Need advice
- Thread starter PGriff
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Ok, 24 hr follow up. I used the Dr. Tims like it said and just checked the water 24 hrs later, results below, and i took a few pictures of things starting to grow, was hoping someone could help identify them for me and let me know its normal.
I pourded in the Dr. Tims and one drop of ammonia per gal. as the video instructs. Results below. They says 0.25 ppm of ammonia and 0.0 ppm of nitrites. Acording to the Dr. Tims video you add some more Ammonium Chloride and wait another 24 hrs. which is what im doing.
I pourded in the Dr. Tims and one drop of ammonia per gal. as the video instructs. Results below. They says 0.25 ppm of ammonia and 0.0 ppm of nitrites. Acording to the Dr. Tims video you add some more Ammonium Chloride and wait another 24 hrs. which is what im doing.
I have a new question while I wait for the tank to cycle. It's been up and running for roughly 40 hrs now, and I've had to ad roughly 1/4 to 1/2 gal of RO/DI water to the sump. What is your evaporation rate for your size tank?
40 gal breeder
20 sump
at the rate it's going about 1/2 gal every two days?
40 gal breeder
20 sump
at the rate it's going about 1/2 gal every two days?
Mjrenz
2500 Club Member
That's pretty normal, eventually you will be researching auto top off systems when you're tired of adding water every day
Mjrenz
2500 Club Member
I have roughly 90 gallons between 2 tanks that are piped to one sump, I went through about 8 gallons last week
I did a lot of research before starting this and even did some on the ATOs, I just never thought to figure in for evaporation. lol
I intend to make acrylic lids for both tanks eventually sure that will ease some of it.
Mjrenz
2500 Club Member
I'd actually recommend against the lids, a lot of the corals and other creatures you put in the tank will need very intense lighting to survive and an acrylic lid will block some of the light(especially when it gets dirty). Having the surface open to the air also helps with cooling to prevent overheating the tank and gas exchange to get rid of c02 and oxygenate the water.
For the overall health of your tank letting the evaporation happen is unfortunately the best thing. If you do want a lid to keep fish from jumping the diy clear netting kits work well
Mjrenz
2500 Club Member
One other recommendation, eventually you are going to want to stop using the api kit and get a better one. I use the salifert kits myself, you'll understand why when you make the change
First, I'll be posting more pictures after I get this running. My first saltwater tank so I need some advice. I have a 40gal breeder with a 20 gal sump and I think I'm at the point for sand and water. I have a 5 stage Ro/DI 50 GPD system, I was wondering if it's ok to use house water to start the tank off since I'll be using Dr. Tims conditioner to the water, and just do a few water changes before adding fish?
Thanks in advance.
Bump!
I have a few questions you guy might be able to help me with. Today is day 12 of the cycling process and I just got the lights finished and set up. When I turned them on I found things growing on the rocks. Ammonia is at 0 nitrites at 2.0 ppm and Nitrates around 40 Ph 8.0 and Salinity 1.026
1. How long does the Nitrite portion of the cycling process take?
2. Should I change out some water to lower the salinity?
3. and could anyone help identify what these are and let me know it's normal?
Bump!
I have a few questions you guy might be able to help me with. Today is day 12 of the cycling process and I just got the lights finished and set up. When I turned them on I found things growing on the rocks. Ammonia is at 0 nitrites at 2.0 ppm and Nitrates around 40 Ph 8.0 and Salinity 1.026
1. How long does the Nitrite portion of the cycling process take?
2. Should I change out some water to lower the salinity?
3. and could anyone help identify what these are and let me know it's normal?
Scratch that I mean day 16 of the cycling process.
