My first question....Phosphates

justplainnuts

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Ok, I am cycling a Biocube 29. it was started on 8 May. Seems to be going well. However I am a little paranoid about phosphate. When I attempted the reef keeping hobby back in 2006 I had a phosphate problem. However this time I am trying to avoid it. Taking my time and learning as I go. I was at a local fish store and purchased the API reef kit for $24. Checked my phosphates, it was hard to exactly determine, but it looks like they are on the 1.0 ppm color, definitely not 0.

So is this a concern I should have at this time and if so do I need a water change? I also am using a DIY media basket made from egg crate and someone warned me that some egg crate leaches phosphate like crazy. Could that be the issue?

other params thus far are:
ammonia : .25 ppm
nitrate: 60 ppm
PH: 8.0
nitrite: 0
Alkalinity: 7 dkh

Thanks for any advice you can offer.
 
Personally, I've never heard of egg crate leaching phosphate. Guess you could soak a small piece in a small quantity RODI, then test, but I'm not sure the API test will give accurate readings with fresh as opposed to salt water.

I would not do any water change until the tank has fully cycled; until the nitrites have peaked and dropped to zero. Then do a water change and begin to watch the phosphates. The number one contributor for high phosphates is feeding, then dead and decaying matter. In some instances old live rock, and even new dry rock, can leach phosphates. At this point in your cycle though, I would not worry about the levels you're seeing.

We'll see what the experts say,,,,,
 
I don't know about egg crates. But are you using ro di water? Also a lot of fish foods have phosphates.
 
The best thing now is to let it cycle. I wouldn't do any changes at the moment which could interrupt your cycle and make it take longer.
Ditch the API and grab an Eli's kit or Hanna checker. The API does not do a low range. Limit food input, use ro/di water and limit light to only 3-4 hrs it will help with algae blooms
 
Thanks for the info. I am using some old dry live rock that I got from a friend. Reseeding it with a piece of live rock. Also not feeding yet but could be old food from the rock.
 
...but could be old food from the rock.
Not the old food, but the rock itself. Often, people will "cook" old rock to clean it up and to try and address phosphates that are bound up in the rock itself. That's not an option now however, so just let it cycle. If the rock is leaching phosphates, it may passivate soon enough.
 
You can get rid of the phosphates in a cycling tank, just throw in some Brighwell Phosphate E, or use SeaKlear. That'll remove it.
 
Let it cycle. It isn't like there is anything in the tank that phosphate will hurt. On a 29 gallon, a couple of really large water changes would seem to me to be the easiest way to get nutrient levels down fast.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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