For me, I don’t care about the natural look - I want to be able to see the different pigments showcased and to show off why that show piece (like a homewrecker, etc) was worth the price with its unique coloration.
I run my peak period at about 13k-15k (AB+ geared spectrum) which is similar to the T5 look without the flatness.
I challenge any of the “natural look is the only look” folks to take a picture of your homewrecker acro (or similar type show piece) under 6500k and show why it’s a show piece next to any other basic acro.
Some folks want to mimic the natural reefs to be closer to scuba diving in their own house and some folks love to show off tanks like subjective art pieces (some people like photorealistic art, and some love having Van Gogh pieces instead which is obviously not a natural rendering of the night sky - stary night).
We all reef for different reasons. Sounds like the “blue is a gimmick” crowd in here all reef to recreate their scuba experiences. I’m sorry, but not all of us have that motive behind why we have our tanks.
Now, I hate the windex look, because it washes out any blue corals you have, but I equally hate the 6500K look because it’s too dull without enough pop to showcase different pigments.
Here’s a video BRS did (not in science of the spectrum but visual appeal) with balancing the spectrum to avoid washouts as well as dullness.
No, corals do not only need low par, blue light.
They can grow fine in full spectrum, no one is claiming they can’t, but the blue part of the spectrum is what is most efficient (which is why people were bleaching corals so easily back when LEDs first came out).
Halides/T5 were on and off. With LEDs, we now are able to use only the wattage for the spectrum we need rather than “live” with whatever default spectrum and intensity old tech gave. This is a huge reason why more folks run more blue than back in the day - because you actually have the ability to.