My First Acro Not Doing Well

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To accomplish your goal, add. Mid sized pouch of chemipure elite which will keep both phosphate and nitrate levels in check

recommended targets are:
Temp 77-79
Salinity 1.025
Ph 8.2
Alk 8-9
Mag. 1300
Ca. 440
Nitrate. < .04
Phosphate. < .04
Ammonia. < .03
MODERATE LIGHT AND WATER FLOW

MAKE ANY ADJUSTMENTS GRADUALLY

What test kits are you using?
RODI water or tap water from faucet?
My biggest issues with hitting those targets seems to be getting the nitrate/phosphate levels right. I can’t get my phosphates any lower without my nitrates dropping to 0. Does chemipure also lower nitrates? And I’m using Neptune trident for ca, Alk, and Mag (double checking with Hannah for Alk and salifert for ca and mag) and salifert for phos and nitrates. Rodi 0tds
 
@SawCJack00, you know better than me. Trial and error is scientific in some regards so I'll check out that theory.

@ac4570 I'd get a different PO4 test kit, I couldnt decipher between anything with the Salifert. Got the Hanna ULR checker and would not go back from it.
 
@SawCJack00, you know better than me. Trial and error is scientific in some regards so I'll check out that theory.

@ac4570 I'd get a different PO4 test kit, I couldnt decipher between anything with the Salifert. Got the Hanna ULR checker and would not go back from it.
I’ve been looking into getting the Hannah for phosphates. I haven’t really had any issues reading my salifert, but it’s probably worth buying to have something to compare my results to.
 
That's pretty high, you want below .10 from what I have seen. Also, looks like hair algae growing on it making me think you arent getting good flow in that area.

I'm trying my first acro as well and I'm in a similar situation. RTN to the base though, the flesh facing the light seems healthy.
0.20 is not high
 
@SawCJack00, found the actual scientific write up and its just an observation as well "The Redfield Ratio"

 
For now I am going to work on getting my phosphates lower (while keeping my nitrates up).
I may also add a small power head (on a timer) blowing the opposite direction of my gyre toward the acro to give a more randomized flow pattern.
Any other recommendations or should I start there?
Also is there any chance of recovery for the acro or is it all downhill from here?
Thanks again everyone for the replies!
 
There is lots of good advice already in this thread. I'll comment on a few with my own opinions:

Flow - Acros like a lot of random flow. I run about 100x not including my return which works well in my tank.
Lighting - Your PAR looks good. I shoot for an average of 350-400 with higher light acros getting 450-500.
Nitrate/Phosphate Ratio - I follow this one as well. I generally try to keep 1:100 and mine run around 5-6 Nitrate with 0.05-0.06 Phosphate. Many people do well with Phosphate in the range you have, but as others have mentioned you'd want your Nitrates to match. It's not the high level, but the imbalance between the two that can be a problem.
Phos Tester - The only one I trust at levels that low is the Hanna ULR Phosphorus.
Alkalinity - I found when my tank was younger that acros did better closer to natural seawater level (7). I started shooting for 7-8 and haven't left that range since. It works well for me.
New Tank Syndrome - This one is very controversial, so hopefully I don't get flamed. :eek: The general rule IMO for acros to thrive in a tank is 12-18 months, increasing to 18-24 months when starting with dry rock. There is a whole theory on this surrounding the biome of bacteria and life in the tank and everything being in sync. Point of fact: I did not follow this and killed A LOT of acros the first year after I started this tank.

Again, I am not a biologist and these are my opinions based on my own reading and observations.

Good luck and keep asking questions!
 
My biggest issues with hitting those targets seems to be getting the nitrate/phosphate levels right. I can’t get my phosphates any lower without my nitrates dropping to 0.
There's always GFO or phosguard.

Use a very small amount and test frequently
 
@SawCJack00, found the actual scientific write up and its just an observation as well "The Redfield Ratio"

Yes the Redfield ratio is kind of where it all started but most SPS keepers don't shoot for a 16:1 ratio. That would equate to NO3-5 PO4 .3 that ratio makes your NO3 too low and your PO4 way too high.
 
Tunnel vision- no one mentioned the possibility of pests. A fish in the tank pecking at it. Had STN when he bought it. Could be many things and the pictures aren't that good(I can't get a good picture for the life of me neither.
 
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There is lots of good advice already in this thread. I'll comment on a few with my own opinions:

Flow - Acros like a lot of random flow. I run about 100x not including my return which works well in my tank.
Lighting - Your PAR looks good. I shoot for an average of 350-400 with higher light acros getting 450-500.
Nitrate/Phosphate Ratio - I follow this one as well. I generally try to keep 1:100 and mine run around 5-6 Nitrate with 0.05-0.06 Phosphate. Many people do well with Phosphate in the range you have, but as others have mentioned you'd want your Nitrates to match. It's not the high level, but the imbalance between the two that can be a problem.
Phos Tester - The only one I trust at levels that low is the Hanna ULR Phosphorus.
Alkalinity - I found when my tank was younger that acros did better closer to natural seawater level (7). I started shooting for 7-8 and haven't left that range since. It works well for me.
New Tank Syndrome - This one is very controversial, so hopefully I don't get flamed. :eek: The general rule IMO for acros to thrive in a tank is 12-18 months, increasing to 18-24 months when starting with dry rock. There is a whole theory on this surrounding the biome of bacteria and life in the tank and everything being in sync. Point of fact: I did not follow this and killed A LOT of acros the first year after I started this tank.

Again, I am not a biologist and these are my opinions based on my own reading and observations.

Good luck and keep asking questions!
Thanks for that! I agree my tank is probably a little young for it, but was given a very good deal and figured it would be worth a shot. Guess I may have been wrong:/
There's always GFO or phosguard.

Use a very small amount and test frequently
I’ve been afraid to use GFO do to the thought of overdoing it, but now I’m definitely thinking about putting a very small amount in my reactor.
Tunnel vision- no one mentioned the possibility of pests. A fish in the tank pecking at it. Had STN when he bought it. Could be many things and the pictures aren't that good(I can't get a good picture for the life of me neither).
I haven’t really thought about pests. I try to watch my tank from time to time at night, but could definitely be missing something. And yeah even with my clip on lenses it’s hard to get a good pic lol.
 
Echo small adjustments, All corals including Acros are adaptable but take time.
I have wondered if shading could be an issue, I’ve read that these puck style light can cause that. Especially since the light facing side seems to be doing better than the other.
 
Did you dip it(in coral dip) when you got it?
Yes, dipped in CoralRX. I bought all my coral from the same LFS and this one is the only coral having issues. He’s also had it for quite a while and looked really good in his tank. Anything is possible though or one of my fish could be nipping at it whenever I’m not watching.
 
Open to hearing facts rather than statements, what I have read so far says otherwise though. Clearly open to understanding the correlation and ratio involved in the two nutrients.
Well it is a fact that 0.20 is higher than 0.02 po4 but thats it in regards to facts about po4 and acropora. I haven’t read any peer reviewed studies that show 0.20 po4 will kill acropora like the OP. I have read studies that claim higher than 0.20 po4 can/maybe slow down calcification but there are also peer reviewed studies that show higher than 0.20 actually increase calcification. All of this is anecdotal. I can say I experienced a 90% acropora death rate trying to reduce my po4 to the recommended levels, and 98% survival rate since I stopped worrying about them.
 
I don't dip new coral(SPS) right away it's already stressed. It goes into QT first. I just plop and drop.

Mean while it looks from your pictures your best plan of action is to frag your Acro. Can see lots of tissue loss in your pictures. Cut above tissue loss area (only still living tissue on new frag). DO NOT dip the new frag you make(its already been dipped). You can make many frags out of it.
 

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