Need help dialing in Aqua UV sterilizer

[AJsTank]

Display is 400 gallons

Picked up an Aqua UV 57 watt. I'm about 60 days outside my cycle and will be doing dominant SPS. I need help with GPH for my UV. I can talk to 20 people including the manufacture and get 20 different answers. I even spoke with 2 different people at Aqua UV and I got 2 completely different answers. People are telling me it depends on turnover rate and SPS heavy are the biggest factors. I know what the manufacture says. I want to hear some other opinions though and hear what you guys are doing.

I have lots of flow in my display, so my turnover rate is about 6 times an hour.

Thanks

 

[frag!]

I know this is not what you want to hear but I was told that UV sterilizers are not worth their money. The sterilizer will only kill the bacteria that just happens to swim through it. They are not attracted to the UV in any way. You can buy the biggest sterilizer there is and still not take care of all the bacteria or parasites. There is a lot of skepticism towards these units. Good luck with what you decide.

 

[rworegon]

For a UV to be effective flow through the unit is the key. You can have a faster flow through and it will kill free floating algae but for it to be effective against protozoans your flow has to be much slower. It has to do with contact time with the UV light. While you will never be able to process all the flow through in your tank over time it can be of great help in reducing not only algae but also in reducing the likelihood of a parasitic infestation. Its a numbers game really. I run a 25watt on my 90 gal reef and feed it through a manifold off my return pump. I adjust the valve till the output is a slow, gentle flow. I have changed my qt and maintenance methods over time but I can say that since I have added the UV I haven't lost a single fish to ICH, velvet, or any other disease. I also don't have to clean the glass as often. Your results may vary.....

 

[NanaReefer]

IMO & from understanding all that I've read the standard home aquarium UV sterilizer is less then efficient. The water just doesn't run slow enough through them. Contact time is key! It's not a bug zapper! As for removing algae spoors, you'll remove more via regular WC's.
You'll read about how ICH seems to disappear and stay gone once they hooked up a UV but it's more likely the fish are happy (no stress) healthy and strong.
I'm not saying they don't work but just not enough to justify the cost in running one.

 

[AJsTank]

I just got off the phone with the Aqua UV guys again. They are telling me if this is a reef, to run it at 3,000 GPH. That is an insane amount of flow.

 

[rworegon]

I run a Emperor Aquatics smart uv 25 watt. They recommend 332 GPH for algae and bacteria, and 55 GPH for protozoa. 3,000 GPH is insane. As stated before, UV is all about contact time.

 

[AJsTank]

Honestly, I'm having a really hard time believing 3,000 GPH. He said minimum 2,1000 GPH, but ideal because it's a reef around 3,000 GPH. My return pumps aren't even pushing 3,000 GPH, I can't imagine pushing water that fast across the UV.

 

[FLSharkvictim]

By yourself, a Flow Valve and you will be good to go, no more guess mate! I picked THIS ONE up for around $80.00 bucks which included w/ Free shipping. I hard plumbed off my Ecotech Vertec M1 return pump and it works unbelievable. .