My new trigger ruby 20c sump build thread

[lbacha]

So I know most people post build threads or their aquarium and I have one of those for my 8g nano tank but I decided to start a build thread for my new sump. When I started my nano tank a couple months ago I knew i wanted the biggest sump possible and I wanted to build it to eventually handle a 24" cube or something similar with a 24" footprint. My goal was to be able to swap out the nano with the bigger tank since the nano sits on a 24" x 24" steel end table without needing to change up the sump and filtration. To get the nano started I used a 10g tank with a baffle kit and it has worked great while I have accumulated the gear for its eventual replacement.

Current setup

The replacement sump

So some details about the sump

It was built to the Trigger Ruby 20c specs but it was a limited run of 5 made in blue acrylic like the sapphire series. I like the ruby because the fuge is 1.5" deeper than the sapphire which is the same as the emerald series. The dimensions are 20" x 20" x 15" tall. The fuge is the whole front of the sump and is 19.5" x 7.5" with a water level of 9.5" so around 6g. I'm a huge fan of the construction and looks.

I plan on posting details of the build in following posts so stay tuned and please give any feedback you can.

 

[lbacha]

So the planned build

Sump: trigger ruby 20c
Skimmer: Reef Octopus 110sss
Filter sock: not going to run a sock at this point but there is a holder for one
Fuge: mix of cheato, live rock and Xenia (it is going to be a display fuge)
Fuge lighting: Kessil h80 directly over the cheato. I still need to determine what I will light the Xenia with, I may go with something that allows me to grow frags on one side of the fuge.
Return: cor 15 (waiting for it to arrive)
ATO: Tunze osmolator
ATO reservoir: I have a trigger 5g crystal and a 10g crystal so I need to figure out which one I want to use.
Manifold: 1" manifold with 4 x 3/4" true union ball valves (1 will be the return line and the others are for future use)
Media: the overflow from the fuge to the return will hold carbon.
Control: I have a new neptune running everything
Monitors: flow monitors on the manifold and on the ato (since the ato is a Tunze the monitor will let me see when it is running and act as a secondary control). Leak detector under the manifold. Water level sensor in the ato reservoir.

 

[Blue Spot Octopus]

So how configure your sump, the fuge in front, skimmer in front, or sideways? Since it is a cube I guess you have a few choices.

 

[lbacha]

So how configure your sump, the fuge in front, skimmer in front, or sideways? Since it is a cube I guess you have a few choices.

The layout is Like this

Skimmer will be in the first section

The second section is the fuge

There is a foam block and an area for media between the fuge and third section

Return pump is in the last section.


There is actually a lot of extra room in the first section even with the 110sss skimmer so I may grow cheato there

 

[lbacha]

Due to lack of space above the sump (my stand is only 24" tall) I decided to build the manifold off the side. I also did this because the sump will be out in the open and I wanted to show off my piping.

Lots of unions due to the true union valves

Some construction pics

 

[lbacha]

I plan on plumbing a 1" flow sensor into the manifold between the pump and the valves. The manifold will end in a 1" barb. I will plumb a 1" barb onto the cor 15 using the 1.25" union tht comes with it. This way I can use a short price of 1" silicone tubing between the pump and manifold to reduce vibration noice and make it easier to align the pump in the sump.

My tank return is 1/2" due to the size of the current tank (8g nano). I went with 3/4" ball valves for two reasons: 1. Ability to upgrade to multiple 3/4" returns 2. They were the only size that came with blue handles (looks matter)

I plan on adding a 1/2" flow sensor on the return so I can use it to control the amount of flow going through the DT and sump. By having a flow sensor before the ball valves and then one at the return I should be able to calculate how much flow is going through my reactors without needing extra flow sensors.

 

[lbacha]

Question for people. Any recommendations on a fuge light I want a full spectrum (not a cheato light) since it is more of a display fuge. A single puck style led won't do it since it's 20" wide so I either need 2 pucks or something like a black box. Not sure what way to go

 

[lbacha]

So my cor15 came in and I went with a current orbit 18" led for the fuge. We will see if it is enough light. Here are some pics

Testing the manifold and pump

 

[Mark Gray]

Looks Good can't wait to test mine

 

[lbacha]

Looks Good can't wait to test mine

It's great to have it pumping water, it's crazy quiet I have it in a 5g bucket with the return line back into the water and you can't hear it running even at 100%. I tested the manifold and the true union ball valves regulate flow really well.

 

[ScottB]

Hey, hoping this project went well for you. Not sure I ever fully understood what all you were connecting to that manifold, but the plumbing is gorgeous work. Your going to be ready for a bigger DT!

Just ordered a sapphire 20 c for my frag tank after googling around a bit. Just curious about your experience with Trigger and also the Orbit for your fuge.

 

[ReeferReefer]

It's great to have it pumping water, it's crazy quiet I have it in a 5g bucket with the return line back into the water and you can't hear it running even at 100%. I tested the manifold and the true union ball valves regulate flow really well.

Any updates?

 

[OPhelanK]

I’m here for an update. How did the orbit work out for you?

 

[Blue Spot Octopus]

Have you hooked up the Corr 15 to the tank yet? Can it run 100% without a Apex? do you have to program it if you want to run it at 50%? Thanks