My torch is dying!?

turtle1937

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I have a reef tank that is 5 month old I know it’s still young the first coral I put in was a Kenya then I added a torch and then a dunkin and then a candy cane. I have several soft corals that are doing great! Anyway my torch I think is dying I tested my water and it goes as follows
Salinity:1.027( I know it’s high I can’t seem to get it down I top off with ro di )
nitrate:0
Phos: trace ( so not quite a 0 but not .25)
Calcium-19 (I dosed Calcium yesterday so it should be a 21-22)
Alk- 8
Ammonia-0
Nitrite-0
For my lighting I have 2 Chinese black boxes they are amazing and I love them but would like to upgrade to hydras. For fish I have:
Blue hippo tang
Vlamingi tang
Two clown fish
1 banggia cardinal
1flame angel
1 scooter blenny
1 diamond goby
And a cleaner shrimp
Snails and hermits
Emerald crabs
My tank is a 180 gallons with a 65 gallon sump I don’t have a protein skimmers yet I filter with a sock and floss and my refugium. I was told my tank was toooooo clean so I added in some marine snow. But my other LPS are doing great so idk what’s going on with my torch no fish pick on it and I feed my fish once a day with frozen mysis,saltwater pack, reef plankton,emerald entree, and fish eggs with some garlic guard. I put seaweed in there but no one eats it. I posted a picture of my torch and other LPS CORALS please let me know what you think it could be and if it’s dying

image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
 
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There could be lot of reasons. On top could be an issue with the hammer itself. Or could be unstable parameters, too clean tank, etc.
But what does it mean by calcium 19?
 
Sorry about your torch troubles. I think some pics with more white light, and less blue would help some. It almost looks like something just irritated it, and that it wants to open back up. How long has it been closed? As far as your water, do you use an ATO? If so, just pull out 3-4 cups of display tank water and retest salinity. It should be down to 1.026, if that’s where you would like it. :)
 
There could be lot of reasons. On top could be an issue with the hammer itself. Or could be unstable parameters, too clean tank, etc.
But what does it mean by calcium 19?
My calcium is at 380 19 is the drops it took before the change. All my other LPS are doing good the torch was one of the first lps in my tank
 
Sorry about your torch troubles. I think some pics with more white light, and less blue would help some. It almost looks like something just irritated it, and that it wants to open back up. How long has it been closed? As far as your water, do you use an ATO? If so, just pull out 3-4 cups of display tank water and retest salinity. It should be down to 1.026, if that’s where you would like it. :)
I do not I get my ro di from work but I have some left so maybe I’ll take some out and add it in
 
Yea, that should work. I would highly suggest an ATO. It stabilizes your salinity, while giving you more time to do the things you really want to do, like shop for more coral. :)
Interesting I will definitely look into that!!!!!!!! Any suggestions on a great new coral!? Not sps though haha I have bad luck with sps
 
My calcium is at 380 19 is the drops it took before the change. All my other LPS are doing good the torch was one of the first lps in my tank
380 should be fine. If it’s just the hammer maybe give it few weeks. It will recover back. In the mean time try to keep the parameters stable including mg and feed a little more. LPS need some nitrates to do well. As with the salinity 1.027 is fine not a big issue. But to bring it down you can add some RODI water by removing some tank water.
 
In terms of phosphates, the level of .25 is quite high in comparison to your nitrates at 0.
These two must remain in balance and the red field ratio of carbon to nitrogen to phosphorus can be used as a rough guide. As an example, my nitrate is 5ppm and my phosphate .1.

Torches are sometimes hit or miss corals they can either flourish or die in what appears to be identical environments.

I would double check that nitrate number and if zero, you need to increase that to say 5-10ppm.

CCB lights are fine, they are great bang for your buck and grow corals as good as any reef light.

I have used CCB for 4 years now.
D334D41C-77E2-41C7-A44F-87BCBFA514A9.jpeg
 
In terms of phosphates, the level of .25 is quite high in comparison to your nitrates at 0.
These two must remain in balance and the red field ratio of carbon to nitrogen to phosphorus can be used as a rough guide. As an example, my nitrate is 5ppm and my phosphate .1.

Torches are sometimes hit or miss corals they can either flourish or die in what appears to be identical environments.

I would double check that nitrate number and if zero, you need to increase that to say 5-10ppm.

CCB lights are fine, they are great bang for your buck and grow corals as good as any reef light.

I have used CCB for 4 years now.
D334D41C-77E2-41C7-A44F-87BCBFA514A9.jpeg
Oh sorry not .25 it’s literally a trace of phos it’s pretty much 0 but still has a slight tint but not enough
 
Ok, if both are just trace, then corals will starve.
N and P should be available to corals in balance, the min nitrate I would run is 2-5ppm, no higher than 10ppm
P should run in the 0.5-.1 ppm range and not more than .3
 

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