My Current QT Process

[HotRocks]

Just read through this entire thread. This is good stuff. I have a few questions (and probably more once I get started).

Do you still recommend the marineland HOB filters after discovering their poly filters absorb chemicals. Are the aquaclear HOB maybe a better option? What type of media are do you guys recommend for bacterial surface area?

As far as aerosol transmission, is that something we only need to worry about with the copper treatment tank? My idea is to keep a coral/invert QT and the 2nd stage QT for fish in one room and have the 1st stage copper tank in a completely different portion of the house.

I still keep 10’ between all tanks whether it’s a copper tank, observation tank, or a fishless coral QT.

I do still use the marine land HOB filters as well. I buy sponges in a large sheet and then just cut them to size to keep a surface area for bacteria to live upon. Also gives you some slight mechanical filtration as well if you cut them the same size as the factory inserts. I still use the factory inserts in observation tanks. If I decide to medicate an observation tank I just pull the factory filters while medicating. The only thing I ever use in an observation tank is praziquantel.

 

[HotRocks]

maybe i'll get more of a response in here..

my lyretail anthias i think ran into something in the tank about a week ago. i put her in the sump later that night and she just wasn't doing much. fast forward a couple of days and she developed some pretty bad popeye, so i gave her an epson salt bath. later that night, no improvement so the next day i got my qt tank going and put her in there. she went straight for a pvc pipe and hasn't left, that i've seen at least. i dosed kanaplex yesterday.. is there anything more i can do? the one side of her that i can see looks bad, like the eye might be gone

would adding some epson salt to the qt do anything? instructions for the kanaplex say dose more if the issue isn't fixed tomorrow..

Have you treated the fish for flukes? Do you have any pictures of the eye?

Typically what you describe is a secondary infection from the fluke affliction (not always).

Is the fish eating at all, are you medicating the food?

Epsom salt can help with the inflammation at times.

 

[mattzang]

Have you treated the fish for flukes? Do you have any pictures of the eye?

Typically what you describe is a secondary infection from the fluke affliction (not always).

Is the fish eating at all, are you medicating the food?

Epsom salt can help with the inflammation at times.

sorry i made a post a few days ago that was more comprehensive and forgot to add stuff

i did not qt or treat for flukes, but i've had her for over a year. never seen white poop or anything of that sort and she was an eating machine. haven't added any fish in like 6 months

she's not eating as far as i can tell (the eyes are really bad) not sure she can even see the food

i gave her an epson bath yesterday, but then she didn't look any better later last night so i got a qt tank going and dosed kanaplex. i was really hoping she'd be looking better today, but doesn't look any better. i was just hoping i could add some epson salt or whatever you thought.

i do have other meds on hand if you think it'd be good to dose them, but i'm fairly sure she just ran into something. she was good to go forever, then just down for the count.

i'll see if i can get a picture

 

[HotRocks]

sorry i made a post a few days ago that was more comprehensive and forgot to add stuff

i did not qt or treat for flukes, but i've had her for over a year. never seen white poop or anything of that sort and she was an eating machine. haven't added any fish in like 6 months

she's not eating as far as i can tell (the eyes are really bad) not sure she can even see the food

i gave her an epson bath yesterday, but then she didn't look any better later last night so i got a qt tank going and dosed kanaplex. i was really hoping she'd be looking better today, but doesn't look any better. i was just hoping i could add some epson salt or whatever you thought.

i do have other meds on hand if you think it'd be good to dose them, but i'm fairly sure she just ran into something. she was good to go forever, then just down for the count.

i'll see if i can get a picture

If it is both eyes that is probably why she is not eating and just hiding. Being both eyes makes me suspect flukes even more so.

Do you have any medications that contain eythromycin?

I would combine prazipro and eythromycin of it were me.

 

[mattzang]

that's her right now

this is her the day after it happened still in my tank

the white marks just look like stress colors to me, but let me know what you think. all the other fish in my tank look totally fine, hence why it seems like a sudden event

 

[mattzang]

If it is both eyes that is probably why she is not eating and just hiding. Being both eyes makes me suspect flukes even more so.

Do you have any medications that contain eythromycin?

I would combine prazipro and eythromycin of it were me.

i have metroplex kanaplex copper power and general cure

edit: and prazipro

 

[mattzang]

looks like petsmart has it in stock

https://www.petsmart.com/fish/food-...sh-bacterial-infection-treatment-5113625.html

that would work? anything else i should get while i'm there to have on hand?

if it's flukes, should i fresh water dip her to give her relief?

 

[HotRocks]

I would probably avoid the dip just because of the shape she’s in. That up to you.

IMO it would be safer to just dose the eythromycin and prazi.

I’m not exactly sure on the markings, probably just stress.

 

[mattzang]

alright the petsmart near me had the eythromycin stuff, dosed it.

these are all safe to use together yeah? would adding some epson salt do any good?

how do you guys keep track of all this stuff lol.

so if it's flukes.. what about all of the fish in my DT? do they all have it too? was the anthias living with it and i just fed enough to where it wasn't an issue, but then add the stress event of hitting a rock or whatever and that caused the issue to rise up? for those fish.. can i just do some food fed to them binded with focus? reef/invert safe?

i really appreciate your help btw! thank you!

 

[HotRocks]

alright the petsmart near me had the eythromycin stuff, dosed it.

these are all safe to use together yeah? would adding some epson salt do any good?

how do you guys keep track of all this stuff lol.

so if it's flukes.. what about all of the fish in my DT? do they all have it too? was the anthias living with it and i just fed enough to where it wasn't an issue, but then add the stress event of hitting a rock or whatever and that caused the issue to rise up? for those fish.. can i just do some food fed to them binded with focus? reef/invert safe?

i really appreciate your help btw! thank you!

No problem, glad to help. If it’s flukes then yes I would treat the DT as well if it were me. I would only do so if you see symptoms on other fish though. It is completely reef safe. The only thing it would have a negative effect on would be ornamental worms like feather dusters etc.

How to keep it all straight... I don’t know lol

 

[mattzang]

No problem, glad to help. If it’s flukes then yes I would treat the DT as well if it were me. I would only do so if you see symptoms on other fish though. It is completely reef safe. The only thing it would have a negative effect on would be ornamental worms like feather dusters etc.

How to keep it all straight... I don’t know lol

hmm yeah i really have never seen anything resembling the fluke issues. all the fish are little tubbers and no white long stringy poops. i've seen my flame angel have some stringy poops before, but apparently that's kind of common? and it's definitely not white. i did the skinless pea for him, which he didn't eat, but it comes and goes from time to time. that's why i didn't think this would be a disease issue, but not qting obviously leaves open possibilities

 

[mattzang]

update: she hasn't improved and now is laying on her side, looks like she's really barely hanging on. i was going to let it ride until the weekend after the 2nd round of prazi and finish the eythromycin treatment, but idk. hard to tell if a fish is suffering, but i'd think she certainly is

thinking i should order some clove oil..

 

[TaylorPilot]

I still keep 10’ between all tanks whether it’s a copper tank, observation tank, or a fishless coral QT.

I do still use the marine land HOB filters as well. I buy sponges in a large sheet and then just cut them to size to keep a surface area for bacteria to live upon. Also gives you some slight mechanical filtration as well if you cut them the same size as the factory inserts. I still use the factory inserts in observation tanks. If I decide to medicate an observation tank I just pull the factory filters while medicating. The only thing I ever use in an observation tank is praziquantel.

I looked on Marineland's site and I saw they have a new "pro" version of their normal HOB filters that we have all been using for decades. I couldn't find anything about it online so I contacted them. Apparently it is a new line that will be coming out in the next month.

He said :

"This is brand new but not shipping quite yet. We anticipate their being in the stores in time for the holidays.

There are substantial differences. The Pro version has a flow control now a decoupled motor and submerged motor. It has a media basket to allow for adding K2 media, bio foam prefilter, new shape."

It looks like they will still use the old poly filters, but you can ditch them and use their media baskets to put in whatever you want. A submerged impeller that I never have to prime again would be AWESOME!

 

[HotRocks]

I looked on Marineland's site and I saw they have a new "pro" version of their normal HOB filters that we have all been using for decades. I couldn't find anything about it online so I contacted them. Apparently it is a new line that will be coming out in the next month.

He said :

"This is brand new but not shipping quite yet. We anticipate their being in the stores in time for the holidays.

There are substantial differences. The Pro version has a flow control now a decoupled motor and submerged motor. It has a media basket to allow for adding K2 media, bio foam prefilter, new shape."

It looks like they will still use the old poly filters, but you can ditch them and use their media baskets to put in whatever you want. A submerged impeller that I never have to prime again would be AWESOME!

Very interesting thank you for the heads up!

 

[Kasey Grohowski]

@HotRocks Will stagnant water kill parasites?

 

[Kyle Bruin]

If I did this protocol backwards would it still work? I had been basically following humblefish of two weeks of gc or prazi then a month of copper. If I’ve done the water column prazi can I do two weeks of copper than transfer to a sterile tank for observation for one to two weeks? Reduce the copper exposure over the month of copper? Since I won’t have done any food soaked gc I could do that during those last two weeks of observation as well for good measure.

 

[MamaP]

You got it.

Theronts, tomites, dinospores, all one in the same.

Copper/CP work the same. They shield the fish from being reinfected.

So technically in 7 days a fish should be free of all ich/velvet trophonts.

@HotRocks and @Humblefish this question is mainly for you: I made the mistake of not QT'ing and brought Ich into my DT. Removed all fish and treating them in QT1 while my DT goes fallow. I dosed 2 rounds of GC 5-7 days apart into the water while I slowly brought my copper up to 2.0 (using Copper Safe and Hanna Checker). Planning to do Metro in food and water in QT2, just in case there's anything internal that they're not showing signs of. I'm on Day 9 of 2.0, but I still see spots on my Wrasse's tail and left fin. According to the quoted post, there shouldn't be any Ich left on the fish. Any idea why he could still have Ich at this point?

 

[HotRocks]

@HotRocks and @Humblefish this question is mainly for you: I made the mistake of not QT'ing and brought Ich into my DT. Removed all fish and treating them in QT1 while my DT goes fallow. I dosed 2 rounds of GC 5-7 days apart into the water while I slowly brought my copper up to 2.0 (using Copper Safe and Hanna Checker). Planning to do Metro in food and water in QT2, just in case there's anything internal that they're not showing signs of. I'm on Day 9 of 2.0, but I still see spots on my Wrasse's tail and left fin. According to the quoted post, there shouldn't be any Ich left on the fish. Any idea why he could still have Ich at this point?

The spots are not the actual parasite but rather the irritation left from the parasite attachment/entry. The actual parasite requires a microscope to see.

If you still have spots after a couple weeks it could also be something that is not treated by copper. I realize in this case you have already covered flukes with the prazi. Brook, uronema are a couple examples of things that could still be present during copper also lympho is a possibility as well. Lympho can happen during a copper treatment as it is a virus and copper is an immunosuppressant.

 

[MamaP]

The spots are not the actual parasite but rather the irritation left from the parasite attachment/entry. The actual parasite requires a microscope to see.

If you still have spots after a couple weeks it could also be something that is not treated by copper. I realize in this case you have already covered flukes with the prazi. Brook, uronema are a couple examples of things that could still be present during copper also lympho is a possibility as well. Lympho can happen during a copper treatment as it is a virus and copper is an immunosuppressant.

Thank you, @HotRocks . I didn't know that about the spots. This thread has been very helpful, as this is my first SW tank. Should I continue the Copper Safe for the remainder of the 14 days, then move to fresh QT2 and dose with Metro in food and water as planned, or do I need to do something different?

 

[iansu1075]

At this point I am watching very closely for external symptoms of bacterial infections. If one arises or a fish prone to infection stops eating then I dose Spectogram (Kanamycin+Nitrofurazone) and continue throughout copper. You can also use Kanaplex+furan-2. The WCs are fun maintaining the therapeutic Cu level. But once you have the hang of it, it's not bad. Copper has to be pre-dosed into new SW prior to adding to tank to keep Cu level from dropping below therapeutic.

when using copper power and kannaplex +furan 2. Since Furan 2 will change the tank water to yellow Tint. Will you still get an accurate reading on the Hanna checker?

thanks