Need advice

[Justmike]

I am on day 2 of my qt copper treatment for my 2 new fish . When testing the water the nitrite and ammonia seem a little high , now my seachem badge is saying .05 ammonia but the API test is reading 4ppm (aware copper can cause misread in ammonia api test ) and my Nitrite is reading 1.0 / 1.5 ppm . 2 days prior before treatment both the ammonia and the nitrite read 0 . Need advice on how to move forward ,
10 gallon qt
Water change ? Percentage ? Transfer fish to dt?
Need advice

 

[jenreefer]

water change 20-30% and retest.

 

[Justmike]

Hello jenreefer I did a 30 percent the readings are now as follows
Nitrite .50ppm on API
Ammonia .25 on API
.02 on seachem badge

Let me know
Mike

 

[Chrisfish]

Hi there, any amt. of ammonia in a tank is bad. I will call in some more #reefsquad members that can help you.

 

[Brew12]

I wouldn't worry about the API ammonia test, as you point out. It will give a false high reading. Your level of ammonia isn't a problem yet, but should be monitored. Whatever you do, DO NOT ADD PRIME or any other ammonia reducer to your systsem!!!!

A water change would be just fine. Not sure if it is necessary but if in doubt it is always a safe play. Just treat the new water with copper prior to adding it to your tank.

Are you shining a flashlight on the back of the Seachem badge to read it? If you don't have a brightly lit QT they can be hard to read some times.
How did you establish your biofilter for your QT?

 

[Justmike]

Hey brew12
My biofilter was established months ago when the display tank whent fallow and copper treated the dt fish in the qt, I kept it going since then , with new qt fish and mb7 and water changes , everything has been fine until this first 25 percent copper dose . My thought is that over the holiday the qt was fallow for about 7 to 8 days and wondering if it restarted a mini cycle. I can see the badge as this was the first time there was a "reading " from it this whole time .
How often should I do the water changes in the qt and keep doing the 20 to 30 percent ?
Let me know your thoughts .

 

[Brew12]

Hey brew12
My biofilter was established months ago when the display tank whent fallow and copper treated the dt fish in the qt, I kept it going since then , with new qt fish and mb7 and water changes , everything has been fine until this first 25 percent copper dose . My thought is that over the holiday the qt was fallow for about 7 to 8 days and wondering if it restarted a mini cycle. I can see the badge as this was the first time there was a "reading " from it this whole time .
How often should I do the water changes in the qt and keep doing the 20 to 30 percent ?
Let me know your thoughts .

I would recommend trying to shine a flashlight onto the back of the badge and reading it again. My fear is that you have a higher reading than you may think.

A short fallow period won't negatively impact your biofilter and shouldn't cause a cycle.
I use an HOB rated for a 40 gallon tank on my 10g QT/HT. I seed it with Biospira and have never had an ammonia reading through multiple Coppersafe treatments.

I think a 20 to 30 percent water change would be a good idea. I try not to do water changes when I QT for stability reasons. I would definitely do one if I saw 0.25ppm ammonia or if I get to 50ppm nitrates. And yes, I know nitrates at that level don't hurt the fish, but it makes me nervous.

 

[Humblefish]

^^ Agree with @Brew12. Shine a bright white light either directly overhead or behind the ammonia alert badge and reassess the situation.

 

[Justmike]

Hey brew , you mention nitrate , mine was a nitrite reading, was that a typo in your end ?

Hello humble .

Likght was flashed behind and seachem ammonia badge is saying safe .02 the nitrite is still reading between .25 ppm and .50 ppm on API with 25 percent of copper dose .

 

[Brew12]

Hey brew , you mention nitrate , mine was a nitrite reading, was that a typo in your end ?

Hello humble .

Likght was flashed behind and seachem ammonia badge is saying safe .02 the nitrite is still reading between .25 ppm and .50 ppm on API with 25 percent of copper dose .

Nope, not typo. I never test for nitrite other than for curiosity. Nitrite is extremely toxic to fish. Fortunately for us salt water hobbyists, the same receptors in a fish that would absorb nitrite have a higher affinity for chlorides. The salt in the water blocks the fish from absorbing the nitrites so I don't worry about them or test for them. Well, unless I am cycling a new tank and then only as a data point on how the cycle is going.

 

[fin mike]

Whatever you do, DO NOT ADD PRIME or any other ammonia reducer to your systsem!!!!

Why? I use prime sometimes.

 

[melypr1985]

Why? I use prime sometimes.

Because prime and other ammonia reducers will change the copper into a more toxic form which can and will kill your fish. He means not to ever add prime when using copper and to be safe, any other medications.

 

[Brew12]

Why? I use prime sometimes.

Because prime and other ammonia reducers will change the copper into a more toxic form which can and will kill your fish. He means not to ever add prime when using copper and to be safe, any other medications.

+1 on this

 

[fin mike]

Thanks guys. One more nugget of info for the book titled "What not to do"!

 

[4FordFamily]

I did daily water changes on my qt when it was loaded and uncycled of literally 80%. Once things settled I used my badge as a guide. I noticed it always looks like a little ammonia is present but I quickly learned what "0 ammonia" looked like because after a 80% water change it was almost all gone. Anything other than that shade of yellow and it was water change time.

 

[Justmike]

Thank you all for your help again !!!