My First Reef Tank! 75 gal Build
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OP
OP
Scrappy RN
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Will do, they already sent me their number.
That is some real garbage registration on that printed card!
It's pretty normal for API ammonia test to not only cloud up, but go "chunky" - a bit like soured milk.
~Bruce, who works during the week in a print shop
It's pretty normal for API ammonia test to not only cloud up, but go "chunky" - a bit like soured milk.
~Bruce, who works during the week in a print shop
Brew12
Electrical Gru
I wouldn't worry about replacing the kit for 2 reasons. First, ammonia is really a go - no go test so accuracy isn't too important. Second, after you finish your cycle you won't use it again. I'd say it looks like 0.25ppm or so.
OP
OP
Scrappy RN
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Lol, I agree! I have a friend who works in printing and they agreed
And ok, I thought maybe it was the saltwater making the difference. But I'd really like to have a decent card. I may contact API and see if they'll send just another card.
Thanks!
OP
OP
Scrappy RN
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Good to know. I was just worried that the cloudiness was an indication that it wasn't correct and I didn't want to add fish/inverts in if it was showing zero NH3 later and I really had ammonia in there!
And I agree, with my freshwater tanks I rarely check NH3 anymore because it is zero every single time. I still spot check about every 3 months or if something were to appear wrong--but that hasn't happened yet. I tend to run my tanks light so that the water quality is better. One of my freshwater tanks hasn't needed a true water change in over a year because the plants and fish in it have a great balance. My nitrates haven't been over 5ppm since that tank cycled.
Brew12
Electrical Gru
Once a marine tank with live rock matures it is almost impossible to get an ammonia spike. I've never had a FW tank but my understanding is that they rely on the external filters or plants for ammonia control. I have seen some amazing reef tanks that only use heaters and powerheads. No outside filtration at all. It just isn't needed.
Fin
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You may find out that over time you will end up with a mix of test kits from different manufacturers. Not uncommon for reefers to develop favorite tests for each parameter that they check. Some will find the Hanna meters easier to use, some may find only some of them easy to use and use titration kits for other parameters. Some may prefer Red Sea for some tests and Salifert, etc. for others. Really a personal preference, but you don't have to limit yourself to buying all test kits from the same manufacturer.
Brew12
Electrical Gru
So much truth. I currently am using a mix of API, Salifert, Red Sea, and Hanna. Still trying to figure out which ones I like the best.
The kits that have you match the color results to a card are really a challenge. Not everyone sees colors the same way so it is important to find a kit where the colors work for you. The titration kits are a little less open to interpretation and variation. For these it is more ease of use.
OP
OP
Scrappy RN
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Thanks guys!
I have always had trouble worth those color charts- even the ones that the print isn't messed up on. I looked at the digital meters they sell on Amazon that test salinity, pH, etc. but I was afraid they wouldn't work well. Have any of you used one or know if they are decent to use?
I have always had trouble worth those color charts- even the ones that the print isn't messed up on. I looked at the digital meters they sell on Amazon that test salinity, pH, etc. but I was afraid they wouldn't work well. Have any of you used one or know if they are decent to use?
Brew12
Electrical Gru
I use the Hannah ultra low range phosphorus checker which is digital. Honestly? I feel it is a pain to use. I use a refractometer for salinity but conductivity meters are easy to use and work great. I also use an Apex probe for continuous pH readings but the independent pH probes also work well. That said, I think many new reefers would be best off not even testing for pH. Is pH important? Yes. However most tanks will stay in a safe pH range naturally. You can get in a lot of trouble quickly if you start trying to adjust pH. umm.. not that I would know from experience
;Eggonface
OP
OP
Scrappy RN
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Ok, I had thought about a continuous pH probe. I'm not one to use chemicals to improve parameters much. I found in FW tanks that people who use chemicals all the timer instead of learning how to keep the water quality good to begin with had more trouble than just letting the tank correct itself slowly with good maintenance.
I did get a refractometer at a really good price locally so I'm good there. I just hate the color charts, lol! So that's why I thought about the digital handheld meters.
I did get a refractometer at a really good price locally so I'm good there. I just hate the color charts, lol! So that's why I thought about the digital handheld meters.
Brew12
Electrical Gru
Fortunately, Alk, Calc and Mag use titrations and not color charts. The only testing I still do that uses a color chart is for nitrates. Not a fan of the API one so I am trying out the Red Sea test kit. I like it better so far.
OP
OP
Scrappy RN
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I'll try that one next for sure!
Justin Hartmann
Active Member
Its been said but yes that is totally normal for it to cloud and get chunky after even the first drop is added. I have switched to the red sea test kits and I like it a lot better. The test tubes and just overall use is a lot better IMO. They are a bit more expensive though (some just up front, then you can get reagent kits, not the whole thing). I know a lot of people love the hanna checkers (I have been thinking a lot about it and might get one soon for phosphates) but they are like 50 bucks up front and I just haven't been able to justify it yet. I could be wrong in this but I think they (at least the ones I am looking to get) still have to have reagent added to the vial. When I did the math I believe that in the long run they are more expensive to keep going (up front cost and reagent costs per test). I could be wrong in that though, so please correct me if I am as that would be great to know. I will say its not a huge difference in cost though. Plus I don't mind the extra time and work it takes to test with kits, that whole I need to feel involved in my tank haha. I enjoy working with the tank. I do agree the color matching is difficult and sometimes make me want the digital read out. At any rate thats my $0.02
Brew12
Electrical Gru
The hanna checkers do take reagents and only come with enough for a few tests. What makes them a pain in my eyes is the care you need to take. You have to make sure the vials are absolutely clean, inside and out. You have to make sure you get all the reagent out of the pouch. You need to be careful not to leave a fingerprint on the vial. Otherwise, your test won't be accurate. I will say that if you do it perfectly, nothing short of lab grade test beat the results.
Justin Hartmann
Active Member
That is good to know, thanks! I will probably get one for phosphate as that test has been frustrating me with trying to get colors matched up, it just doesn't seem even close. Might be worth it just to see how I like it. At any rate back to the regular scheduled thread. Did not mean to take it there.
