My SPS are dying. Burnt Tips. Please Help.

[Reefn'Sven]

I have pretty much this exactly situation occurring. SPS frags do great for a week to 10 days and then start bleaching at the tips. The tips get some algae growth and sometimes the flesh just seems to melt away over night. Some frags do totally fine and do not seem to be impacted. Others have base recession. All parameters are stable and PAR matches what WWC keeps their frags under (since the frags are coming from WWC I know that’s not the problem)

Are you still experiencing this issue? If not, what steps did you take to get over it?

 

[Mirkus]

Bump, similar issues here…Anyone figure this out?

 

[N00bMaster69]

Bump same issue

 

[Garf]

Bump same issue

You read post #3?

 

[sculpin01]

I would raise concern for a bacterial-based issue, notably Arcobacter. I personally have done in-tank Cipro and have seen improvements in corals post-treatment. First step would be to send an Aquabiomics sample in to check.

Experimenting with in-tank antibiotic treatments for Brown Jelly Disease

Brown Jelly Disease (BJD) is an issue many reefers have run into. Like most coral diseases, the pathogen causing BJD has not been conclusively determined. Here I will share some observations and test results supporting the idea that its caused by a bacterial pathogen, and so may be treatable...

www.reef2reef.com

Treating SCTLD

After receiving a new AquaBiomics test result, Ive found that I have SCTLD in my system I have been battling a mysterious RTN/STN event in my tank for months now. All parameters have been great, Ive sent out at least 5 ICP test results and fixed any minor problem I had so I figured it had to be...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[Badboy GP]

any update on this, I'm having the exact same.
2 plus years tank.. icp test nothing too high...

Gona try rowa phos

Also used caribsea dry rock.

 

[ReefInSocal]

Resurrecting an old thread because I feel like I have the answer!

I had the same issue and it turned out to be the water supply in Los Angeles. LADWP started added chloramines into the system and it really ****** a lot of people over in the hobby.

What saved me and my system was installing Chloramine Blaster cartridges in my RO system.

I FULLY believe this is you fix if anyone has these issues!

 

[ID-Reefer]

How did you determine this? Through icp test?

I have a 250 gal mixed reef that is SPS dominant. Having issues with burnt tips. I have large colonies that have grown well but occasionally I deal with burnt tips. No major alk or nutrient swings. Will occasionally lose a coral but typically like right now it’s burnt tips and driving
Me mad. Waiting on another icp test.

 

[sjfishguy]

I have been keeping acros for 20 years, new to this forum. The most common reason for burnt tips and white montis in my experience is either your alk is too high, you are using too much gfo, or chloramines. Your alk might be higher than you think if your refractometer is off. I would recalibrate your refractometer with brand new calibration solution and see if that is off. Then retest everything. Then buy a second alk kit and confirm the first alk test. If it’s still all good, drop your alk to 6.5 or 7 for a month. Once things get better (if they do) then slowly increase it back to 8.

also, most municipalities use chloramines now so just swap out the standard carbon blocks for chloramine blocks just to be sure. What’s an extra $20 to save hundreds (or thousands) in coral. I hope this helps.

 

[Asagi]

I have been keeping acros for 20 years, new to this forum. The most common reason for burnt tips and white montis in my experience is either your alk is too high, you are using too much gfo, or chloramines. Your alk might be higher than you think if your refractometer is off. I would recalibrate your refractometer with brand new calibration solution and see if that is off. Then retest everything. Then buy a second alk kit and confirm the first alk test. If it’s still all good, drop your alk to 6.5 or 7 for a month. Once things get better (if they do) then slowly increase it back to 8.

also, most municipalities use chloramines now so just swap out the standard carbon blocks for chloramine blocks just to be sure. What’s an extra $20 to save hundreds (or thousands) in coral. I hope this helps.

Thanks for this

 

[Pod_01]

also, most municipalities use chloramines now so just swap out the standard carbon blocks for chloramine blocks just to be sure. What’s an extra $20 to save hundreds (or thousands) in coral. I hope this helps.

Not to agree or disagree but based on Randy’s experience the extra $20 can be saved.

In my studies using real world reefers, regular carbon blocks usually worked fine.

So I'd test and use them if needed, and don't bother spending the extra if normal blocks work for you (as they did for me).

I guess the question comes down to, what makes the chloramine carbon blocks different compared to regular carbon block. Maybe it is just the extra $20 and new label.