Need help ASAP !!

[agonzo2008]

My acros are fading and seem to be dying . Tank is 2 years old, recently moved about 3 months ago so corals were stressed . Also had a green hair outbreak which I’m currently battling.
Tank - 75 with 20 long sump
Lights - 2 viparspectra
levels:
Cal- 400
Nitrate - 10-15ppm
Phos-0.10
Nitrite 0
Mag 1250
Rodi system is 3 tds currently need to replace


*could the water be the reason my acros are dying ? All my Zoas are doing great just acros are fading .
Any help would be great . Don’t like my acros looking like .

 

[Casper12065]

Are they getting the same lighting they were before the move, or did you move them up or down in the tank from the prior location? What is ph and kh? Have any parameters changed recently or since the move? Would try to get the tds down to 0.

 

[agonzo2008]

Lights are the same and rock formation are the same and they are still position at same levels . Alk is 7.7 currently and ph is 8.2

 

[Dilan Patel]

I don't see any PE...possibly a pest has been introduced into the system. Anything new that was added in the 3 months the system was up?

 

[agonzo2008]

No pest . I wonder if my rodi is the problem . It might not be filtering my water 100 percent and I’m sure there are metals in the water since it’s running through the apartment complex I live in with copper pipes I’m sure . Could that be the reason for everything going downhill? My tds is still really low at 3.

 

[redfishreef96]

Time for an ICP test. Test your rodi and tank to see what you actually have. Then you can develop a plan to make corrections.

 

[mtraylor]

Usually an alk change can cause this issue as well. What was alk before the move? Have you always ran low alk?

 

[Charlie’s Frags]

How did you get over the green hair algae? Did you dose vibrant?

 

[coralbeauties]

I say pests. Best way to ck for aefw is to take a turkey baster to your corals and blast them and watch for the worms to come off. Another pest that I’ve seen are tiny bugs. You probably will never see them with the naked eye. If you can move an affected coral up close to the glass and use a strong flashlight with a jewelers headset or strong magnifying glass. Watch closely and you will see them crawling about on the coral. Too many times we want to blame water when it’s pests and we just don’t want to admit it due to our pride.
Jeff

 

[NeonRabbit221B]

Mag is 1250... With test kit variations I would bring that up.

I agree that ICP isn't a bad thing to have on order. Pests are an easy thing to rule out as posted above.

 

[Afaylenerich88]

I'd say either pest, flow, but I'm kinda leaning more towards when you moved you stressed them. Then left your lights at the same intensity as you had before, and that's a big no no when moving sps. It would take them at min 2 weeks to recover. Then an additional I'd say 2-3 months to adjust back to par intensity,

I would start there. Sps grown onto the rocks. that moving them would be detrimental to the animal. To be honest it might be better to just Turkey baste them of you see anything then pull and dip. But honestly you might have to let this run its course. I doubt your rodi is the problem unless it's over 20TDS then you definitely have a problem.

Even tho you *purify* the water you should always be useing an additive like Seachem PRIME. This is a must have to help detox any metals left over from the water making process.

If your that worried about it. I'd say icp the water. But honestly a tiny bit of copper wouldn't really matter. Copper come from the ground. Thus is leached into the ocean. It just dosnet contain elevated levels of it.

 

[Azedenkae]

Has your calc and Mg always been 400 and 1250? Seems a bit low to me (for stony corals).

 

[Camaro Show Corals]

No pest . I wonder if my rodi is the problem . It might not be filtering my water 100 percent and I’m sure there are metals in the water since it’s running through the apartment complex I live in with copper pipes I’m sure . Could that be the reason for everything going downhill? My tds is still really low at 3.

Your TDS should be absolutely 0

 

[Camaro Show Corals]

I'd say either pest, flow, but I'm kinda leaning more towards when you moved you stressed them. Then left your lights at the same intensity as you had before, and that's a big no no when moving sps. It would take them at min 2 weeks to recover. Then an additional I'd say 2-3 months to adjust back to par intensity,

I would start there. Sps grown onto the rocks. that moving them would be detrimental to the animal. To be honest it might be better to just Turkey baste them of you see anything then pull and dip. But honestly you might have to let this run its course. I doubt your rodi is the problem unless it's over 20TDS then you definitely have a problem.

RODI water can be a big problem. It should always be 0 TDS. You’ll never know what’s in your water or what that TDS is so why take a chance? If you have high tap tds and are still getting tds after 4 stages or blowing throw filters I’d recommend a 7 stage. I lost $10,000 in coral from a cheap crappy 4 stage unit everyone said was fine. 4 stages is not enough for most people honestly. Your saltwater will only be as good as your rodi water.

 

[NeonRabbit221B]

TDS being positive is not a good thing.

 

[Afaylenerich88]

Your corals you showed, dont look too bad they can be saved. Cal is too low and mag is too low thus tell me 100% your alk, is all over the place and is stressing them. Slight browning when moving is normal. But if the flesh starts to peel and you see skeleton. Then game over. I'm not trying to be a dick. I just dont sugar coat anything. It's better to have a clear path to success rather than chasing the path.

 

[FishTruck]

I have stubbornly let 1 tds run as "ok" and four times now (in 10 years) have had regressive events where my acros slowly faded, browned, and then started dying (stn bottom up) with losses in the 50% range when it happens. In every case, it has reversed with I took my water making seriously and got it back to 0 tds.

In my case... the stuff that gets through is filtered by - anionic media. I started buying the nuclear grade two part DI resin from brs and check my inline tds meter all the time. I added another anionic DI can after the tds meter just to be sure that when I see 1 tds... it's not yet getting through to the tank.

 

[Afaylenerich88]

.

 

[Afaylenerich88]

For this reason I keep my mag closer to 1400.
My reason.
Alk is the most important number in my 5 year run so far and 15+ years in the fish hobbie. And to this day is still one of the most miss understood parameter In Our hobbie

Cal, bio available ion. Taken in by coral to build there calcium carbonate structure most reefs 425-450
Alk, collection of ions, buffering capacity of salt water where bicarbonate turns into carbonic acid
Laments term higher levels lead to greater chemical stability. average range of 8-11dkh it tends to need the most baby sitting. Natural sea water sits about 7-8alk.
Mag , can bind up carbonate ions. Thus increasing the availability of all compounds in the water

If you find that adjusting your cal or alk is not working try your mag levels, you can add all the cal and all you want but if they dont have mag they cannot exchange fast enough. To produce overall availability of ions in the water.

These 3 water perms are constantly reacting with one another to keep water stable
As your acros grow they need more available not just for them but for your water chemistry