My powder brown has spots

[Sashaka]

Got to get those copper meds going and up to treatment level. Hannah checkers are good. You have to be in the 1.75 ppm to 2.0 ppm range I believe for it to be at a therapeutic level. Someone can correct me if I may be wrong.

You are correct. According to @4FordFamily, "UPDATE: We have discovered at least one strain of velvet that survives 1.75 PPM copper, we recommend increasing to 2.0PPM to eradicate it." He was referring to dosage for Copper Power. Just to be on the safe side, I'd get Copper Power as many of us here trust this copper brand because it doses consistently in strength as per directions on the bottle. Not all copper products seem to do that. I like to ramp up the copper to medicinal levels over a few days. I watch my fish to see how they're handling it and go more quickly or slow down based on their behaviors.

Treat fish in a separate tank. Copper cannot be removed from rock and sand well and it will kill your biological filter and any corals and/or inverts you have in the tank.

I'd also pick up an ammonia badge to monitor ammonia levels during treatment (other types of test kits give false readings due to the copper in the water). Your sick tank will need a heater and HOB filter. Do not add absorbing materials in the HOB filter chambers, just floss to catch fish wastes. You could add some Marine Pure blocks, especially if you have them in the MD already as they will help jump start the cycle. You could pick up some instant cycle in a bottle to help start a cycle as well, which will help reduce the number of water changes needed during treatment.

Of course, you'll need to monitor ammonia, copper, and PH levels closely everyday. Don't add sand or other decorations to the tank. They can absorb copper and can release it later at lethal levels if the PH suddenly drops. Just add some PVC pipe pieces for the fish to find shelter in when needed.

Finally, you'll want a reliable copper test kit to monitor levels of copper in the tank. They must remain constant throughout the whole 30 day treatment. If they drop below 1.76, you'll need to start the clock over. I like the Hanna high range copper checker. API test kits are not very accurate, IMO, because the color range on the test kit is difficult to gauge. An air stone helps as well during treatment to keep the water well oxygenated.

I know the above must sound overwhelming if you've never done a copper treatment before, but it is doable. We're here to help if you have any questions! Good luck. I think the hardest part is catching all the fish! When I had to do this for the fish in my 180 gal tank, I gave up and just took out all the rock so I could catch them more easily.

 

[Softpaws]

I'm dealing with ick on my 150G reef.

My tank is now fallow.

I lost three fish in my QT and my other 6 are doing very well.

If you see the spots your entire tank has it.

You can either go fallow or "manage" it.

If your reef isn't all that put together I highly recommend going fallow. It's worth the effort.

.Also, I'm dosing with Cupramine.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Appears to be velvet. Start with freshwater dip. Thereafter if continues, methylene or copper treatment in separate tank. Reef safe option is PraziPro which may work.
How is fishs’ diet and breathing?
I would keep display tank fish free for 7-8 weeks to allow hosts and their eggs to die off prior to re-stocking

 

[ngoodermuth]

As others have stated, all fish in your display should be treated and the display will need to be left fallow (fishless) for 76 days, to eradicate the parasite.

Ich can possibly be managed (most likely not for that particular tang however) but as long as there are fish to continue the life cycle it won’t “go away” all on it’s own.

Some fish can develop a tolerance, and you might see a reduction in the cycles of spots over time...but the parasites will still be there. The spots themselves are not the parasites, but rather a reaction to bite/insertion sites.

Treatment should be administered in a QT. There are several treatment methods, copper, chloroquine phosphate, tank transfer method, and hypo-salinity. Some strains have been known to be resistant to hypo-salinity, and it can be fairly stressful to the fish. Some people swear by TTM, but I’ve personally found it stressful for ME, and my fish...

In my opinion, unless you have a copper-sensitive species; copper will be your best bet. There are two kinds, ionic (like Cupramine) and chelated (Copper Power). The kind you choose is important, because they have different therapeutic levels and some test kits do not work for both interchangeably.

You’ll need an ammonia alert badge, ammonia test kits don’t work with copper in the water. Managing ammonia in QT will be just as important and treating the parasites. Biospira and Dr. Tim’s (and other bacteria in a bottle products) are quite helpful here. And water changes as needed (dose the copper to the new water BEFORE it goes into the tank)

Do NOT use Prime or other ammonia neutralizing chemicals with copper because it reacts poorly causing the copper to be 10x more toxic and will kill all of your fish [emoji31]

Copper should be maintained at therapeutic for at least 30 DAYS (if using a single QT, 14 if you have a second, sterile QT to transfer them into) After treatment is completed, can observe med-free for the remainder of your fallow period.

Good luck, I’ve been in your shoes - it’s a process. But, worth it to be ich-free in the end!

 

[RayKeeper503]

Thank you all so much. I’m going to be adding all the fish to the QT for the recommended 76 days. Just have a few more questions.

All fish have to come out... but what about starfish, snails and coral?

What’s the best medication to really kick this ichs butt?

Will my anemones be okay without their tenants? My pair love all 4 of them and I only manually feed them maybe twice a month.

Should I be adding anything in the main tank while it’s fallow?

I’ll be starting the process tonight once all my questions are answered. This is very upsetting... I never had a problem in the 2 years the tanks been running... one mistake and BAM everything needs to come out

 

[vetteguy53081]

Thank you all so much. I’m going to be adding all the fish to the QT for the recommended 76 days. Just have a few more questions.

All fish have to come out... but what about starfish, snails and coral?

What’s the best medication to really kick this ichs butt?

Will my anemones be okay without their tenants? My pair love all 4 of them and I only manually feed them maybe twice a month.

Should I be adding anything in the main tank while it’s fallow?

I’ll be starting the process tonight once all my questions are answered. This is very upsetting... I never had a problem in the 2 years the tanks been running... one mistake and BAM everything needs to come out

Inverts generally not affected and can remain in display so that you are able to enjoy some life and further more- none of them can survive medication or copper

 

[RayKeeper503]

Inverts generally not affected and can remain in display so that you are able to enjoy some life and further more- none of them can survive medication or copper

Inverts cannot survive medication or copper? Did I read that correct?

 

[ngoodermuth]

Corals/Inverts can NOT survive most medications, especially copper. Fish parasites can not use them to host though, so they are just fine to stay in the display tank while it is fallow. Nems are fine without clowns as well.

Feed just enough to keep your CUC happy, and watch nitrates. If they become “undetectable” (or your corals starts to become pale) you can dose to keep them just readable.

Copper or Chloroquine Phosphate are the most (and only) effective ich medications currently available, IMO.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Copper is a Heavy metal, and is even harmful to humans, its just that we have more tolerance for it. Copper alters the normal function of some essential enzymes in their system, damaging cells and disrupting osmoregulation which ultimately kills the organism.

 

[RayKeeper503]

Corals/Inverts can NOT survive most medications, especially copper. Fish parasites can not use them to host though, so they are just fine to stay in the display tank while it is fallow. Nems are fine without clowns as well.

Feed just enough to keep your CUC happy, and watch nitrates. If they become “undetectable” (or your corals starts to become pale) you can dose to keep them just readable.

Copper or Chloroquine Phosphate are the most (and only) effective ich medications currently available, IMO.

Okay great. So I’m gonna set up a new QT... do I need to set it up like DT with skimmer and sump? Or can I just get some hanging filters and a heater ?

 

[ngoodermuth]

Okay great. So I’m gonna set up a new QT... do I need to set it up like DT with skimmer and sump? Or can I just get some hanging filters and a heater ?

Hang on back filter, small powerhead, heater, ammonia alert badge, thermometer, screen top to prevent jumpers, and PVC elbows for hiding spots.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/how-to-quarantine.189815/

 

[artieg1]

Definitely read one of the threads here on fallow period and ich eradication. Also, doing nothing is an option. It is really your call. But only do the fallow period if you are willing to QT every future fish and treat for ich and velvet (CP, copper or hypo). The issue is the parasite and your tank, not this tang. The tang is the result. The parasite is in your tank. Fallow period wipes it out. Not worth doing it if you are going to plop new fish into the tank in the future. That defeats the whole purpose.