My experience with curing BRS Pukani

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Hi all -

I am currently in the process of upgrading my 100 gallon reef to a 220 gallon, in which I will be using BRS Pukani rock, and I had the idea to document my progress in curing the Pukani here for others to reference. I hope that maybe my documentation will help someone else have peace of mind about the process of curing Pukani. I think this rock is absolutely gorgeous, but I understand that some have experienced problems with phosphates when using it. I have done extensive reading here and other places and compared processes that others have used to cure their Pukani, using acids, lanathum chloride, etc... I decided against using the muriatic acid method, purely based on the fact that it's destructive to the rock. I thought it would be worth trying a more "conservative" approach using lanathum chloride, so that's what I'm currently doing.

I ordered 75 lbs of Pukani on 7/4. My initial thought was to simply use the Pukani as "base rock", but when it arrived, I fell in love and ordered another 75 lbs on 7/17. It was absolutely gorgeous, and the folks at BRS went over and above to pick out super nice, large pieces with interesting features.

Since I'm posting this about two months after the initiation of my curing process, some details may be left out, but the general process I have used will remain intact.

I started out by cramming the first 75 lbs in a knock-off Brute trash can with RO/DI water and a couple of power heads for 48 hours... The smell that developed was quite malodorous! I'd definitely recommend doing this outside. After the soak, I laid the rock out on the driveway and meticulously blasted it with a water hose to remove the loosened sponges and other debris that I could see. Once I felt that I had removed as much visible debris as possible, the rock went back into RO/DI in the garbage can with water movement.

Enter my next 75 lbs - By this time I had done more reading, and decided that I would add bleach to the initial soak of this second 75 lbs. I went ahead and added a gallon of bleach to the first 75 lbs (in a trash can with RO/DI), and a gallon to this batch in a separate can. During this soak (after about 24 hours), my knock-off 32 gallon trash can sprung a leak, so I decided to do what I should have done in the first place and got a large, heavy duty plastic stock tank from Tractor Supply. Of note, when I added the bleach to the second batch, the awful smell that was present with the first batch wasn't noticed. I removed the second 75 lb batch of rock and sprayed it with the water hose much like I did with my first batch. I also rinsed the first batch of 75 lbs, and placed both in the stock tank with fresh RO/DI and a couple of powerheads.

The time line between the last step and next one I can't remember exactly - I believe it was about two weeks. After a period of time, I took the rock out (swished it around in the water before removing it) and drained the stock tank. The water was FILTHY. I replaced the rock, and filled the stock tank with freshly made saltwater. I let the rock soak in saltwater for a couple of weeks.

After a lengthy soak, I decided to do a 100% water change in the tank (again, I'm not sure on the timeline, possibly 3 weeks). I again swished the rock around before removing it, and cleaned out the tank. The water was again pretty muddy and nasty, but not as much as after the initial swish and water change. The rock smelled like you would expect clean rock to smell. No stench. I replaced the rock, and refilled the tank with freshly made saltwater.

By this time, MACNA rolled around, and while there I picked up a Hanna ULR phosphorus checker per the recommendation of another member who cured Pukani successfully. By the time of the first check, the rock had been soaking in saltwater for slightly more than a week. I had also procured some SeaKlear lanathum chloride to address the phosphate issues that I was certain I would have to battle. I had the idea that I would check phosphate, dose LC daily (every morning), and re-check phosphates every third day. Not sure why I chose this method - I am not in a hurry to do this, and want to make sure it's done right, so I assumed the "slowest is fastest" method, and decided to space out my tests.

First reading (9/3): 71. After applying the formula to convert phosphorus to phosphate, I got 0.21. Not too bad I thought. I began dosing 20 mL SeaKlear immediately after testing, and dosed 20 mL each day for the next two days for a total of 3 doses of LC. I retested again this morning, and got a reading of 21, which when converted, gives me a phosphate of 0.06. A significant reduction! I went ahead and dosed 20 mL of LC. To date, the process has been about two months.

That's where I am as of the time of this first post. I am debating my next move, and I'd love to have input from any of you guys who have done this before. I think I may NOT dose tomorrow or the next day, and see how the phosphate level reacts. My other option is to continue my current regimen and see if I can get the phosphates to drop even lower, to the point that they are easily managed with GFO. I'm also thinking about adding Prodibio to my rock tank to inoculate the rock with bacteria... Thoughts on this?

I hope to continue to document my progress here! Any input would be greatly appreciated! If anyone has questions, please ask! Forgive my rambling, and thanks for reading!
 
Fwiw,
I've done the muratic acid wash on two different batches and I love how it looks even more. Having said that, I have a pool & I'm used to dealing with MA, if I wasn't I'd have probably done vinegar.

I found that a couple 100% water changes in combination with the LC, washing the rock off in rodi between bins, seems to work the best. I'm about to transfer my current batch from the 40b it's been curing in to my reef. I'm taking it extra slow this time since I don't want to cause a big cycle when I swap the old Fiji rock out.
 
I've decided to go ahead and dose today and tomorrow, and check phosphates again on Saturday (9/9). I'll keep you guys posted!
 
I did close to the same for almost 2 mos. except dosing ounces of lc. Water changes and rinses as well. Pukani has been in my tank for 8 weeks md don't seem to have a po4 issue. I'll be testing with the phosphorus meet this weekend.
 
Did similar here, but cured it in freshwater rather than saltwater...but I planned to dry it out after the cure anyhow to play with the aquascape...saved me having to use saltwater! I cured mine for 6 weeks. Yes, that first week really smells badly! Then, I performed a complete water change every 3 days. I don't recall when I started testing, but at some point I started looking at phosphates with a Hanna checker. Don't recall my numbers, but they were rising! I used Phosguard in a mesh bag...changed this once a week and that completely controlled my phosphate issues. I have it in my tank now with saltwater and it's in the cycling process...so far, phosphate levels were starting to rise again...got to 0.22 the other day. So, I now have a small mesh bag of Phosguard in my sump...I'll test again in a few days and see how things are progressing! Pukani is beautiful...but definitely more work! I think the look is worth it, though.
 
Thanks for creating the thread. I'm about 3 days in with 40 lbs of rock soaking in salt water. Oddly no smell yet
I'm planning on getting some lanthanum chloride like you did. Was this the one you got?
SeaKlear 90207 Halo Source 1040105 Commercial Strength Phosphate Remover Quart Bottle Spa Accessories

Also, maybe someone can explain to me, what is the purpose of dosing lc? If the phosphate is leaching into the water, what does it do for me to precipitate it out during the cure?
 
Thanks for creating the thread. I'm about 3 days in with 40 lbs of rock soaking in salt water. Oddly no smell yet
I'm planning on getting some lanthanum chloride like you did. Was this the one you got?
SeaKlear 90207 Halo Source 1040105 Commercial Strength Phosphate Remover Quart Bottle Spa Accessories

Also, maybe someone can explain to me, what is the purpose of dosing lc? If the phosphate is leaching into the water, what does it do for me to precipitate it out during the cure?

You don't want the phosphate going back into the rock structure, or it will leach out later when you are cycling your tank or later... then algae problems!
 
I have been following along since the start. Why not just cycle/cure the rock and run a reactor to pull the phosphates from the water?

Just curious, this is an interesting discussion!
 
I soaked it in bleach. For a week then rinsed and sprayed and let dry several times on my back patio to clear that bleach out. It made a world of a difference it took about two weeks to cure. get the readings down and a nice film on the rock.

edit- I also started the cure with some bottled bacteria.
 
I have been following along since the start. Why not just cycle/cure the rock and run a reactor to pull the phosphates from the water?

Just curious, this is an interesting discussion!

You may be able to do that somewhat. I basically did similar except just used a small mesh bag with some phosguard in it... much more simple than running a reactor. But i don't recommend doing the cure and cycle at the same time with Pukani in your display tank. That first week of terrible putrid stinking, dirty colored water is not something thou want in your tank!
 
Thanks for creating the thread. I'm about 3 days in with 40 lbs of rock soaking in salt water. Oddly no smell yet
I'm planning on getting some lanthanum chloride like you did. Was this the one you got?
SeaKlear 90207 Halo Source 1040105 Commercial Strength Phosphate Remover Quart Bottle Spa Accessories

Also, maybe someone can explain to me, what is the purpose of dosing lc? If the phosphate is leaching into the water, what does it do for me to precipitate it out during the cure?

Yep, that's what I am using.

As for the reason I'm using it, from what I've read, the LC binds the phosphate in the water and precipitates it out. When it does so it creates a situation where more phosphate leaches out of the rock to achieve homeostasis with the environment around it (the water in which you are curing your rock), which is then bound up by your next dose of LC. As you repeat this process, more and more LC leaches out, and eventually you deplete the phosphate in the rock so that it's no longer leaching, or so that it's more easily managed using something like GFO.
 
I have been following along since the start. Why not just cycle/cure the rock and run a reactor to pull the phosphates from the water?

Just curious, this is an interesting discussion!

Using a reactor with GFO or other phosphate removal media would be much more expensive... The GFO would be depleted rather quickly due to the amount of phosphate this rock is releasing. Much easier and cheaper to do it this way until the amount of phosphate being released is down to a level that can be easily managed by the GFO, without depleting the GFO quickly! Thanks for following along, and thanks for the input!!
 
I soaked it in bleach. For a week then rinsed and sprayed and let dry several times on my back patio to clear that bleach out. It made a world of a difference it took about two weeks to cure. get the readings down and a nice film on the rock.

edit- I also started the cure with some bottled bacteria.

I think I am going to add a bacteria culture this weekend myself... Great idea. Is your rock in your display yet? If so, how long have you had it in the display? Any algae issues? What are your PO4 readings like? Thanks for the input!
 
I love the look... but this is exactly why I bought mined rock. My rock from Billy's reef needed a rinse, and that's about all.
 
You may be able to do that somewhat. I basically did similar except just used a small mesh bag with some phosguard in it... much more simple than running a reactor. But i don't recommend doing the cure and cycle at the same time with Pukani in your display tank. That first week of terrible putrid stinking, dirty colored water is not something thou want in your tank!

+1 on his recommendation to do it in another tank - The first few days in water were awful smelling, and the water was still muddy after the SECOND swish and water change. That was two swishes and 100% water changes with nasty stuff still coming off of the rock. A stock tank from a local Tractor Supply for large batches is the way to go! They aren't too expensive, and are really a good thing to have on stand by incase of a tank emergency. I think I paid about $75 for mine, maybe?
 
I think I am going to add a bacteria culture this weekend myself... Great idea. Is your rock in your display yet? If so, how long have you had it in the display? Any algae issues? What are your PO4 readings like? Thanks for the input!
So I cured in bleach for a week and that water was horid smelled terrible was murkey as all get out. And I didn't even do readings then after I rinsed it for awhile outside and started the bacteria cure what ever you want to call it all the readings have been normal for starting a cycle nitrates and phosphates have been artificially low because im using gfo to keep them down the rock was in a brute for 2 weeks and has been in my display for 3 I still haven't had any algea or diatoms but I'm going to attribute that to a lack of light while in the brute and gfo while in my display. I used one type of bottled bacteria to start the film then whem I started my display cycle I used a different type in two marine pure blocks in my sump. So I should have a plethora of bacteria... And haven't had any real issue yet. I'm at work so I can't give you exact numbers but they have always been on the low side of acceptable.
 
Regarding bacteria, I have used Prodibio on my current tank with excellent results, and I'll probably use it on this tank as well once I add the rock to my display. They offer a "start up" kit, but it's too small for my tank, so I'll probably just get some Biodigest to start, and Bioptim to follow up.

If you guys haven't looked into Prodibio, you should... My nitrates were out of control, and it dropped them to undetectable in two weeks. I feed heavily, and nitrates don't budge using the Prodibio regimen!
 
Today's reading: 35, which when converted translates into 0.10 phosphate. I have been dosing 20 mL daily, so not sure why I am seeing a rise in phosphate. Slightly discouraged that I didn't see a significant drop, as the rest of my system is coming together nicely and is essentially ready for sand and rock!! I think I'm going to do a 100% WC this weekend.

To recap my phosphate readings:
9/3 - 0.21
9/6 - 0.06
9/9 - 0.10

That's with me dosing 20 mL SeaKlear daily.

Does anyone have any input here? A couple of options I am considering after the 100% WC are:
1) Continuing with 20 mL LC doses daily, with measurements every three days, as I have been.
2) Stopping LC dosing and running GFO on the tank to see if I can achieve reduction of phosphate that way.

My through process is that if I can maintain low phosphate by solely using GFO, I'll put the rock in the tank and run GFO as I had planned in the first place!
 
Did a 100% WC today.... Swished each rock vigorously before I pulled it out, the drained and cleaned my tub before refilling it with rock and fresh saltwater.

This is before swish and WC:
378c42d65c8e7495c2b36de5b64f7eed.jpg


This is what was removed by swishing:
e1549acee52f89b4de788f3d21eb91d7.jpg


And back in the tank with new saltwater:
852a38f39555d62096a7e62b9c0864ad.jpg
 

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