My DIY LED build

  • Thread starter Thread starter H@rry
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Are you happy with the color you are getting from that mix of LED's?

For the most part I am. Some of them are a little different, still good but different. Some are a little better and some are a little worse. Some of the pinks are not coming through. I'll have to qualify that by saying that I've only been running them on the frag tank since August and I'm slowly ramping up the power. Maybe they will come through with more power.
 
Nice, H@rry. I am headed up that way soon. I'll see if we can get together while I'm there. I'd live to see the setup.
 
Harry - Nice work. I am also doing mine the only difference is that I will be using the LDD drivers. I have a few questions if you can be so kind.

1. How is the 3/4 handeling the heat? Did you install a fan?
2. What is wht WXLXH of your 180 and do you think you really needed the 45degree optics. I was planning on 60s and 80s
4. What are the dimensions of your frame and how far apart are the channels?
5. What did you use the screw the channel apart.

Thanks again like i said I am doing the exact same design for my 320.
 
harry - nice work. I am also doing mine the only difference is that i will be using the ldd drivers. I have a few questions if you can be so kind.

1. How is the 3/4 handeling the heat? Did you install a fan?

initially, i thought that i was using components for the drivers to run @ 1000 ma. Each string has 16 leds so i multiplied that times 3v and set the power supply on 48v. The u channel barely got warm so i was satisfied. A week ago i figured out how to put a multimeter in the string and measure the current and found it was only about 320 ma. I turned the power supply up to max 58v and the current went up to about 900 ma. The lights were noticeably brighter and the u channel was hot after a few minutes. I then turned it back down to 50v and now it gets pretty warm but i wouldn't say it's hot enough to be a problem. I don't have fans on the leds per se but i have the fans on each end of the hood blowing through it left from the metal halides. They don't actually blow on the leds but under the acrylic splash guard.

My plan now is to increase the voltage 1v per week until i burn something up or the corals begin to bleach and then back down a little. I'm hoping the bleaching occurs first.

2. What is wht wxlxh of your 180 and do you think you really needed the 45degree optics. I was planning on 60s and 80s

24 x 72 x 24. I bought 40* optics based on what i saw on one of the vendors web site. There are 6 red leds in the mix and i noticed 6 red spotlights on the coral. One of them actually was a little bit over the overflow and i went behind the tank and though i saw a fire in the plumbing until i realized that the red led was shining down the overflow and through the bottom glass onto the plumbing. I took the optics off the red leds and it looks a lot better. I'm not really satisfied that i'm getting enough light on the coral in the very back now. I plan to take the optics off one of the racks except for the very front row and run it like that for a while and see how that works.

3. ????

4. What are the dimensions of your frame and how far apart are the channels?


19 x 19". 2.75" apart.

5. What did you use the screw the channel apart.

self tapping screws for home depot

thanks again like i said i am doing the exact same design for my 320.

hth
 
Beautiful build, sir! I would suggest to swap out a few of the cool whites for either neutral or warm whites to add a bit more red into the array - otherwise your pink corals might not ever return to being pink.
 

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