My ICP Test results. Should I change anything?

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I sent away for an ICP test for both my tank water and my RODI water. Test were performed by ATI.

Before I show the results I'll give info on my tank, then the reason I spent $50 for the test

Tank: 65 gal mixed reef
25 gallon sump

Lights: 2 AI Hydra 26
1 36" T5 w/Coral Plus bulb

Sump set up and Equipment :

Reef Octopus 150SS skimmer (probably a bit oversized for my tank) running 24/7
Tunze ATO
Two BRS Dosing pumps for CA/ALK dosing
I do not run filter socks. One of my sock holders is left open, the other I use a small amount of filter floss. I have a small amount of carbon in a bag.
Fuge grows Chaeto algae like crazy

I have been dosing Red Sea N0PoX daily and Red Sea reef colors as well. This was to control algae problem in DT.

I have six fish that are feed twice daily with auto feeder. I also broadcast feed Reef Chili at least twice per week.

The problem I am trying to solve is poor coral coloration. I also have a hard time with a lot of my soft corals such as Acans, Torches, etc. They always seemed ticked, and usually die. My SPS do well as far as growth, but the colors will fade after introduction to the DT.

I do weekly water changes (10%) with Red Sea Blue bucket

Here are my results:


AnalyseTankWater1.jpg
AnalyseTankWater2..jpg
 
I sent away for an ICP test for both my tank water and my RODI water. Test were performed by ATI.

Before I show the results I'll give info on my tank, then the reason I spent $50 for the test

Tank: 65 gal mixed reef
25 gallon sump

Lights: 2 AI Hydra 26
1 36" T5 w/Coral Plus bulb

Sump set up and Equipment :

Reef Octopus 150SS skimmer (probably a bit oversized for my tank) running 24/7
Tunze ATO
Two BRS Dosing pumps for CA/ALK dosing
I do not run filter socks. One of my sock holders is left open, the other I use a small amount of filter floss. I have a small amount of carbon in a bag.
Fuge grows Chaeto algae like crazy

I have been dosing Red Sea N0PoX daily and Red Sea reef colors as well. This was to control algae problem in DT.

I have six fish that are feed twice daily with auto feeder. I also broadcast feed Reef Chili at least twice per week.

The problem I am trying to solve is poor coral coloration. I also have a hard time with a lot of my soft corals such as Acans, Torches, etc. They always seemed ******, and usually die. My SPS do well as far as growth, but the colors will fade after introduction to the DT.

I do weekly water changes (10%) with Red Sea Blue bucket

Here are my results:


AnalyseTankWater1.jpg
AnalyseTankWater2..jpg
Thanks for sharing. I’m doing one soon. Biting my nails. I guess iodine stands out as being weak. One of those elements that rarely anyone tests for and doses. Wonder if that has anything to do with growth.
 
The only thing I would be addressing is the Salinity is too low. I try to stay at a range of 34.5 - 35
 
I’m using Red Sea Coral Pro (black bucket) and they recommend 34 salinity for a mixed reef. What does the Blue Bucket recommend?
 
They give you a list of suggestions with the report. The only thing I see in the pics is low salinity. PSU is practically the same as ppt, which 31.27 puts you around 1.0235 SG. My tests come back pretty accurate to what I measure so I wouldn't expect there to be salinity loss during transit.
 
I use this article by Randy for my parameters. http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.htm Not trying to be difficult but I use the Red Sea Coral Pro salt and have been successful with my Acans, Torches and mushrooms and even my NPS Gorgonian. I have found that using the recommendations by Randy in the noted article - that is what I use as my guide for what my parameters should be and also what is the right elements to chase/or not. I find that when my salinity is too low my coral look agitated and I get the start of receding of tissue. Since the early days of this tank, I now use my APEX to track my salinity and weekly do a refractometer sanity check.
 
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I just ordered same calibration fluid for my refractometer. I always mix at 1.025.

I’m wondering if the low nitrates might be part of the coloring problem. I know you can dose nitrates, but I think I’m going to start by not running my skimmer 24/7. See if that will bump the nitrates up.
 
I just ordered same calibration fluid for my refractometer. I always mix at 1.025.

I’m wondering if the low nitrates might be part of the coloring problem. I know you can dose nitrates, but I think I’m going to start by not running my skimmer 24/7. See if that will bump the nitrates up.
 

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