Need basic carpentry help for building my own stand

[glb]

I would put a sheet of plywood directly under your sump. Those beautiful tera cotta tiles are not perfectly flat and that could cause the seals in the sump to fail, unlikely but a piece of plywood would prevent that.

Can you remove the screws and re seat the top frame. Another consideration is if you are going to put a plywood skin on it that will provide support as long as it is screwed into the frame that should be enough.

Thanks. I am going to put plywood on the bottom of the stand to level the floor and for waterproofing.

As far as the top, I took out the screws and it's still sitting like that. I guess the wood glue dried because I can't pry the top off. I'm going to skin the top with plywood too so I think it will be ok. I just can't figure it out. Everything was cut, measured and leveled perfectly. It's a mystery to me. Lol.

 

[glb]

While we're on the subject, can I secure a plywood top and bottom with just waterproof wood glue? There will be so much weight on both that screws don't seem necessary.

 

[glb]

For the top frame gaps, I've thought about leaving the screws out until the tank is filled with water to see if the gaps close up under the weight. Then I could redrill if necessary. It's glued on there pretty good and not going anywhere.

 

[glb]

I would put a sheet of plywood directly under your sump. Those beautiful tera cotta tiles are not perfectly flat and that could cause the seals in the sump to fail, unlikely but a piece of plywood would prevent that.

Can you remove the screws and re seat the top frame. Another consideration is if you are going to put a plywood skin on it that will provide support as long as it is screwed into the frame that should be enough.

So I should screw the top on as well as glue it?

 

[Lynn52]

I'd screw it on. The glue is actually very strong but it needs to be held tightly together while it dries, the screws serve that function. More importantly a lot of wood glues are water soluble.

 

[glb]

Ok time to skin my stand. I have an idea about the order things should go on but I'm open to suggestions here goes:

1. Top and bottom: these will be plywood to help stabilize and waterproof the stand.

2. Back: also regular plywood. I'll drill holes in it for the pipes and for electrical cords.

3. Sides: they come at this point. so they can cover the back on each end. I'm going to use bead board for this. I plan on making them removable with magnets. Do I need a router to make holes where the magnets will go so the sides will lay flat?

4. Front: this is where the nice stuff will go. Nice wood, trim, etc. I'm also planning to make the whole thing removable so the sumps easier to get to. I can cover the wood seams from the sides with the front.

My only problem here is how do I cover the side seams of the front? Another option would be to cut the sides a little longer so the front can fit between them and then use trim to cover the raw edges from the sides. What do you think is the best plan?

 

[glb]

Bump. I'd really appreciate any help with the best order to assemble the 'skin' of my stand.

 

[KingTriton]

1. Top and bottom: these will be plywood to help stabilize and waterproof the stand. Ill send you over a pic of how I have my plywood bottom setup after lunch.

2. Back: also regular plywood. I'll drill holes in it for the pipes and for electrical cords. Using 1/4'' plywood will work great here as its easier to cut your holes and cheap and easier to remove if later on you want to change the backing setup.

3. Sides: they come at this point. so they can cover the back on each end. I'm going to use bead board for this. I plan on making them removable with magnets. Do I need a router to make holes where the magnets will go so the sides will lay flat? Question why do you want to be able to remove the sides? Given the short width opening of the internal stand I doubt you'd be able to have much access to it anyway. I generally only have the sides removable if I need to get a sump ran though it, which in this case your location and width wouldn't allow anyways.

4. Front: this is where the nice stuff will go. Nice wood, trim, etc. I'm also planning to make the whole thing removable so the sumps easier to get to. I can cover the wood seams from the sides with the front. You won't need to have a removable plywood setup for this. What I plan on doing is setting up a removable center brace with the use a my kreg jig. This will allow me to have my front stationed while still allowing me to remove the "plywood" center brace with the use of one screw on top and bottom of the centerbrace board. All will remain invisible and look better than without once the cabinets are in place to prevent any cabinet gaps in-between.

My only problem here is how do I cover the side seams of the front? Another option would be to cut the sides a little longer so the front can fit between them and then use trim to cover the raw edges from the sides. What do you think is the best plan?
My front goes across the whole stand covering my sides. I don't use removable sheets so I can cover this gap with wood filler and paint over it. You wouldn't be able to see anything after its all done.

 

[KingTriton]

Double post

 

[glb]

1. Top and bottom: these will be plywood to help stabilize and waterproof the stand. Ill send you over a pic of how I have my plywood bottom setup after lunch.

2. Back: also regular plywood. I'll drill holes in it for the pipes and for electrical cords. Using 1/4'' plywood will work great here as its easier to cut your holes and cheap and easier to remove if later on you want to change the backing setup.

3. Sides: they come at this point. so they can cover the back on each end. I'm going to use bead board for this. I plan on making them removable with magnets. Do I need a router to make holes where the magnets will go so the sides will lay flat? Question why do you want to be able to remove the sides? Given the short width opening of the internal stand I doubt you'd be able to have much access to it anyway. I generally only have the sides removable if I need to get a sump ran though it, which in this case your location and width wouldn't allow anyways.

4. Front: this is where the nice stuff will go. Nice wood, trim, etc. I'm also planning to make the whole thing removable so the sumps easier to get to. I can cover the wood seams from the sides with the front. You won't need to have a removable plywood setup for this. What I plan on doing is setting up a removable center brace with the use a my kreg jig. This will allow me to have my front stationed while still allowing me to remove the "plywood" center brace with the use of one screw on top and bottom of the centerbrace board. All will remain invisible and look better than without once the cabinets are in place to prevent any cabinet gaps in-between.

My only problem here is how do I cover the side seams of the front? Another option would be to cut the sides a little longer so the front can fit between them and then use trim to cover the raw edges from the sides. What do you think is the best plan?
My front goes across the whole stand covering my sides. I don't use removable sheets so I can cover this gap with wood filler and paint over it. You wouldn't be able to see anything after its all done.

Thank you! The reason I want the sides to be removable is I have room on the left side to build an electrical section with a dividing wall to keep it dry. I had planned on mounting the surge protector to the dividing wall itself (facing the left side inner wall) and then I could easily access it from the side. If I mount the surge protector on the back wall, it would be harder to get too. I guess I wouldn't need to remove the right side of the stand. As far as the front, what you're saying makes sense. My reason was just having more room to move around while I work on the sump. Also, I could remove the sump if I had too. I really appreciate the time you took to answer all my questions!

 

[glb]

One last question about attaching it all. For the top and bottom, what did you use to attach them? Would wood glue be enough or should I use screws too. I have stainless steel deck screws size 10, but I'm guessing I could use something much smaller on the skin, as it doesn't support weight. As far as the sides and front, screws aren't going to work unless they're from the inside. Other than glue, how did you attach the visible parts of the skin where aesthetics matter?

 

[KingTriton]

For my bottom plywood board Id probably just put in a few screws as the bottom will never really be removed unless you want to use multiple pieces of plywood for your sumps bottom. . Depending on the setup the top doesn't need glued or screwed. Maybe adding one or two might help, but I will be having the tops trim going around it to hold the tank in place, but even then its not really needed as a filled 40 breeder will not allow the top to move. . My tank actually sits directly underneath the skinned plywood and not the 2 x 4 boards, however there is separation with the top plywood cover.

I prefer to have my sumps bottom connected to the stand. This is because if you have to shim and level your stand than it will automatically level your sump. I cut the bottom sumps support boards 3/4'' less than the bottoms display support boards. This will allow you to have your plywood sit flush with the stands opening. Ill get a pic so that you can get a visual.

 

[KingTriton]

After looking at your setups location. Its kinda hard to tell but I personally would just set up the sides permanently while cutting out the opening of the plywood to match the opening of the 2x4s. This will allow your front to match the sides and you can use wood filler. Given the limited space I don't think you'd even see the opening. I prefer opening within my stand as well as it helps with humidity levels within the stand.

 

[KingTriton]

I prefer to have my sumps bottom connected to the stand. This is because if you have to shim and level your stand than it will automatically level your sump. I cut the bottom sumps support boards 3/4'' less than the bottoms display support boards. This will allow you to have your plywood sit flush with the stands opening. Ill get a pic so that you can get a visual.

Just in case you were interested in the supported plywood setup.

 

[glb]

After looking at your setups location. Its kinda hard to tell but I personally would just set up the sides permanently while cutting out the opening of the plywood to match the opening of the 2x4s. This will allow your front to match the sides and you can use wood filler. Given the limited space I don't think you'd even see the opening. I prefer opening within my stand as well as it helps with humidity levels within the stand.

I see what you're saying. I could mount the electronics on the inside of the left side wall instead. I thought about using high quality wood to cover the 2x4 supports in a square, then mount the doors on that.

 

[KingTriton]

I see what you're saying. I could mount the electronics on the inside of the left side wall instead. I thought about using high quality wood to cover the 2x4 supports in a square, then mount the doors on that.

That would work as well. Im using plywood for its strength in support because it has less movement. Since you have the tank supported underneath with 2x4s I think either high quality boards or plywood will work well for you. Maybe even leaving one side open to push unwanted air out away from the equipment and the electronic side closed with a cabinet door over the skinned covering in order to access it. Just thinking out loud here.... Boring day at the office lol

 

[glb]

That would work as well. Im using plywood for its strength in support because it has less movement. Since you have the tank supported underneath with 2x4s I think either high quality boards or plywood will work well for you. Maybe even leaving one side open to push unwanted air out away from the equipment and the electronic side closed with a cabinet door over the skinned covering in order to access it. Just thinking out loud here.... Boring day at the office lol

I really appreciate it!