My SPS color is ...

[Keithcorals]

It's NOT phosphate with the way those corals look I would say possible low Ca if you are using API and getting a reading of 450 you calcium could be as low as 380 but the high alk is more likly the problem.

The API phosphate test is almost useless in a SPS tank the lowest reading is .25 I would shoot for .06-.03

Definitely lower your alk to 7.5-8

I would invest in good test kits if you really want to buy something to help with color.
Salifert for Ca,ALk,MG
And Hanna phosphorous for phosphate

Also I'm will to bet adding a small amout of amino acids every day would help as well. Your corals look starved and burnt. Just my opinion but I have consistently good color and growth with the kits and parameters I've recommend.

 

[specialk]

It's NOT phosphate with the way those corals look I would say possible low Ca if you are using API and getting a reading of 450 you calcium could be as low as 380 but the high alk is more likly the problem.

The API phosphate test is almost useless in a SPS tank the lowest reading is .25 I would shoot for .06-.03

Definitely lower your alk to 7.5-8

I would invest in good test kits if you really want to buy something to help with color.
Salifert for Ca,ALk,MG
And Hanna phosphorous for phosphate

Also I'm will to bet adding a small amout of amino acids every day would help as well. Your corals look starved and burnt. Just my opinion but I have consistently good color and growth with the kits and parameters I've recommend.

What would you recommend for amino acids? Just today I started adding aqua-cultured Phytoplankton .. will this do the trick you think? ...

Also I had no idea that high ALK could cause the corals to look this way .. I think that maybe since I did start dosing that this is when they started to look this way. So this may indeed be the case when I am thinking about this. I just went by the red sea testing kit and their "suggested" ALK readings for "accelerated growth" ... lesson learned that's for sure. My ALK is now more in check after that water change (its now 9.2) but I will bring that down some more thats for sure

 

[specialk]

You said your nitrate is 0 correct? It is amazing what a little bit of nitrate will do.....


I moved my tank and nitrate spiked to 1ppm from some die off. Its the only thing that changed with the tank. It actually took under 3 weeks for it to make this color transformation.

Yes sir ... 0 nitrates!

 

[Pete polyp]

Yes sir ... 0 nitrates!

I never put forth an effort to have 0 nitrates, it just worked out that way until I moved the tank. I now put forth an effort to have a small amount. The difference in color since the move 6 months ago is truly astounding. I agree with them being starved a bit.

 

[specialk]

It's NOT phosphate with the way those corals look I would say possible low Ca if you are using API and getting a reading of 450 you calcium could be as low as 380 but the high alk is more likly the problem.

Oh yah, .. and I am using Red Sea Reef Foundation testing kit for my Calcium.

Also after looking at those pics, and making the assumption that it is not the phosphates .. would you reccomend that I still run GFO as I order a phosban reactor today? As my nitrates are high-"er" and some recc. that I run GFO, while some others are saying their phosphates are the same. So I am a bit confused. I can always use the phosban reactor to run some activated carbon anyways which I am not running and have been wanting to .. so all is not lost. Just dont know if I should get that phosphate down or if it is ok.

 

[Keithcorals]

Red Sea is ok for calcium as far as I can tell I get the same result with it as salifert. I wouldn't be suprised at all if you tested your phosphate with a Hanna you would get a way lower reading. I wouldn't run GFO it can also have bad side effects if it is added too fast to a system with phosphate and is pointless in a system that doesn't need it. I use fuel but acro power should also work. I highly recomend dosing a small amout daily over larger amounts less frequently.

 

[Keithcorals]

I don't like phytoplankton it is grown with fertilizer and that's what has more of an affect than the algae itself. I have no problem growing gorgonians in my system and I never add the stuff. But I feed a lot of rods food

 

[specialk]

Red Sea is ok for calcium as far as I can tell I get the same result with it as salifert. I wouldn't be suprised at all if you tested your phosphate with a Hanna you would get a way lower reading. I wouldn't run GFO it can also have bad side effects if it is added too fast to a system with phosphate and is pointless in a system that doesn't need it. I use fuel but acro power should also work. I highly recomend dosing a small amout daily over larger amounts less frequently.

Aquavitro Fuel by Seachem right?

 

[Keithcorals]

Yup that's the one it was the last thing I added to my routine. I was getting good color and growth but wanted a little more saturated colors. It made a noticeable difference in a couple weeks. I stoped dosing it and see could the color decline. I've stoped and started it enough times to know it makes a difference

 

[specialk]

Yup that's the one it was the last thing I added to my routine. I was getting good color and growth but wanted a little more saturated colors. It made a noticeable difference in a couple weeks. I stoped dosing it and see could the color decline. I've stoped and started it enough times to know it makes a difference

Yah I think I may give that stuff a try. It is either that or Acropower ... I have been reading up on Acropower and I am not sure which one is better -- if one is better then the other. I am sure it is all opinion based ... think I may try the Fuel.

 

[specialk]

I highly recomend dosing a small amout daily over larger amounts less frequently.

Keith -- how much do you think I should add every day if you think small dosages everyday are better. I have a 155 gallon system sump included. Thanks my man

 

[Keithcorals]

I would start with half a cap per day and after a week go to a full cap after that I would give it at least two weeks at that dosage and only increase it again if you're not getting results. Decrease the dosage if you see bad side effects (algae) I dose one and a half caps a day in my system with around 200 gal

 

[specialk]

I would start with half a cap per day and after a week go to a full cap after that I would give it at least two weeks at that dosage and only increase it again if you're not getting results. Decrease the dosage if you see bad side effects (algae) I dose one and a half caps a day in my system with around 200 gal

Sweet .. just started today. I hope this helps out -- also going to work on getting that AlK down as well as bringing the phosphates down a bit as well. Threw a sock in my sump with some GFO to bring the levels down a bit -- instead of running the phosban reactor.

 

[jservedio]

Sweet .. just started today. I hope this helps out -- also going to work on getting that AlK down as well as bringing the phosphates down a bit as well. Threw a sock in my sump with some GFO to bring the levels down a bit -- instead of running the phosban reactor.

Be careful running GFO - especially without being able to monitor your phosphate levels accurately. Either buying, or finding someone with a Hanna ULR Phosphorus checker (HI-736) is going to be key to dialing in a GFO reactor. Going from high phosphate levels and stripping the tank completely down to 0 is really, really bad. What you want to do is drop your phosphates slowly while monitoring them so you know when they are at a low, sustainable level. Targeting 0.02 - 0.04 as a low point is a good place to start - slowly adding GFO to get it down to there. I would start with 1/4-1/3 of what the BRS calculator suggests and increase it from there. Once it is in your target range, you monitor it every week to see where it goes. Once it gets to a target high level, say 0.06 or 0.08, you will know when to change it. That will tell you exactly how much GFO you need to maintain a low phosphate level and tell you how long it will last. Then you just need to test periodically, very infrequently unless you have a problem, to make minor adjustments up or down in your GFO usage.

By monitoring your phosphate level, you can figure out exactly how much you need to keep your phosphates down at a manageable level and learn how long it will last in your tank before you need to change it.

GFO Calculator: Reef Calculator - Bulk Reef Supply - click on GFO. Their suggestions are typically way high and you only want to start with a fraction of their suggestion.

 

[marke]

Keith. I respect you a lot after seeing that orange passion at rap. So I would like to ask a question to learn and understand not argue. But how can you come to a conclusion that it's not phosphate? He tested with a wimpy test kit and got .25? I am sure it's not precise but it very high? My sps start to show me the discoloration when po4 gets to above .1. Currently at .06. But your eye after seeing the pic said it's not po4. What did you see. Share the knowledge. But until he gets it checked with a Hanna or better. We are not sure? Then giving him advise based on what my opinion (still respectfully disagree with you) is an inconclusive assumption may be doing him more harm. That is if he has high phosphates adding additives will only raise po4. If I am correct when we spoke you mention your po4 was real low. Think you said .02. Correct me. When you have an ulns like that feeding is a must. But not the case in a high nutrient system. Let's discuss and learn together.

 

[specialk]

Be careful running GFO - especially without being able to monitor your phosphate levels accurately. Either buying, or finding someone with a Hanna ULR Phosphorus checker (HI-736) is going to be key to dialing in a GFO reactor. Going from high phosphate levels and stripping the tank completely down to 0 is really, really bad. What you want to do is drop your phosphates slowly while monitoring them so you know when they are at a low, sustainable level. Targeting 0.02 - 0.04 as a low point is a good place to start - slowly adding GFO to get it down to there. I would start with 1/4-1/3 of what the BRS calculator suggests and increase it from there. Once it is in your target range, you monitor it every week to see where it goes. Once it gets to a target high level, say 0.06 or 0.08, you will know when to change it. That will tell you exactly how much GFO you need to maintain a low phosphate level and tell you how long it will last. Then you just need to test periodically, very infrequently unless you have a problem, to make minor adjustments up or down in your GFO usage.

By monitoring your phosphate level, you can figure out exactly how much you need to keep your phosphates down at a manageable level and learn how long it will last in your tank before you need to change it.

GFO Calculator: Reef Calculator - Bulk Reef Supply - click on GFO. Their suggestions are typically way high and you only want to start with a fraction of their suggestion.

Thanks bro .. yah I was warned about running a reactor and the dangers of doing this. I am and was a bit worried about doing this... SO this is why I simply added a sock with some GFO in there (about 1/2 of the smallest BRS GFO) to slowly bring it down. I did not want to shock it so this is what some saltwater experts at my LFS told me to do .. so I went this route with the sock in the sump. They warned me about what you are saying and I appreciate that ... that would be a nightmare for someone and I did not want that to happen to me.

I am hoping the sock will work out for what I am trying to do .. bring it down a little bit

 

[marke]

Good sdvice above. But I think the first thing you need to do is invest $50 in a Hanna checker. Then when you know you know your level. Take action. If Keith is right and your po4 is low. Then Gfo is not the answer. If your po4 are elevated than Gfo is good. Test first!

 

[saltylife]

In my sps tank my params are:

Nitrates around 2 ppm
Calcium 450
Alk 9
Mag 1350
Phosphate .04

I dose reef chilli and fuel every three days
Water change 20 gallons every week and once a month 35 gallons to keep phosphates from getting away from me.

I use the same leds. I have found that after purchasing a frag that came from different lighting they wash out for about the first 4-6 months. Once really settled in I start to notice color coming in nicely

Testing with a reliable test kit makes a difference. You spend so much on your livestock why cut corners on a test kit. IMO.
Ie.

 

[jservedio]

Thanks bro .. yah I was warned about running a reactor and the dangers of doing this. I am and was a bit worried about doing this... SO this is why I simply added a sock with some GFO in there (about 1/2 of the smallest BRS GFO) to slowly bring it down. I did not want to shock it so this is what some saltwater experts at my LFS told me to do .. so I went this route with the sock in the sump. They warned me about what you are saying and I appreciate that ... that would be a nightmare for someone and I did not want that to happen to me.

I am hoping the sock will work out for what I am trying to do .. bring it down a little bit

Even putting GFO in a sock you can still strip out your phosphates. I am not saying you shouldn't run it, but you need to take the same precautions as you would if it were in a reactor. In a sock, it gets tons of flow through it and is working almost as well as it would in a reactor. I agree 100% with marke and saltylife that you should spend the $50 on the Hanna ULR Phosphorus Checker to know for sure what is going on. With Acros, you definitely want an accurate bead on your phosphates since they are one of the key factors in getting them to color up. While you are at it, the Hanna Alkalinity checker is an awesome investment too. Makes checking Alkalinity a 1 minute or less ordeal and you check it way more often which is a great habit.

When you get into SPS if there is a problem, and you don't correctly diagnose it through testing, you can cause way more harm with an improper solution than the original problem did. Keep your parameters as stable as possible until you can reliably test your phosphate. When you do take corrective action, only change one thing at a time so you can properly attribute any changes.

 

[specialk]

In my sps tank my params are:

Nitrates around 2 ppm
Calcium 450
Alk 9
Mag 1350
Phosphate .04

I dose reef chilli and fuel every three days
Water change 20 gallons every week and once a month 35 gallons to keep phosphates from getting away from me.

I use the same leds. I have found that after purchasing a frag that came from different lighting they wash out for about the first 4-6 months. Once really settled in I start to notice color coming in nicely

Testing with a reliable test kit makes a difference. You spend so much on your livestock why cut corners on a test kit. IMO.
Ie.

Good to see someone else running the same lights. And great looking corals! I am sure you are happy with the lights as well? Yes I agree on the phosphate test kit. I am going to get one of those asap.

And I hear ya on the corals and taking some time, but this is different. They were looking good, growing and then their color started to drop and fade .. get worse not stay the same. And like I said they are growing, but the color is fading -- noticeably. Enough to where i could tell something was wrong. And the one thing that adds up is that this started about the time I started dosing with Randys #2 and getting the ALK levels to high. So while I don't discount the phosphate factor .. I have not done anything different in the last 1.5 months OTHER THEN overly dosing ALK. I do not feed alot. I do not have alot of fish in there. So everything was the same -- EXCEPT the dosing for ALK. And this is when I noticed things starting to go downhill.