My Current QT Process

[HotRocks]

The editing on the mobile version is giving me conniptions. I tabbed out to check an email, had to log back in, previous response was gone so I retyped, pushed ‘post’ and now both replies are merged into 1...

Thanks for the info Kyle!

I can fix it!

 

[HotRocks]

Anyone care to check my math?

Looks good to me

 

[HotRocks]

I wanted to thank @HotRocks and others that helped me in this thread. My first fish were 3 clowns that I QT'ed and basically ended up QT'ing twice (long story for another day). They have been in the DT now post QT for a little over a month and doing great. One clown is being hosted by my rbta and the other two hang around together. eating a variety of foods but I am narrowing it down to certain pellets and homemade frozen food. They look great and healthy and through the whole QT process I never saw them poop. LOL, but I have seen them do it in the QT and that looks healthy as well. haha

Thanks again everyone.

Really glad to hear that thank you for sharing!

 

[HotRocks]

The editing on the mobile version is giving me conniptions. I tabbed out to check an email, had to log back in, previous response was gone so I retyped, pushed ‘post’ and now both replies are merged into 1...

Thanks for the info Kyle!

Neil,
I got to thinking about this tonight... If you are worried about medicating the anthias, I have something you could try.

If you aren't afraid of TTM, and can pick up a bottle of hydrogen peroxide you could give them a h2o2 bath for 30 minutes followed by TTM or copper.

The Hydrogen peroxide will eliminate everything except for ich. So that's why you'd need to follow up with either copper or TTM. I always worry about Uronema with anthias, so that would eliminate that component and then you could get them eating well before whatever route you want to take to make sure you don't introduce ich. Something to think about.

Hydrogen Peroxide

** This information was originally posted here: https://humble.fish/community/index.php?threads/hydrogen-peroxide.21/ ** Hydrogen Peroxide *** The information contained here is subject to frequent changes as I experiment and learn more about the usefulness of H2O2 *** What It Treats – Provides...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[CDavmd]

Hi @HotRocks so I reached day 15 of my QT in copper after my Ich/Velvet breakout. Fish have all gotten through it except for one firefish. I was going to transfer them to new clean tanks and do the General Cure dosing but I noticed my banana wrasse was still scratching. They have been fed the general cure/focus mix for the last couple weeks. I checked the copper level that has run consistently about 2.0 and it was 1.93 this morning. The 0.07 I feel should be within the margin of error but I dosed a touch for good measure.

So what to do? Should I move them to the new sterile tanks and proceed or leave them in the copper tanks for 2 more weeks?

Have to say this is a bit frustrating

 

[HotRocks]

Hi @HotRocks so I reached day 15 of my QT in copper after my Ich/Velvet breakout. Fish have all gotten through it except for one firefish. I was going to transfer them to new clean tanks and do the General Cure dosing but I noticed my banana wrasse was still scratching. They have been fed the general cure/focus mix for the last couple weeks. I checked the copper level that has run consistently about 2.0 and it was 1.93 this morning. The 0.07 I feel should be within the margin of error but I dosed a touch for good measure.

So what to do? Should I move them to the new sterile tanks and proceed or leave them in the copper tanks for 2 more weeks?

Have to say this is a bit frustrating

The scratching could be from flukes. I would go ahead and transfer them and proceed with the process. If for some reason ich/velvet made it through you can re run copper treatment at that point.

You could dip the Wrasse between tanks to confirm if flukes are present.

Freshwater Dip

Freshwater Dip What It Treats – Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases: 1) Marine Velvet Disease (Amyloodinium ocellatum) 2) Brooklynella hostilis 3) Uronema marinum 4) Flukes (Monogeneans) 5) Black Ich (Turbellarians) Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes (see video...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[CDavmd]

The scratching could be from flukes. I would go ahead and transfer them and proceed with the process. If for some reason ich/velvet made it through you can re run copper treatment at that point.

You could dip the Wrasse between tanks to confirm if flukes are present.

Freshwater Dip

Freshwater Dip What It Treats – Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases: 1) Marine Velvet Disease (Amyloodinium ocellatum) 2) Brooklynella hostilis 3) Uronema marinum 4) Flukes (Monogeneans) 5) Black Ich (Turbellarians) Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes (see video...

www.reef2reef.com

Thanks! Will do fingers crossed

 

[Lucidbeam]

If this has been answered I missed it and I'm sorry. The two tank method. I know the first QT should be 10 feet from DT. How far apart should the two QT tanks be from each other? Could the second QT be in the same room as the DT?

 

[HotRocks]

If this has been answered I missed it and I'm sorry. The two tank method. I know the first QT should be 10 feet from DT. How far apart should the two QT tanks be from each other? Could the second QT be in the same room as the DT?

To be safe, each tank should have 10' between it.

The observation tank could be in the same room as the DT as long as there is a 10' buffer and you are very obedient about cross contamination.

 

[Hallowhead]

Fish arrived and I went ahead and tested my QT tank one last time before and my ammonia is at .25ppm what do I do??

 

[HotRocks]

Fish arrived and I went ahead and tested my QT tank one last time before and my ammonia is at .25ppm what do I do??

Do you have copper in the tank already?

 

[Hallowhead]

Do you have copper in the tank already?

yes at 1.0ppm

 

[HotRocks]

yes at 1.0ppm

Test kit won't read accurate with copper present.

 

[HotRocks]

Do you have an ammonia badge in the tank? The read accurate with the presence of copper.

 

[Hallowhead]

Test kit won't read accurate with copper present.

so do you think it's okay to add my fish? Should I try to get some bio-spira if it's local?

 

[Hallowhead]

Do you have an ammonia badge in the tank? The read accurate with the presence of copper.

I do - however, it's ~ 5 months old. so I am not sure if it's still 100% accurate.

Was also out of the water for a couple days

 

[HotRocks]

so do you think it's okay to add my fish? Should I try to get some bio-spira if it's local?

Yes, you should be fine and I would definitely add some biospira just to be safe.

 

[Hallowhead]

Yes, you should be fine and I would definitely add some biospira just to be safe.

Going to the store now! One bottle left - it's the larger bottle so I'll just add a Dixie cup? For ten gallons ?

 

[HotRocks]

Going to the store now! One bottle left - it's the larger bottle so I'll just add a Dixie cup? For ten gallons ?

Going off of memory its an 8oz bottle that treats 75g. So you can use 1.5oz or so. It doesn't hurt to go a little heavy at all.

 

[Hallowhead]

Going off of memory its an 8oz bottle that treats 75g. So you can use 1.5oz or so. It doesn't hurt to go a little heavy at all.

Fish are in.. let my anxiety run