My first post + RODI Questions

[GlassJoe]

Hi everyone,

First off, I just wanted to introduce myself. I have been a longtime lurker in the hobby but finally have taken the plunge and am super excited to finally get started. I bought a tank from someone who was retiring and heading off to travel so he basically offloaded all of his equipment (which was very well taken care of) for a ridiculously reasonable price. Included in that was a four stage RODI system with TDS meter, pressure gauge, etc (see picture below - and yes I will be changing out the filters before I get started).

Basically I am trying to figure out if I should upgrade to a 5 or a 6 stage system and despite reading up a ton on this subject I am just a little stuck on what I should do. My water report is below and I am having a hard time understanding just how good or bad our water is. The TDS rate looks to be about the national average and we don't have any chloramines but that is about all my limited knowledge allows me to take from this report. If my water still is chloramine free (I will confirm with test strips) should I still upgrade to 5 or 6 stages or is 4 stages sufficient? I don't mind spending the extra money but I just want to be sure it is going to make a difference.

If I do upgrade, my next question is on how to do so, considering my current RODI system has a TDS meter. This is probably a dumb question but can I add both the stage before my current setup that way my TDS meter is still reading my final water product or should the fifth stage be added after everything? If I do add a stage, based on my water, what would you recommend I add? Another DI? An additional carbon? From what I read there seems to be a large benefit in the additional carbon (especially if the pore size is different) but I have also read about benefits of an additional DI resin. Would appreciate any insight you might have.

Very excited to be joining this hobby / community! Thank you.

P.s. Water report is on page two of the attached PDF

 

[aggrofish]

I wrote a reply but deleted. I see that you have a di stage. What’s the issue are you not getting zero TDS?

normal setup is sediment/carbon (1 or 2) membrane, DI. It doesn’t matter what your TDS is to start mine is like 440. By the time it gets through the membrane it’s around 14-15, after DI it’s zero. Don’t fix what’s not broke

 

[fdevans]

If you're just starting I’d say don’t solve a problem you don’t have yet. Get the filters and RODI resin changed and start making some water.

 

[GlassJoe]

I wrote a reply but deleted. I see that you have a di stage. What’s the issue are you not getting zero TDS?

I ran some water through it just to try it out and it the TDS reading was 1 which I felt was pretty solid considering the state of the sediment filter. I have just read so much about the importance of 5 or even 6 stage RODI I'm just not sure how good is good enough and wasn't sure if anything in my water report would sway the decision one way or the other.

 

[aggrofish]

I ran some water through it just to try it out and it the TDS reading was 1 which I felt was pretty solid considering the state of the sediment filter. I have just read so much about the importance of 5 or even 6 stage RODI I'm just not sure how good is good enough and wasn't sure if anything in my water report would sway the decision one way or the other.

No man you’re good to go. Do you Have color changing DI resin? Sometimes we try to solve problems that don’t exist.

 

[GlassJoe]

No man you’re good to go. Do you Have color changing DI resin? Sometimes we try to solve problems that don’t exist.

I'm definitely getting that sense. At the beginning it feels like you are drinking from a fire hose and when you start thinking about everything that can go wrong it's definitely easy to overthink it. Thanks for the help.

I'm not sure about the DI resin. I will look into that and get that figured out.

 

[TnFishwater98]

Hi everyone,

First off, I just wanted to introduce myself. I have been a longtime lurker in the hobby but finally have taken the plunge and am super excited to finally get started. I bought a tank from someone who was retiring and heading off to travel so he basically offloaded all of his equipment (which was very well taken care of) for a ridiculously reasonable price. Included in that was a four stage RODI system with TDS meter, pressure gauge, etc (see picture below - and yes I will be changing out the filters before I get started).

Basically I am trying to figure out if I should upgrade to a 5 or a 6 stage system and despite reading up a ton on this subject I am just a little stuck on what I should do. My water report is below and I am having a hard time understanding just how good or bad our water is. The TDS rate looks to be about the national average and we don't have any chloramines but that is about all my limited knowledge allows me to take from this report. If my water still is chloramine free (I will confirm with test strips) should I still upgrade to 5 or 6 stages or is 4 stages sufficient? I don't mind spending the extra money but I just want to be sure it is going to make a difference.

If I do upgrade, my next question is on how to do so, considering my current RODI system has a TDS meter. This is probably a dumb question but can I add both the stage before my current setup that way my TDS meter is still reading my final water product or should the fifth stage be added after everything? If I do add a stage, based on my water, what would you recommend I add? Another DI? An additional carbon? From what I read there seems to be a large benefit in the additional carbon (especially if the pore size is different) but I have also read about benefits of an additional DI resin. Would appreciate any insight you might have.

Very excited to be joining this hobby / community! Thank you.

P.s. Water report is on page two of the attached PDF

Welcome Da Reef!

 

[Shirak]

Looks like there is still a lot of life left in the color changing DI resin (left canister in the photo) I would leave that and get a new sediment and carbon block. Especially if there is chlorine in the water. You don't want chlorine getting through to your RO membrane.

 

[aggrofish]

I'm definitely getting that sense. At the beginning it feels like you are drinking from a fire hose and when you start thinking about everything that can go wrong it's definitely easy to overthink it. Thanks for the help.

I'm not sure about the DI resin. I will look into that and get that figured out.

Not all resin is color changing so you have no idea when it’s not working anymore. the Resintech stuff I use start blue and turns into an obvious brown as it gets used. Some colors I’ve used weren’t so obvious

 

[Shirak]

1 micron sediment filter and a 1 micron carbon block and you will be good to go. The sediment filter is looking a little dirty (right filter)

 

[LeftyReefer]

Not everyone needs a 5 or 6 stage filter. often times, just 4 stages is plenty.
I often get 0 TDS out of my RO membrane, 1 TDS at the most,... my DI stage doesn't have to do much most of the time.

 

[Shirak]

So just in case you are curious.. why run more stages? Some do run a couple carbons to help protect the membrane from chlorine better if that is a problem with their water. Some run a 2nd RO membrane to help produce more water or to have better efficiency and waste less. Some run additional DI canisters and there are several reasons why. First one to produce even more pure water than a single mixed bed canister can produce. Is it necessary? I dunno but it might be I guess. The other reason is to get better usage out of their DI resin and save money in the long run. Short answer.. with a single mixed bed you will be throwing away a little unused resin each time you change it.

 

[GlassJoe]

So just in case you are curious.. why run more stages? Some do run a couple carbons to help protect the membrane from chlorine better if that is a problem with their water. Some run a 2nd RO membrane to help produce more water or to have better efficiency and waste less. Some run additional DI canisters and there are several reasons why. First one to produce even more pure water than a single mixed bed canister can produce. Is it necessary? I dunno but it might be I guess. The other reason is to get better usage out of their DI resin and save money in the long run. Short answer.. with a single mixed bed you will be throwing away a little unused resin each time you change it.

Thank you for the helpful / detailed explanation - that makes sense.

 

[BrianAnthony]

Just one note about chloramine.... Public water systems may add them in the future or may only add them at certain times of the year. You wouldn't know. The sample report is a snapshot at the time of testing. I personally would buy an extra canister and carbon block thats made to remove chloramine and add that as another stage.

 

[BrianAnthony]

I read through your stuff again... I want to share this link with you.


If you get a TDS reading of anything, 1 or above. It's time to change the DI resin and not use the water. People often think they can go above that even... trying to get the max out of their filters. The video will explain that and more mistakes people make with RO/DI. I trust BRSTV btw... even though they sell the stuff... I've watched a ton of their videos and have taken their advice and have always had positive outcomes.

 

[BrianAnthony]

I read through your stuff again... I want to share this link with you.


If you get a TDS reading of anything, 1 or above. It's time to change the DI resin and not use the water. People often think they can go above that even... trying to get the max out of their filters. The video will explain that and more mistakes people make with RO/DI. I trust BRSTV btw... even though they sell the stuff... I've watched a ton of their videos and have taken their advice and have always had positive outcomes.

Just take your time... This is a hobby... You will be successful when you educate yourself. You will be an amateur Chemist, Marine Biologist and Aqua Artist. Enjoy the ride!