a lower voltage rating, since you don’t go towards the upper output limit of 32V
You think you can resolder it ?
You might try replacing that capacitor with a similar one. 220- 330uF 50V should be fine. You might even take one with a lower voltage rating, since you don’t go towards the upper output limit of 32V
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Broady2067
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I tested it with my multimeter and the is still continuity and it is fine. However my skill set for soldering is limited along with my dodgy arm and bad eyes. Lol. besides a pack of 5 from Amazon is only £6.99, €8.07,or $8.56. They are being delivered later today.
