My RSM 130D Build

gammarho55

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Hey everybody! I'm new to the community... been a lurker for a while, but finally decided to buck up and get my first saltwater tank. Been doing a planted tank for a while, just couldn't commit to the cost until now. Just got it set up yesterday,so let me know what you think about the equipment list and let me know if you all think I'm missing something. I'd eventually like to switch out the T5 lights and move to LEDs, so if you all have ideas on how to do that, I'd appreciate it. I've seen the Radions (which are above my pay grade) and Steve's retrofit lights.
Thanks for looking and can't wait to hearing what you all think.

Red Sea Max 130D:
Tunze 9001 Protein Skimmer
Icecap 3K Gyre Flow Pump
Icecap ATO
Eheim Heater (not sure the model)
InTank Media Basket
Seachem Phosguard
Seachem Matrix Carbon
Seachem Purigen
AquaVitro Seed Bacteria
Caribsea Fiji pink (20#)
30# Live Rock

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Was just looking through you thread lol.... wishing I would have done a tank without the lid. might eventually remove mine and go with a kessil etc.

Yeah, the rimless tanks look great. I have 1 other reef tank where I don't have the glass lid on and another that has to be tightly covered to make sure my snowflake eel doesn't escape. I still have to buy the rest of the equipment for the 170 over the next month while the tank is cycling. Probably going to go with the AI Hydra 26 HD to light the tank.
 
What a difference a couple of days makes. Things have cleared up nicely. I had a bare spot in the front-right corner of the tank the morning after I put the gyre pump in. I was only running it at 10%, so even though I was determined not to put my hands in the tank I had to redirect the flow more towards the surface, which has seemed to help. I see a bit of sand moving, just not being displaced. I figure it'll be better when I actually get things in the tank.
I got my live rock from an LFS, but noticed they didn't do much in the way of cleaning it off. There were a few hermit crabs with the rock and I'm starting to notice things growing on it and I'm not sure if I should be worried about. I'm not sure what the thing in the 2nd pic is, but it is definitely loving the gyre's flow. How much of this stuff should I be worried about removing before it harms the tank? Don't want stuff in there that's harmful.
Any help you all could provide would be awesome.

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I've had success using boiling water and a syringe to get rid of one in the past. Just put some RO water in the microwave until it comes to a boil and then use a syringe to squirt it into the center of the aiptasia. You may have to do this a few times to finally get rid of it.
 
I'm assuming I need to pull the rock out to do this. it's on an rock by itself and not the main structure.
 
No, you would leave it in the tank. If it's on a separate piece of rock you could just remove that piece and manually remove it as well.
I was just told by my LFS that they have peppermint shrimp that they've trained to eat aiptasia, and since the rocks came from him, they'll be giving them to me for free. Guess i'll wait to see if they do the job :(
 
Had to remove the Icecap Gyre Pump... it was producing wayyyy too much flow for the tank. I was only running it at a steady 10% but it was consistently producing sand movement and created a bare spot. I switched it out for a Current Eflux 660. Got it set at 60-70% steady stream and is working out nicely. I just wish it had more control over the pulse/surge modes... It goes 0%-60%, rather than 30%-60% and there's no way to change the lower percentage. Oh well.
Also, I added my first couple of coral- some GSP and small torch. Just wanted somehting in the tank to show off the flow. But the second I put them in, I realized just how lacking the stock 130D T5 lighting is. Now I just have to decide if I want to take the top off and add a screen with light/mount, or try a retrofit kit. I've seen people use the Radions as replacements for the T5 but I think those are out of my price range lol.

Let me know what you all think. Thanks.

 
No, you would leave it in the tank. If it's on a separate piece of rock you could just remove that piece and manually remove it as well.

Had to remove the Icecap Gyre Pump... it was producing wayyyy too much flow for the tank. I was only running it at a steady 10% but it was consistently producing sand movement and created a bare spot. I switched it out for a Current Eflux 660. Got it set at 60-70% steady stream and is working out nicely. I just wish it had more control over the pulse/surge modes... It goes 0%-60%, rather than 30%-60% and there's no way to change the lower percentage. Oh well.
Also, I added my first couple of coral- some GSP and small torch. Just wanted somehting in the tank to show off the flow. But the second I put them in, I realized just how lacking the stock 130D T5 lighting is. Now I just have to decide if I want to take the top off and add a screen with light/mount, or try a retrofit kit. I've seen people use the Radions as replacements for the T5 but I think those are out of my price range lol.

Let me know what you all think. Thanks.

Looks good. How did the peppermint shrimp do with the aiptasia?
They did awesome! I put them in at 8pm and by the next morning, it was gone lol. They devoured it and was kind of cool to watch.
 
Why is the stock lighting lacking? Did your lfs tell you that?
Just my own observation. There's not enough blue to make the coral's color pop. It looks good enough as is, but how many of us are ok with "good enough" right lol?
 
Just my own observation. There's not enough blue to make the coral's color pop. It looks good enough as is, but how many of us are ok with "good enough" right lol?

I ask because I have the same tank. And I did eventually add a verstix royal blue bar for that pop (mod I will be posting soon). The stock lighting ranges from 290-70 PAR from top to bottom ( with a hazy lense and half spent bulbs) which is really good for stock.

If you plan to have the tank for a while, I suggest you get the lighting you want now. That helps your Corals not have to go through an adjustment once stocked and saves from buying new bulbs every 9 months. If you have the tank 7 years (mine is going on 7 years) that's $500 in bulbs, the cost of most any led. Or just add some blue leds and grow anything anyway!

I can't wait to see your tank progress, I love mine. Photos show before my recent rock change

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I ask because I have the same tank. And I did eventually add a verstix royal blue bar for that pop (mod I will be posting soon). The stock lighting ranges from 290-70 PAR from top to bottom ( with a hazy lense and half spent bulbs) which is really good for stock.

If you plan to have the tank for a while, I suggest you get the lighting you want now. That helps your Corals not have to go through an adjustment once stocked and saves from buying new bulbs every 9 months. If you have the tank 7 years (mine is going on 7 years) that's $500 in bulbs, the cost of most any led. Or just add some blue leds and grow anything anyway!

I can't wait to see your tank progress, I love mine. Photos show before my recent rock change

IMG_5839.JPG


IMG_3874.JPG
Yep, that's the look I want. The blues and greens really pop. I've been debating adding a reefbrite actinic blue lumilite strip to go with the stick lighting, but you're right... the cost of replacing the stock lights plus the extra strip light would be about the same. Just need to pull the trigger.
And nice tank, btw. Hope to get there eventually.
 
Make sure to post up if you make the switch! Honestly the strips will do the job, I do love the look, led and t5. But if I could go back 7 years, I would have an ecotech in there for controllability and all the bells. You have the gear and the tank, I'm sure it will look amazing in no time. If you need any tips pm me.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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