NEED HELP BEFORE EVERYTHING DIES

[Stephen8169301]

It makes no difference - the test kits do not explain his problems. The tests may be erroneous - but they cannot measure at the numbers provided. More information is needed - and I would do a large water change with fresh mixed water.

But if he is using test strips who knows what’s actually going on

 

[vetteguy53081]

This is tissue recession and often are associated with Light, flow or both. Often with tissue recession, you will see too much light where the coral expels zooxanthellae which is its color and energy source and referred to as poop which it is not. Too little flow and the polyps shrink. Too much flow and they tear right off the skeleton. They should be swaying in the current but not be bent over the skeleton.
Too much light and there will be too much production of zooxanthellae and even bleaching again causing them stress. The coral skeleton health is important and should not have calcium levels any lower than 380. I suspect too little light which causes them to wither and even die.
While not picky with location , lower third of tank is best where it receives both moderate light and water flow.

 

[Pass12345]

how long have you had them? When did they start retracting?
What kind of light and flow do you have?

Have had some for months others for weeks. Started retracting a week ago. Replaced the return pump and added a new wave maker. Also have switched the light schedule numerous times lately, trying to find a happy medium. I’m starting to think it’s a bacterial infection as when we pulled them I could literally see into one of the hammers heads all the way to the base, where the mouth should be

 

[Pass12345]

This is tissue recession and often are associated with Light, flow or both. Often with tissue recession, you will see too much light where the coral expels zooxanthellae which is its color and energy source and referred to as poop which it is not. Too little flow and the polyps shrink. Too much flow and they tear right off the skeleton. They should be swaying in the current but not be bent over the skeleton.
Too much light and there will be too much production of zooxanthellae and even bleaching again causing them stress. The coral skeleton health is important and should not have calcium levels any lower than 380. I suspect too little light which causes them to wither and even die.
While not picky with location , lower third of tank is best where it receives both moderate light and water flow.

 

[Sharkbait19]

Have had some for months others for weeks. Started retracting a week ago. Replaced the return pump and added a new wave maker. Also have switched the light schedule numerous times lately, trying to find a happy medium. I’m starting to think it’s a bacterial infection as when we pulled them I could literally see into one of the hammers heads all the way to the base, where the mouth should be

When lps corals are dying, they melt back like what you are seeing. It is almost always associated with a param issue when it looks like this.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Have had some for months others for weeks. Started retracting a week ago. Replaced the return pump and added a new wave maker. Also have switched the light schedule numerous times lately, trying to find a happy medium. I’m starting to think it’s a bacterial infection as when we pulled them I could literally see into one of the hammers heads all the way to the base, where the mouth should be

As I mentioned - Light and water flow. Without knowing, you made changes to both and has to be gradual allowing them to adapt. A bacterial infection would show brown mass or tissue swelling. When receded, you will not see mouth. They are not receptive to sudden changes. I leave mine in the same conditions even when making adjustments and get this growth and response:

Notice all the new babies to the left side:

 

[vetteguy53081]

Is this a Ai Prime light?

 

[marinesnow]

I second VetteGuy on the light. If you increased them in intensity and/or the length of time their on, try dialing it back and give it a day to see what happens.

 

[Stephen8169301]

Agreed with vette the thing now you dipped all those corals did you dip then place right back into tank? Did you have a separate container of clean seawater to get all the dip off then place back in tank?

 

[62518161]

Salinity 0.026???

 

[marinesnow]

I almost forgot this... If it's been a while since you changed your carbon, or if you haven't run carbon, changing it might help. I've exerienced corals expanding after a carbon change. And since my params were fine, I deduced the issue could have been alleopathy or cleaning chemicals sprayed in the house that might have drifted into the tank.

 

[Pass12345]

Is this a Ai Prime light?

Yes

 

[Goaway]

Whats causing my Euphilla to retract into the skeleton, and not come out fully. (Very Unhappy) Peramiters are GH 180, KH 40, PH6.0, NO2 0, NO3 20, Am 0, Temp 78, Salinity 0.026

Do you have a lfs who can test your water?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Yes

OK- Im familiar with this schedule- Try this:
White 18
Blue 70
purple 75
UV 75
Deep blue 85
green 5
Red 4

 

[MnFish1]

SO here we have parameters: GH 180, KH 40, PH6.0, NO2 0, NO3 20, Am 0, Temp 78, Salinity 0.026

"KH naturally decreases with time due to natural processes and coral growth , when its level is low this can contribute to a low pH. The ideal KH value for a marine aquarium is between 8 & 12 (3 – 5 meq/l)." His KH is '40'

pH of SIX. But we're talking (no offense about lighting?)... The parameters are not compatible chemically, and additionally, phosphorous is missing.
To the poster that said 'what if he was using strips' - I agree.. There is nothing to do here UNTIL you figure out your chemistries with an independent viable source.

IF the alkalinity is that high (doubt) - light can be playing a role.
IF the pH is that low (doubt) -there is a much bigger issue than the light.

I would recommend turning off the lights for a day or so - while you work it out with viable test kits. A day without lights will not hurt your corals PS - I don't mean total darkness - merely room light

 

[MnFish1]

PS - if you use a CO2 calculator - using his KH and pH - it means his CO2 levels are > 550 ppm...

"The fact is that in an average aquarium the concentration of CO2 ranges from 2 to 3ppm(part per million). This level is about 10 times smaller because in the nature the same concentration of carbon dioxide varies from 10 to 40 ppm. This comes from organic breakdown and underground CO2 deposits."

 

[MnFish1]

But if he is using test strips who knows what’s actually going on

Thanks you're correct that in a way, was my point - and I altered my response. These numbers are not compatible with life, and if they are 'correct' - it's no surprise that corals are not doing well. That said - I think there is a problem with testing - and before fiddling with lights, I would make sure the numbers posted are accurate - and I would also ask the OP to use 'units', ie. PPM, etc - so that everyone can understand what you're trying to say. Not wanting to sound harsh - but with a pH of 6 you have major major problems (my guess is that it's not correct - unless something was added as a mistake. Ditto the alkalinity. Hope this helps

 

[Pass12345]

Thanks you're correct that in a way, was my point - and I altered my response. These numbers are not compatible with life, and if they are 'correct' - it's no surprise that corals are not doing well. That said - I think there is a problem with testing - and before fiddling with lights, I would make sure the numbers posted are accurate - and I would also ask the OP to use 'units', ie. PPM, etc - so that everyone can understand what you're trying to say. Not wanting to sound harsh - but with a pH of 6 you have major major problems (my guess is that it's not correct - unless something was added as a mistake. Ditto the alkalinity. Hope this helps

Appreciate all the responses, this is my good friends tank and just trying to help out as best possible, without him loosing all his corals. Taking samples to LFS tomorrow and running it through the SPINtouchFF. Will keep everyone posted tomorrow with the correct numbers. Thank you all

 

[MERKEY]

Appreciate all the responses, this is my good friends tank and just trying to help out as best possible, without him loosing all his corals. Taking samples to LFS tomorrow and running it through the SPINtouchFF. Will keep everyone posted tomorrow with the correct numbers. Thank you all

Spin touches are not very accurate.

We have had one for years now and it shows very different numbers than hannah and trident.

Your friend will need to buy some tests kits to have at home so they can properly monitor their tank.

With all the OP has changed there is just Too much is going on to properly give advise.

 

[MnFish1]

Appreciate all the responses, this is my good friends tank and just trying to help out as best possible, without him loosing all his corals. Taking samples to LFS tomorrow and running it through the SPINtouchFF. Will keep everyone posted tomorrow with the correct numbers. Thank you all

I agree with the rest that the Test strips are likely not accurate enough for what you're doing. Did you dose anything. BTW - we could pretend the alkalinity is 40 dKH. (which as stated before is very close to impossible - but rather let's say it's 1). At higher alkalinity - higher light CAN cause problem - so - though I don't think changing lights is an emergency - if you. have recently changed your lighting significantly - you may want to change to a coral acclimation mode - or as mentioned before just turn them down to off or nearly off until you get your accurate test results back.